North Shore Gardener April 2008

Photo: B. Barger

April 2 : Maple tapping spout, Fig pruning

Maple tapping spout
Q: I enjoy reading your North Shore Gardener column every week in the Salem News. I was particularly delighted to see the question-and-answer about maple sugaring in today's column. One of my first jobs out of college was as a naturalist-educator at an outdoor/environmental education center run by the Greater Boston YMCA, back in the late '70s, and one of the most fun parts of the job was taking school kids maple sugaring. We tapped trees, split firewood, fueled the sap-boiling pans in the sugar shack, and everyone got to sample the wares on pancakes. Good memories.
I did want to point out one small goof in your answer to the person who asked about tapping backyard trees: The spout that is tapped into the maple tree is called a "spial," not a "spline." A spline is a strip of material used to hold something fast, such as the thin, tubular strip of plastic you wedge into the groove around a screen door, to hold the screen material in place.
The spial is tapped into place pointing at a slightly upward angle (I hope your reader knows that), not downward, so that it catches the sap as it is forced upward from the roots to the branches through osmotic pressure.
Not many people use or refer to spials anymore, as maple sugaring fades as a New England late-winter/early-spring pastime, but it's nice to know what they are and how to use them.
Anyway, my two-cents' worth. Your column is fun to read, and it's nice to still have people be excited about gardening in our overly technological society.
Very best wishes, and thank you for your wonderful columns. I love your kitty Christmas card drawing, too, and look forward to its annual publication in the Salem News.
Best, Cady Ann Goldfield
Salem, Mass.

A: Your lovely note set off a flurry of activity:
Webster's says a spial can be "a spy or scout".....so that’s not it…..
A spline is a "wood or metal strap" - or a tool used in the construction industry to draw an arc....that wasn’t it, either!
So I called our local Agway, which sells the device, and asked what they called the spout used to tap maple trees: "I call it a spout" was the answer!!
Then I called my very linguistically gifted editor-friend in NY - he says he calls it a spigot!
So you had the best research sources occupied this afternoon - and no two people came up with the same answer - So - what did have we learned today?
The correct word, it turns out, is spile - just in case the word ever comes up in Scrabble!!! What was the problem? Probably because it's a very regional word for the little hollow metal thingy through which the raw sap drips. I shall it call a spout in the future!
Your note was so interesting - such fond memories! I was born and raised in Northeastern Ohio, where a lot of maple syrup is harvested and have fond memories of visiting a sugar bush with my father each spring.
Thank you so much for your note - you made us all think!!

Fig pruning
Q: I have a Black Fig Tree about 3' high. It has been in the cellar dormant for the winter. Now it is starting to sprout leaves, so I put it in my sunroom. I've had it for about 3-5 years but have never had any figs. Should I prune off 2 or 3 small lower branches?
Thank you for any information you can offer.
Gerry

A: Please don't prune your fig tree now - or if you must do it, because of size constraints, do as little as possible, remembering that you will be hampering the next crop of figs. Fruit is produced on last year's terminal growth. You say that the small tree hasn't ever had figs - if you pruned last year, this could have been the problem.
But age might be the problem as well - a fig tree takes a few years before bearing the first crop!
Are you over-fertilizing the little tree? Too much nitrogen can cause beautiful leaves, but no fruit. Fertilize with a bloom booster in the spring, and an all –purpose fertilizer during mid-summer.

In this climate, you will probably get only one crop - our summer is too short to ripen the second crop promised by many growers!
Botanists think that figs are one of the first plants cultivated by man, which makes them older than wheat as a cultivated plant. Figs first came to California from the Mediterranean area in the 1700's - there are no figs that are native to the U.S.
It sounds like you have fig growing down to a science - you are correct in moving the plant indoors for the winter, although some of the hardy varieties can be left out for the winter if very well protected with tents of carpets and blankets and quilts or by tipping and burying the plant each fall.
Let me know how it goes - don't prune, and you might see some fruit this year in mid-summer.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Are you worried about the soil you’ll be gardening in this year?
Maybe it’s a bed that didn’t produce well in past years…-
Or are you planting a new garden in an area where there has never before been a garden?
Or maybe you’ve had a beautiful garden for years and just want to know how good your soil really is and the benefits you’ve reaped from all that compost you’ve been making and adding each year….

The U of Massachusetts can supply you with the information at a bargain price
Their basic soil test is $9.00 – and it includes a test for soil pH, buffer Ph, nutrient level and heavy metals (includes lead in this standard test…) You can buy a do-it-yourself test kit for less – but it won’t supply all the concrete suggestions for improvements that this soil test will. Also does tests on water and compost, as well as other specifics – ask them for costs and directions for samples!
Follow their directions for an accurate test and do the soil sampling this spring before adding fertilizer or compost or anything else to the area you’re testing. They will ask for accurate samples from different areas of the garden in order to supply accurate results – it only takes a few minutes of your time, a plastic bag and a trowel: it’s well worth it!

For soil testing information:
Send a self-addressed stamped envelope for instructions for taking and sending your sample to:
Soil Testing Lab,
West Experimental Station
682 North Pleasant Street
U of Massachusetts
Amherst, MA 01003-2082
Or online at www.umass.edu/soiltest
Do it now! Results take a couple of weeks at this busy time of the year.

April 9: Spring clean-out - Too soon?, Early shipment of perennials, Catmint, Using odd containers for planting

Spring clean-out - Too soon?
Q: Is it too soon to start raking out my perennial beds (they're loaded with leaves)? Will the new plants die if they get cold?

A; The decision to begin the spring clean- out in New England is a gambol every year, isn't it? April's usually not too early - and I took the plunge today. But even now, I'll watch every weather report every day! Do you remember the April Fool's Day storm of a few years ago when we got hit with a two-day storm that netted us 3 feet of snow in many areas? Actually, that storm produced more damage to trees and large shrubs that split and dropped with the weight of the snow. Little plants got buried in a blanket of snow for a few days but many survived. Bitter cold and windy weather is far worse than just snow. Most perennials aren't up and out of the ground enough to get bent over by snow - but bitter cold could hurt the tender shoots.
I think you'll be ok - but if we get a bitterly cold April with little snow cover to protect the plants, you could always cover favorite plants for a night or two, just to make sure.

Early shipment of perennials
Q: First of all - thank you for the wealth of information in all your articles.
I just need to know this: I have ordered many perennials for a new garden I am planting in the ground this year. (delphinium, balloon flower, bell flower...) They tell me my shipping date is late March. I have asked them to wait until mid-April to ship.
My question is...can I plant these even with the possibility of a frost in April? Will I loose them?

A: I think you can safely trust a reputable seller to ship your plants at a suitable time for planting. They generally ship in waves with their first shipments going to the lower zones where planting is early - then to us in colder New England.
You didn't mention where you live - but our last frost date in coastal MA is in late April - a little earlier inland. But this doesn't mean that you can't plant perennials - it certainly might not be as pleasant for the gardener to plant on a raw early April day, but the plants should be fine.

Catmint
Q: I have some catmint Walker’s Low that needs to be moved. I noticed the greens starting already....Is it too late to move them?

A: Your Walker's Low catmint was the perennial Plant Association's Plant of the Year this year - it is lovely repeat bloomer, especially if cut back after the first bloom - it's relatively disease-free and a sturdy plant for New England - you made a good choice! You can move them as soon as the ground is workable-and anytime thereafter, until late summer.

Using odd containers for planting
Q: I found some wonderful metal buckets and tubs at a flea market over the weekend – I’d like to plant in them. Can I plant directly in a metal container?

A: Sure – as long as you have drainage you can plant in almost anything you want- but it has to have drainage of some sort – if it doesn’t have it, you must make it:
Depending on value of container –
With a metal, you can punch holes for drainage the bottom
If there is no drain into the bottom, plants can be held above water by crushed stone, etc.
Set pots in the larger container – then manually drain by lifting pots of plants out of water, then tip and drain the container. By setting whole pots into a container, it’s also easier to add or change plants as season progresses-
As with any container planting, consider the weight, particularly if you need to move the container during the season - water weight plus container weight plus soil weight adds up fast!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
And while we’re on the subject of weight:
You may be considering new equipment this year – and if a watering can is high on your list, listen to this:
Your choice of volume is important as design: Water is heavy.
That cute swan-shaped plastic can with a three gallon capacity can weigh nearly 25 pounds. (Water weighs 8#.34 oz per gallon, to be exact! ) making many decorative cans very heavy to carry or manipulate!!!!
What to do? Concentrate on new faucets and hoses and nozzles you can drag around instead of a can you must carry.

April 16:Shelf life of fertilizer and toxic material disposal, Drainage in plastic/ceramic containers, Robins in winter

Shelf life of fertilizer and toxic material disposal
Q: How long do bags of fertilizers and weed preventatives and bug bombs last? I have lots of left-overs in my garage and cellar – and some of it isn’t just from last year! What should I keep and what should I toss?

A: The perfect chore for a rainy weekend! Certainly there is a shelf life for all of the products you’ve mentioned and more –unfortunately, they’re not all the same product - how well it has been stored? If they have been stored in a cool, dry place, most certainly can be used a second year. This should be a reminder in the future to date all of your packages and store properly in a dry place, inaccessible to animals and kids. It doesn’t always pay to buy large size packages of any supply if you’re not going to be able to use it or store it properly. Many products like fertilizers and weed preventatives should be stored in heavy plastic bags or in metal trash cans over the seasons – and always in a dry place.
But how do you responsibly dispose of the toxic stuff like pesticides that have been around for years?
Collect any broken containers and caked boxes of fertilizers and pesticides and things you know you won’t use this year:
Be responsible about disposing of toxic wastes – your city can help to make it easy. Most cities have a time and a place for toxic materials to be collected every spring or fall.
When you have your discards ready, the first thing to do is to call your city for the time and place of this year’s toxic waste disposal. These products should never be placed in your usual trash collection where they might find there way into the groundwater supply.
Don’t just throw toxic materials out with the trash and certainly don’t flush them down toilet or pour them down a storm drain, where they’ll go right back into the water supply – dispose of toxic materials responsibly …..
Call your local City Hall for collection places, dates and rules and fees, if any!
In most towns it’s done at a central location in the spring and fall:
A few sites:
Beverly, April 26th this year – they accept oil paints, pesticides, computers – call for a complete list!
Salem May 31 8 am-12 pm at Salem High School Salem is accepting oil paints, pesticides, old tires, but not latex , and are also taking computers and empty butane tanks and TV’s for a fee of $10 each.
Danvers plans to collect toxic waste in the fall – but call to be sure! They may reschedule.

IMPORTANT: You don’t have to live in these communities to use their yearly toxic waste disposals. Many cities will accept waste from other communities, for a small fee – it’s worth it for the peace of mind you’ll have knowing you’ve disposed of these toxins properly.

Drainage in plastic/ceramic containers
Q: A couple of weeks ago, you talked about holes in a metal container to use as a planter – but what about clay or ceramic?? I have some lovely glazed “imitation Chinese” pots and what about plastic? So much lighter than clay...
I also bought a large plastic window box/ pot by mail , got it home & discovered it has no drainage holes – how to punch holes in it? I don’t want to send it back.

A: If the ceramic containers aren’t antique or of great value – and you don’t mind taking a chance! – drainage holes can sometimes be carefully made by using a ceramic bit in the drill. If there is value, sentimental or dollar value, plant in a plastic pot and set it inside the drainless container, using a layer of stone in the pot to prevent rotting from standing water – no one will know the difference!
Plastics are a lot easier: A nail will split the plastic – so I use an electric glue gun without the glue stick – and gently melt a hole through the bottom of the plastic container …be very careful that dribbles of the melted plastic don’t fall onto any inflammable surfaces….
And if the container is metal, use a large nail or a screwdriver to punch a hole – support the surface well before you begin to work.

Robins in winter
Q: I enjoy your column in the Gloucester Daily Times. Often you reinforce something I already knew; equally often you teach me something new.
So it is with humility that I suggest you are off base in your analysis of winter sightings of robins. For as long as I've lived on the North Shore (54 years), I seem to remember seeing occasional flocks of robins in winter, especially in wooded swamps where I often walk for nature watching. I've noticed winter robins feeding on stag horn sumac fruits, high bush cranberry (a viburnum), and the invasive multiflora rose hips. I do not believe winter robins are a recent phenomenon.
Next time you have a bird (or any wildlife) question you might consider consulting bird experts such as Jim Berry of Ipswich, former head of ECOC (Essex County Ornithological Club, which you can Google) or Sue McGrath, current ECOC head, or the Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary in Topsfield (978-887-9264).
Keep up the good work, and good luck fielding the thorny questions!
M.H.
Essex MA

Q: Thank you for your informative and most thoughtful note!
As you said, there are occasional flocks of robins seen around the North Shore - but the
regular pattern is for a migration, however short, to at least a slightly warmer clime for the winter The letter was prompted, I think, by the readers fear that these poor birds wouldn't find enough to eat (our readers seem to be feeders!!)
The thought of global warming has also entered the world and minds of more and more conscientious people on the plant - thank heaven! -And the seemingly early arrival of these harbingers of spring can be one very visible sign – we don't need to look a thousand miles away and measure glacier/polar ice melts - we can see the effect of global warming by watching the wildlife and plants and the changes occurring in our very own backyards!
Thank you for your list of Audubon sources - I shall add them to my many
other sources-
And thank you for being an informed reader - I appreciate your time and
interest!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Chores for this weekend:
Turn on water faucets – and find the hoses……(now where did I put the nozzle?) If the nozzle is brass and badly corroded, it can often be saved by soaking overnight in household vinegar then scrubbing – it loosens the corrosion! -Should have done that last fall.
Get the mower serviced! Darn! I planned to do it last fall when they weren’t so busy – now there’s no room for procrastinating…. I have to do it now!
Get out the tools out of the cellar! Replace the rake I wore out last fall!
Get ready to grow! Spring is here!

April 23: Bunny juice , Transplanting holly bushes, Ladybugs – in the house?, More bugs! Red Lily beetles are back!

Bunny juice
Q: It’s only the beginning of the garden season, and already I’m being invaded by rabbits! I’m an animal lover but this is getting ridiculous! I plant a little something and the next day it’s gone. I’ve never had this problem before – I think it might have started when my neighbor with a dog moved away –
Now I don’t want to kill them – I just want them to go away (maybe to someone else’s garden!) -but I’ve tried everything is there anything I could try? I’m desperate – I figure in a few weeks there are going to be even more!!

A: Bunnies are cute – but not when they and their families mow down your garden. We certainly don’t want to kill them – but we want them to get the message there is nothing good to eat here – move on!
If it seems that all hope is lost this year and the rabbits are ruling the garden - think again! There is hope! While there's no guarantee to home-made repellants and their effectiveness, here's a rabbit deterrent that they say works - and is harmless to pets: Try some bunny juice!

How to make Bunny Juice:
Let 4 cloves of garlic and 1 oz of mineral oil soak for 24 hours.
In a separate container mix:
16 ounces of water,
1 tsp. fish emulsion
1 tbsp. of vegetable-based soap
(This recipe is not for human consumption!)

Combine all ingredients, straining the garlic cloves out and store in a glass container with a good seal. The mixture should last a few months. Use by mixing 2 tbsp of Bunny Juice with 1 pint of water and spray on all plants that bunnies tend to nibble. Repeat after rain or after watering foliage.

Transplanting holly bushes
Q: I was just wondering if you can transplant holly bushes. We have had these bushes in our yard for about 13-14 years. They are absolutely beautiful and full of berries on both. We have moved and would like to take them with us. I was wondering if that would be a good idea, or should we just leave them? If you could reply that would be great. thanks

A: YES, you can transplant your holly! It is a lot of work.
You didn't say when you needed to move the bushes or where you were moving to or from - or the size of the bushes, although I can assume that even the slow-growing holly would have become a sizable tree in 14 years. But is it really worth it? - If you have some strong help, it could be done in a long afternoon or over the weekend:

If possible, dig the new planting holes at your new home before you even start to dig up the bushes.
Take as much soil as you possible can with you.
Watch out for your eyes - holly is sharp! You might want to wrap the bushes gently with a light-weight blanket, both to save yourself from scratches and to protect the bushes from windburn during transport. If possible, transport them in a closed truck to avoid wind burning the plant - and drive slowly!
Re-plant as soon as possible and water well - and continue to watch their need for water all season. If you can't replant immediately, unwrap the bushes, place them in semi-shade, and continue to carefully water until you finish planting. (A few pieces of burlap or wet towels thrown over the root balls will help to contain the moisture.
After planting, mulch well to preserve moisture. Give them a dose of an acid/holly fertilizer after they’re established.
Prepare yourself for fewer berries for the next few seasons - but know that with good care, they will recuperate!
Good luck! -And let me know if you need further information.

Ladybugs – in the house?
Q: I started to do a little spring housecleaning – and what did I find on the window frames and then under the curtains but hundreds of lady bugs, all alive and all crawling around! I know you always say that they are one of the good bugs and valuable in the garden – but please, not in my house! How can I get them out of here?

A: These bugs are not new visitors – they came in last fall, and spent the winter hibernating in the drapes or in the wall! They gained access to your cozy home through a window or even through a crack in the wall, or even on something you brought inside – a lawn chair, some dry flowers…..Try to get rid of them without harming them - you know how valuable they are in the garden – they particularly love eating aphids!. Don’t even try to squash them – they’ll leave a nasty brown stain on the walls or hands and a strange, unpleasant smell, too.
Try opening the windows on a warm day - they usually will move out when they feel the warm, spring air. If that doesn't work, you can vacuum them up with a hand-vac.

Most important: After you complete the chore, remember to empty the vacuum bag or cup outdoors. If you are squeamish about handling the bugs, just take the bag outdoors and leave it in the sun for a few hours and the bugs will fly off.
No, it won't help at all if you sing the children's ditty, "Ladybug, ladybug, fly away home. Your house is on fire, your children will burn!" – You’ll still have to help them leave.

More bugs! Red Lily beetles are back!
Q: Great article in the Eagle Tribune! I have been searching for a couple of years for some way to treat/handle the Red Lily beetle and have not been successful. Are you aware of any possibilities?
Thank you, B. S.Salem, NH

A: I think this is the garden pest I hate the most - I haven't grown a true lily in my garden for at least 6 years - and I miss them! But we may have a solution. Try:
Infested plants can be sprayed with Bayer Provado Ultimate Bug Killer (Concentrate) or Provado Ultimate Bug Killer (Ready to Use). The larvae are more susceptible to insecticides than the adults....between the two, they are active from March until frost in the fall so it's a real chore to get ahead of them - and stay there-.
Inspect plants daily - and hand- pick any beetles or egg cases you find - then spray according to directions. Neem has also been found to be effective.
Thank you for your kind remarks - and thank you for reading the column. I appreciate it!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
I think it’s safe now!
You can put the snow shovel away and get out the garden shovel!
Put away the bucket of sand at the front steps – and take the bucket of sand out of the trunk.

Did you know?
After geraniums and poinsettias, tomato and pepper plants are the most often purchased plants in America.

You deserve a treat: Buy yourself a box of pansies or Johnny-Jump-Ups.
This week: Put them in a favorite basket, which you have lined with plastic, and use as a centerpiece…..
Next week: Plant them outside, where they’ll live for years!

April 30: Moss, Will vodka kill her aphids?, Succulent ID, Hydrangeas

Moss
Q: When looking at my garden I find a lot of it is covered with a fine green moss.
I don't want to scratch too much and dig up any plants which may not have sprouted yet.
Would you try to scrape it off now or wait for warmer weather? Is this a sign of soil needing treatment?

A: Moss is generally a sign of acid soil. Have you ever seen moss growing in your garden at this time of year before?
Sometimes acid rain - and that includes snow - that has fallen over the winter collects various pollutants from the atmosphere that acidify the soil - and in the early spring, you will have a flush of moss growing in the thin top layer of soil - this may disappear, as you suspected, when you cultivate the soil.
If not, it may be time to do a soil analysis this year - there are many garden plants that won't do their best if the soil is too acidic....and soil changes through the years.......

Will vodka kill her aphids?
Q: My domesticated bamboo has aphids. I don't have any rubbing alcohol, so I'm dabbing the leaves with Grey Goose Vodka. Is that ok?
Beth, UAE
A: Was your Grey Goose vodka Orange or Lemon? Whatever!
Grey Goose vodka is 80 proof or 40% alcohol - rubbing alcohol can be 90% alcohol - so any flavor of Grey Goose will certainly work to kill aphids.
But with all bug killers that contain alcohol, we strongly suggest applying, then rinsing thoroughly with water within 20 minutes of application, particularly if you need to use it on one of your new thin-leafed plants like the dracaena (Corn plant) or aglaoneme(Chinese evergreen) that were in your picture - or the bamboo. Do not use on fuzzy leafed plants, like African violets.
But what a waste of vodka! In the future, it might be just as effective to use a soap spray (then wash!) or a plain cold water rinse (put the plant in the shower, or do it in the kitchen sink with a hand sprayer.) Do either of these sprays repeatedly, with some water force -the soap and/or chill of the water will dislodge the pests.
In the meantime, CHEERS or SALUT - or whatever they say in the Emirates!

Succulent ID
Q: Morning, Barbara. My daughter brought me this succulent as a small single plant last fall. No tag, no name, no instructions. It wintered over in the greenhouse and evidently liked the light and temperature combo very much. It put out long stems which flopped over and became runners with hair roots on the ground side. It put forth the little 4-petaled yellow flowers in profusion and they have been in bloom continuously for over 3 weeks now!!!!
Other vertical stems have started and even though I have transplanted into this low flat dish, I fear the plant will soon outgrow this dish and need splitting. It looks like it would be perfect for our Rock Garden, but I don’t know if is winter hardy. Can you help ID the plant and define the normal environment? Thanks,
D.B., Marblehead, MA

A: You're going to love this!
The plant is one of a group of succulents, which are commonly called "Mother of Millions" - (or more conservatively by some sources, "Mother of Thousands or Hundreds"!!!)
The sunny greenhouse was ideal for the winter, although the plants are more commonly grown as a windowsill houseplant. Beware of mildew in ultra-high humidity locations. It's a fairly bug-free plant, although mealy bugs are sometimes a problem indoors.
It does propagate easily! One of the joys of the plant - and the source of its name - is the ability to grow millions (OK, hundreds of plants) all from the notches on the leaf -When I was a kid (decades ago!) I would buy a large leaf at the flower show each year. They were sold in a little plastic bag for about $1. The directions said it was a magical plant - just pin it to a curtain or lay it on the windowsill and the tiny plants would grow (but they never told you what to do with all the plants!)
No, you probably won't be able to grow it outdoors through a frigid New England winter: however you may have some luck growing it as an annual each spring/summer, then discarding it, and propagating more plants indoors the next winter. Or you could grow it in large, flat pots, (the roots are shallow) as a container plant and move them inside, too. Keep them watered but not soggy - and provide good air circulation to prevent mildew on foliage.

Hydrangeas
Q I have hydrangeas who get growth on the dead wood. My landscapers {?} broke
off the wood w/ no new growth on them. is this the right thing to do? I don't know what kind they are but they do have buds on last year’s wood, very brown, dry dead looking stalks]. They broke off any branches w/ no >buds. I don't think this is right, do you?
I think our landscaper should stick to cutting grass.

A: All hydrangeas have buds on the live wood at this time of the year - it's very
hard to determine this early whether they are flowers or foliage. If he broke off only non-budded, dry stems, he probably did no harm - but maybe you might ask him to do it next year in late summer - I think you'd feel better, although some stems might still die over the winter and need pruning!!
You didn't say what kind of hydrangeas you are growing - but most varieties set their buds the previous late summer/fall - and bloom on last year's wood. So any of last year's wood contains flower buds -and by pruning now, you will be sacrificing this year's flowers.
Your landscaper's may have broken off wood purposely - maybe it was completely
dead. Ask him - but this is not the time for deliberate pruning - do it right after the shrubs bloom...
And since the buds are already there on last years branches, keep your fingers crossed that unusually cold weather doesn't freeze the buds as it has in the past few previous winters.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
A reader recently admitted to me that she fooled all her neighbor’s last year by attaching some beautiful blue artificial hydrangeas to her frost-nipped, non-blooming bushes! I then had to admit to her that I., too, had given into artificial flowers on my agapanthus, which are supposed to bloom in pots on my front steps each May/June.
I called it a little “honest deception”! And I further confessed that I used to tie red balls on my neighbor’s tomato plants so he might get all excited when he looked out the window on an early June day and think he had the first tomato in the neighborhood!!
Who says that gardening is all work and no play?!?
Gardeners can have a sense of humor as well as green thumbs!!