North Shore Gardener July 2008

Photo: B. Barger

July 2: Rototilling, Lily of the Valley, Trumpet vine (Campsis) not blooming, Hydrangea needed new site, July dates to remember

Rototilling
Q: I really enjoy your column and usually pick up a gem or two each week. Thanks!
I'm just really beginning to be more attentive and interested in my yard and garden (after decades of amateurish mistakes). My question is about rototilling my 7' x 20' veggie patch. I had difficulty locating someone to do the work this year, and casting about among my acquaintances, I got two new thoughts (but no names for the job). One girlfriend (an excellent gardener) told me that rototilling has fallen out of favor since it destroys the layers of the soil structure. The other friend believes that it digs up lots of weed material. I did find someone who charged me far more money that the little plot is worth, but I chalk it up to cheap "therapy" in the end. I love to work my fingers into the soft rich dirt to plant my seedlings after the ground is tilled. But after paying the price this spring, I wonder if there's an effective and cheaper way to do this with some kind of hand tiller, or small motorized one. Your thoughts please?

A: A: The jury is still out on the subject of rototilling. Please realize in your reading and conversations that there is a big difference between rototilling and plowing! A good rototilling breaks up the soil surface and does not go very deep into the soil - plowing does.
Either way, it can leave a layer of hard soil, a layer below the soil which is constantly being rototilled or plowed, in which roots and worms and friendly microbes find it difficult to penetrate. So probably in a home garden the size of yours, rototilling - or even hoeing- is enough. True, rototilling a large garden is a lot easier on the back then doing it by hand, although many gardeners find the strain and vibrations of using a rototiller hard on the back and hip/thigh muscles as well. One of the best known garden-size rototiller is made by a company named Mantis....but for the number of times you will use the unit in a garden the size of yours it might not be practical, pricewise (although it does come with attachments, I think - and buying one, and sharing with a few neighboring gardener’s might be very practical! )

Lily of the Valley
Q: When best to transplant Lily-of-the-Valley? They are spreading a bit more than I want.

A: Lily of the Valley is best transplanted in the fall - you can do it in spring/summer, but since you’d be going into a hot dry period of weather then, the leaves will be unsightly. Transplant in the fall - you won't notice the browning yellowing leaves - and the following spring, the plants will re-emerge with new leaves and lots of flowers!
To keep them within boundaries, they will probably need transplanting and thinning every three-five years. Dig the new planting area and amend the soil with manure and compost - then you might want to add a barrier to help prevent spreading.

Trumpet vine (Campsis) not blooming
My question is about Trumpet Vines. Three years ago I planted two in a fully sun drenched area with trellises. One is orange/persimmon colored and the smaller is yellow. After that first year I've only seen sparse blossoms - but wildly happy vines and foliage. I prune early in the spring, only taking old non-viable wood. What can I do to encourage flowers? I'm afraid to fertilize lest I have a Jack and the Beanstalk creation!

A: It's probably too soon for your campsis vine to be blooming heavily - seed plants take about 5-7 years to bloom although plants started from cuttings might take only 2-3 years - Next year, don't prune excessively, although they do bloom on new growth - and be very careful not to use any high nitrogen fertilizers anywhere near the plant as these fertilizers produce a lot of heavy foliage growth but no flowers. (These fertilizers are found in all of the spring lawn "green-up" fertilizers!!) Campsis requires little fertilizer, lots of sun and a little water – and much patience! Then, it takes off ! (Did you know some species are considered as invasive??)

Hydrangea needed new site
Q: My poor hydrangea! It was given to me as an Easter flower many years ago and I put it in the ground after flowering was done (sunny, hot, dryish). It flowered a bit in subsequent years but recently - just abundant & happy foliage. I dug it up two weeks ago and moved it to a sun/shade area, fertilized, limed and mulched - watering regularly. It's looking pretty dead right now, but I'm sure I won't know for sure until next year. What's your thought about changing the environment? I thought hydrangeas liked full sun.
Thanks for your advice.

A: The changes you made to your hydrangea were perfect! The name comes from the Latin hydro = water ! Hydrangeas require lots of water! And partial sun, morning sun is preferable - strong, direct sun dries the plant out and will fade the flowers. Dead or diseased branches should be pruned out anytime – but major pruning should be done immediately after flowering each year.

July dates to remember
“Whenever July and August do not boil, September cannot fry”

Dog Days of summer begin July 3rd and last until Aug 11. This period is named for the dog star, Sirius, which is rising, which is said to add its heat to the sun, giving us the hot, hot days in July-
"If Dog Days are bright and clear, it indicates a happy year."

Onion skin's mighty thin,
Mild winter is coming in;
Onion skin very tough,
Coming winter will be rough.

The higher the clouds, the better the weather.

Bees swarming in July bring little more than a dry.

When the dog eats grass, it’s likely to rain.

July 3 Dog Days of summer begin

July 4 Independence Day - U.S.

July14 Bastille Day – France

July15 is St. Swithin's Day. If it rains today, there will be 40 days of rain to follow!

July 15 Stop pinching garden mums. A mum pinched after mid-July will not produce as many buds and flowers in the fall. Keep pinching poinsettias until mid-August for Christmas bloom.

July 19 Begins days of "Cornscateous air", a period of warm, damp air, ideal for growing corn - but dangerous for people with asthma and respiratory problems.

July 31, 1769 Hail fell in Situate, MA It was 12" deep and lasted on the ground for 30 hours.

July 9: Peony care, Lupine mold, Red spider, Growing New Guinea Impatiens

Peony care
Q: My peonies have come and gone - should I dead head them? When should I cut the stems and leaves back? It doesn't seem like they lasted very long!

A: Dead-head them if you have time - then allow all the foliage to grow all summer - water and fertilize as needed. . Cut the leaves back to about 6" after they are killed by frost and freeze - keep the bed clean and destroy any diseased foliage, do not compost. - and mulch to prevent frost heaving.

Yes, the season seemed much shorter to me, too - a few hot days made them, and many other favorites, to bloom through. I wish I had a magic wand that could make my favorites last longer - maybe all summer! First on the list would be peonies - then lilacs, iris, all the spring bulbs....
BB

Lupine mold
Q: I have several lupines that grew beautifully this year--healthy plants, lots of flowers. Now that the flowers are past, I'm noticing the stems and spent flowers are covered with white, fuzzy, almost mold looking on them. Also white spots on the leaves. Is this natural? If not, what can I do so that the plant is not harmed and will come up again next year? Thanks for any suggestions.

A:You've got powdery mildew, which is so common in our seaside area. It's usually first seen on the lilacs in the late spring, then on phlox and everything in-between as summer progresses.
Use a simple fungicide spray, a soap-based product, available at garden centers. Some gardeners swear by homemade concoctions which include baking soda products - in any case, you will have to spray repeatedly, especially after rain.
Keep the garden clean as the mildew spores do over-winter in the soil and in cool compost piles.
You can help by improving the air circulation around the plants - transplant overgrown bushes and shrubs nearby or prune well to promote plenty of air circulation and sunshine - and avoid watering late in the day when foliage won't have time to dry out. Water only at ground level to prevent wetting the foliage.
Note: Carefully removing the spent flower stalk may promote some smaller side shoots of flower on your lupines - it's worth the time and effort!

Red spider
Q: I live in a large brick apartment building. In late May/early June of every year, I have these tiny red spiders that come into my apartment from the outside stone windowsill. I believe that they are red spider mites, and I have some beautiful houseplants that I'm so fearful of losing.
These things seem to get everywhere in the house. I spray my plants with insecticidal soap, but the soap does dry out eventually. I have also sprayed it on the windowsills to deter them from coming in. So far, my plants are still doing beautifully. Are there any other methods that can keep these pests away? I'm so fearful of losing my beautiful indoor plants.
Thanks for your suggestions and help!
P.

A: You have excellent eyes! Spider mites are barely visible with the naked eye, about a 1mm - and they come in a rainbow of colors, not just red.
They winter-over in the ground and in tree bark and other crevasses (like bricks?) hatching as the weather gets warm - and attack both indoor and outdoor plants by sucking the juices from the leaves and stems. They are particularly active in hot, dry periods.

You seem to be doing everything right, so far! The "cures" include insecticidal soap sprays, sprayed thoroughly on every surface of the plant as a precaution - pay particular attention to the underside of leaves and points where stems meet. Horticultural oil or neem oil sprays are also effective - but since the spider eggs hatch in waves through any warm period, successive spraying every 10 days is necessary....otherwise, spiders hatch a new batch - and on and on we go!
I'm not sure what you mean that soap sprays "dry out" - they do dry and leave a somewhat protective soap film behind...but that’s harmless.
Don't overlook thoroughly spraying plants with plain, cold water - this will accomplish two things: First, it will dislodge insects and wash them away, And second, it will help to raise the humidity, which spiders don't like - but water spraying must be done often, too - and a sink or shower are the best places to do this if you can't haul the plants outside.
For the future: If you are sure of the spider’s entry point, you might have the management of your building do some spraying every spring.

Growing New Guinea Impatiens
Q: I use about 35 New Guinea impatiens in my yard and as you can imagine it’s becoming extremely expensive to purchase these plants. I would like to try and grow these plants myself but have no idea how to start. Do the plants I have now have seeds that I can save over the winter to start in the spring, or is there a place to purchase seeds? Any advice would be grateful. I enjoy my yard and garden but it’s becoming very expensive. I spent about $300 on flowers this year. I know the way to keep the cost down is to go with perennials but I love the colors of the annuals.
This is the 3rd time I have written to you and am very grateful for your advice.
Thank you, S.S.

A: There are two ways to propagate the New Guinea hybrids: vegetatively (by cuttings) or by seed - both are difficult with New Guinea hybrids, but not impossible. They are very different than standard impatiens.
Cuttings are taken about 10 weeks before you need them and rooted in pots in a warm place (about 70 degrees - which means you would have to over-winter some of your existing plant to have plants for cuttings next spring….
Seed germination rate is very poor. Because of the low germination, I wouldn't waste time trying to save seed, unless it is a very special plant/color - buy fresh seed every year in the late winter/early spring from a mail order catalog.
Seeds can take several weeks to germinate, and need bottom heat. Seed is available from Burpee and other seed companies – they seem to come with complete directions, but they only hint at how long it takes to sprout.
Plants are susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites (keep humidity high), scale and other nasty indoor pests - particularly when grown indoors - so watch new plants closely!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Use old houseplants in decorative pots
Having trouble finding any plants for a last minute porch or step pot? Or maybe you need a quick, inexpensive fix up because guests are arriving? Use old houseplants in outdoor pots for the summer – then discard!!!
This year I used my variegated ivy, some geraniums, and a few left-over herbs and impatiens – all too scraggly to stand alone, but great when grown in a decorative pot in a lush, tight group! Notice that these plants don’t all require quite the same light levels – I sort of average the needed light because I don’t expect the plants to last more than 3 months – then out they go with the first frost!

July 16: Azalea needs transplanting, Rhody sick, Lily of the Valley, Rose pests,Hardy hibiscus

Azalea needs transplanting
Q: I have a beautiful azalea bush that is being crowded out by other bushes. I want to move the bush to another area of my garden. When and how should I do this?
Thank you very much,
V.P.

A: Move the azalea now - or wait until early fall - just be sure there is time for the plant to get settled and grow new roots before winter begins - and don't transplant in very hot weather.
Dig and prepare your new planting hole before you begin moving the plant, adding plenty of compost and some peat. Then fill the hole with water! You may think you're going to make a muddy mess, but the azalea needs lots of water to survive the transplant.
Azaleas have a lot of small, surface roots, so you will want to dig carefully around the root mass, capturing as many as possible. Get help! The best way is to station two or three people around the root area - and gently lift the root mass all together and take to the new planting hole. Plant immediately - or if you must delay, cover with a tarp and keep it damp.
An easy way of moving any large plant is by dragging it on a tarp, rather than lifting it into a wheelbarrow or cart - far less back- breaking! My only caution will be if the tender roots are deeply entwined with the other shrubs in the area - then the job becomes less safe for the transplant...But this is not usually the case, and even a large azalea can be transplanted successfully.
Finish the job with another drink (for the azalea and you!) Mulch well to maintain moisture and cool the roots - then wait until next spring to admire your azalea!

Rhody sick
Q: I'm having a major issue with a rhody - we got nice flowers but look at the leaves; they look like they are burnt. Isn't it usually the other way around, no flowers but plenty of vegetation? Other than doing a soil test (which we probably won't do, money is tight) can you make any suggestions?

A: When did you plant the rhody? The rhody looks like it has both chlorosis and winter damage. Try giving the plant some protection next winter - and feeding it with an acid fertilizer, one meant for azaleas and rhodys. By any chance, was too much fertilizer added at planting time? This could badly burn the roots....the solution to this might be to replant in another area - or to dig the plant, change to soil in the planting hole, and replant.
Incidentally, simple soil testing need not be very expensive – there are kits available for under $15, which will do multiple tests.

Note: Reader wrote back this week to tell me that her neighbor had emptied his pool – and that some of the water had crept under their fence to the roots of the rhody. This would likely be a problem! – she is going to replant!

Lily of the Valley
Q: When best to transplant Lily-of-the-Valley? They are spreading a bit more than I want.

A: Lily of the Valley is best transplanted in the fall - you can do it in summer, but since you’d be going into a hot dry period of weather then, the leaves will be unsightly. Transplant in the fall – and you won't notice the browning and yellowing leaves. The following spring, the plants will re-emerge with new leaves and lots of flowers!
To keep them within boundaries, they will probably need transplanting and thinning every three-five years. Dig the new planting area and amend the soil with manure and compost, You might want to add a barrier to help prevent spreading: an edging such as stone or brick – or a lawn edging product which is hammered into to perimeter of the bed….and which would help to prevent future spreading.

Rose pests
Q: I hope you can help. I have two climbing roses (2 yrs old) which have been doing wonderfully. Recently however, I've noticed green inchworms (?) eating at the new growth and buds. There appear to be light green baby worms as well. I've also noticed these worms on a new rose bush planted on the other side of the garden. The worms only appear to be eating at the new buds.
I've sprayed with "Seven", but this hasn't seemed to help.
I am wondering if I need to cut off the new growth? I would hate to loose all the buds!
Have you received any similar inquiries? I look forward to your recommendation! Thank you. JEC

A: From your description, you are seeing inchworms on the long-awaited new growth. The little worms aren't dumb! Of course they eat the most tender, delicious growth, not the older wood!
Many gardeners choose to hand-pick and destroy the pests, or use neem oil or an insecticidal soap spray. Any of the commercial rose sprays that are listed for caterpillars will also work.
Get to it fast and you can avert any further damage. Some of the damaged buds may bloom - but will probably produce a deformed flower.
Encourage birds in your garden - they're the best caterpillar destroyers around - and far less harmful to garden ecology.
Continue to keep a watchful eye on the plants through the season.

Hardy hibiscus
Q: Thank you for your response to my recent email questions. I do have another question for you, and would appreciate your thoughts.
Having wintered in Florida in the past, one of the things I miss most is the beautiful flowering tropical plants, especially the prolific hibiscus bushes.
I have seen pictures of beautiful hibiscus bushes in mail order catalogs that are suppose to thrive in New England climates and winter over very well.
I am considering ordering a dozen or so to make a hedge to define the property line.

A: The hardy hibiscus you've seen in ads really IS hardy in our zone 5-6 and provides a dramatic splash of color to gardens in New England - the flowers are among the very largest of all perennials, some varieties being up to a foot across - and last only a day..
Growing 3 -5 feet tall and blooming with red, pink or white blooms in mid -summer till frost, they provide a wonderful taste of the tropics. The branches will die to the ground every year -
You probably want them to delineate a property line - and if the area is in full sun, to near full sun, they'd be lovely! They like extra moisture, so be prepared to water if the summer is dry. Mulch well both to protect roots in winter and to preserve moisture in the summer. The bushes won't form a dense hedge (maximum height is about 5 feet in some varieties), but you're only looking for delineation. Bushes are best pruned when necessary in the early spring - and make new flowering growth each year.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
HOT WATER WARNING!
Water from a garden hose that has been lying in the sun can be hot enough to scald your kids, or pets, --- or plants!! Run it for a few minutes and allow it to become cool before using it on a hot day.

July23: Egyptian onions, Fertilizer for plumeria, Broken orchid, Sunrise cactus

Egyptian onions
Q: I have these “things” that my Mom calls Egyptian Onions growing everywhere like weeds and I periodically treat them as such. They look like huge scallions. They are bulb-plants, they sprout clove-bulbs from the tops, then each clove puts out a twisty, alien-looking new "scallion" with a little clove bulb on the end of it. In their finish-thrall, they are so bizarre looking that I keep them around. Mom wants to know, what are they????

A: Your Mom is correct! They are called Egyptian onions or Egyptian Walking onions - and they do grow and “walk” or spread all over the place - and that’s putting it mildly! They're also called treetop onion, or winter onions - and they're hardy to Zone 3.
They’re called “walking” because of their strange habit of growing a strong center stalk from an onion-like bulb, then growing another cluster of onion bulbs on top of that stalk just like garlic -and when the stalk gets heavy enough, the bulb cluster bends to the ground and roots - and "walks" into another part of your garden. Keep them around as a garden oddity, if you wish - but they do need a leash and a good weeding tool!
They're eatable - the taste is stronger than most onions, so it doesn't take as many "bulbs" for flavoring - and the milder tasting greens can be used the same as green onions or scallions or strong chives in recipes. Because of their small size, they make great, easy pickled onions.
A perfect plant for the kids' garden, too - they'll be fascinated by the way they grow with an “onion tree” on top of the stem. They're easy to plant, like an onion set, and easily handled by little hands.

Fertilizer for plumeria
Q: I have a question for you. I have a few Plumeria plants that have in pots. I keep them on my front steps that receive sun from approximately 11:00AM until the sun sets in the afternoon/evening. I've had the plants for two years and have yet to have any flowers bloom, in fact, I have never even seen a bud. I usually feed them with Miracle Gro bi- weekly. Is there anything else I can do to promote flower growth?

A: Plumerias need the light and warmth you are giving them - but you are giving them the wrong type of fertilizer - they need a "super bloom", "bloom booster". type of fertilizer which has a high phosphorus content (look for a high middle number on the package, like Peter's Super Bloom 10-50-10 --MiracleGro makes a "bloom booster, too) -use every week or so during the growing season.....MiracleGro is fine general, all-purpose fertilizer, but is higher in N (nitrogen) which promotes too much lovely, leafy growth for a blooming plant.
Keep your plumeria plants somewhat dryer indoors during the winter - and don't panic if they lose all their leaves - they are succulent and the leaves will reappear next spring - and that's when you will begin the new higher phosphorus fertilizer regimen.
At two years, the plants might also be a bit young to bloom - some species take a couple of years for cuttings to root and finally flower..........

Broken orchid
Q: I have a beautiful orchid plant that had several flower buds on the tall stem that were ready to bloom. Well trying to move it a bit the stem broke a bit but not all the way through.so i took some clips and hoping that by securing it this way it would start to bloom these pretty flowers. I have noticed that the buds that were quite large seem like they are dying and falling off.
Is there anything I can do or should have done?

A: May I assume that this is a phalaenopsis orchid?
If so - the stem part with the buds is most certainly lost –
But SOMETIMES, when the stem is broken, if you allow the remaining stem to remain on the plant, in time, it will sprout another tiny stem or two with buds!
If you cut the stem off at the base of the plant, the plant won't bloom again until next year, on a new stem, as that is the plant's normal blooming cycle.
As a last resort, if the stem is broken through, cut it and put it in water and enjoy it for many days.......
Isn't it maddening and disappointing to have nurtured the plant, waited for the flowers, only to lose them in a simple accident!??! I know how you must feel! I've had cats eat the blooms, children pick the flowers, and pots fall from their hangers, etc. But they do grow back! Have patience! It's worth it!

Sunrise cactus
Q: I was given a sunrise cactus three years ago and it was in full bloom. It was beautiful! However, it hasn't bloomed since then. I have it on my dining room table and it gets morning sun. The plant itself is very green and healthy looking, but no buds. I have put it outdoors in the summer and will do so again this weekend. Any suggestions on how I can get it to bloom again? Thanks
A.P.

A: Your plant sounds very healthy! Now your Sunrise cactus, so named because the flowers open in the morning and close at night, isn't a desert cactus but rather one of the family of epiphytic jungle cactus, sometimes called holiday cactuses. This particular variety is often called an Easter cactus, because of the spring blooming period. And yes, it’s related to your Christmas cactus. Some sun year-round is desirable - but be very careful of direct, hot sun at any time of the year. They do love to be outside in the summer!
In the fall, like poinsettias, they require a period of cooler, dryer, longer days to bloom well. In October, reduce watering, keep the plant in a dark place from late afternoon to dawn, and replace in strong light each morning.( The cactus is going through a period of semi-dormancy then, so do not feed during this period..) You should have beautiful blooms in the spring!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
We’re thinking about CHRISTMAS!
Sing along with me:
“Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way.
Twenty weeks to grow poinsettias before it’s Christmas Day!”

Get busy!
The end of July marks the deadline for taking cuttings of those old poinsettias you’ve been nurturing all summer!
Cuttings taken before the end of July should bloom this year. Cut and root 4-5 inch cuttings. Keep them warm, watered and well fed – and you should have flowers for Christmas!
Don’t forget! Beginning eight weeks before the holidays, you’ll also need to give them 12-14 hours of total darkness every day for them to bloom! More about poinsettias later in the fall………

July 30: Clematis, Frost date to save tomatoes, Nitrile gloves for gardening, Mulching with grass clippings, Wood ashes, Black-eyed Susans

Clematis
Q: Thank you for your tip last year on how to get rid of earwigs with Raid. Works like a charm! Now my clematis is being eaten by some kind of worm. They eat the tenderest little leaves and then hide themselves along the stems or under a leave so they are hard to find. I picked off more than a dozen today and it is getting tiresome. Any idea how to get rid of the pests?
One more question: is it alright to pinch the clematis back so the runners don't go all over the place. I am always afraid to pinch off the part that produces the flowers, which last year were all at the end of the runners.
Thanks for your answer, I enjoy reading your column in the Tribune.
K.B.

A: You probably have the larva of winter moths eating the clematis- but who cares what they are? You need to get rid of them: Go to a garden center and get a rose spray that lists caterpillars on the label. Be sure to spray the underside of the leaves.
(Raid might also do it - but please test on a tender, new shoot before spraying the whole plant, as it's not sold for plant use.)
A careful, modest trim probably won't hurt - you didn't tell me what kind of clematis you grow and they're all slightly different in pruning time. Many bloom on old wood - but the trim will produce wood that will mature before winter - and bloom next year - so you might just be sacrificing a few blooms for this year.

Frost date to save tomatoes
Q: I have been trying to find out when we had our first frost last year without success. I am planning a trip for the fall but don't want to go before all my tomatoes are harvested. Do you know of a website that would give me that date?
A.C.

A: Here's a partial list of frost-dates for the area - Remember this is weather - not a science!
Some average First and Last Frost Dates for Massachusetts towns:
   .        City            Spring       Fall
            Boston            5/3         10/5
            Greenfield       5/26        9/16
            Haverhill         5/2        10/6
            Hyannis          5/26        9/25
            New Bedford 4/20      10/22
            Rochester       5/22        9/24
            Springfield      4/29        9/29
Source: "Climatography of the U.S.”
Based on statistics, there is a 10% chance that a frost will occur outside of the dates listed.

Whether or not a specific plant will be damaged depends on the type of plant, the maturity of the plant, the exact temperature and humidity of the air, the duration of the freezing temperatures, as well as many other variables.
Unfortunately, the chart can't show every town, so just try to average. Pick a town near you that is at similar elevation and near to the sea, if that's appropriate - then pray!
And remember that you have mini-climates within your own yard – you know the places that are sheltered by vegetation, warmed by stone walls, and flooded by overflowing gutters!
Of course, you could ask a friendly neighbor to pick any tomatoes remaining after you leave on your trip! Bon voyage! Have a good trip in the fall - don't worry about those tomatoes!

Nitrile gloves for gardening
Reader’s comments:
I find it difficult to weed my flower beds with regular gardening gloves because they are so clumsy. I have found some great gardening gloves in the first aid section of CVS! They are called "Nitrile Exam gloves." They are sturdier than regular exam gloves which I was using and I can wear them several times before they tear.

A: Aren't the new nitrile garden gloves great? They resist chemicals, abrasion and puncture -and are so flexible that you can do the most intricate weeding job! They're latex free and machine washable and dry quickly - (yes, you're supposed to wash your garden gloves!!)
And gloves available with a flocked lining or knit liner aren't clammy. Look for gloves that are about 4mm for proper strength and thickness for gardening. Cost: around $8.00 a pair for the nitrile coated stretch fabric glove at Gardener's Supply (www.gardens.com). There are also cheaper nitrile gloves which are sold to the medical profession - they are disposable, but they aren't lined.
Thank you for writing!

Mulching with grass clippings
Q: Is there any reason that grass clippings shouldn’t be used as mulch around trees, shrubs and/or flowers? Thanks for your comments.
D.A.W.

A:Yes, you can use them if they are insecticide, herbicide and weed and weed-seed free clippings! Grass mats down a lot as it dries - and can hold in too much heat. A better place for the grass clipping might be on the compost heap, where they would help accelerate much-needed heat necessary for composting.
How about using a mulching mower - and leaving a thin layer of nutritious clippings on the lawn every time you mow?

Wood ashes
Q: I’m shoveling/cleaning out a wood stove this weekend and I think I remember that you can use the ashes in the garden. Of course, my garden is already planted – can I still use them or should I save them for fall? (Probably won’t since I really want to get rid of them)

A: Wood ashes from fireplaces and wood stoves can be stored and applied to some plants or added in small amounts to compost. Be sure they’re wood ashes, not from coal or newspapers.
Wood ash will make the growing medium more alkaline so you must take care not to overdo it. You should really do a soil test first – and again, a few months after application.
Some plants such as succulents, asters, clematis, hellebores, lilacs, lilies, roses and some bulbs will respond to a small amount applied directly to the soil in the spring. Plants requiring an acidic soil (azalea, blueberry, holly, rhododendron, etc.) should never receive ash amendments. The soil changes takes time! Apply ashes in the winter and the snow will water them into the roots – but whatever the season, water ashes in well after applying to prevent blowing – and protect your eyes when handling ashes.
And yes! They can be saved! Assuming they’re completely cold, store in a metal trash
can with a tight lid.

Black-eyed Susans
Q: I do have a question for you. My son gave me some plants for my birthday. One was a box with some Black-eyed Susans, which I love. There were no specific instructions in the box. When I took them out they just look like two big roots. Can you help me?
V.C.

A: I really need more information: you seem unsure that they are Black-eyed Susan roots.
If they are, they are a member of the rudbeckia family, the most common wildflower in the US. Very hardy plants, they can be planted immediately in a sunny location. Amend the soil if necessary and water well after planting - and allow plenty of space for them to grow in the coming years - they will spread, and also re-seed easily. -Then sit back and watch them grow! What a nice birthday present!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Mosquito control – it’s up to you!
Mosquito control is up to you! Don’t leave stagnant water around - Trust me: ANY standing water breeds mosquitoes!

Empty saucers under plants every few days...
Unclog gutters that are holding water and wet leaves….
Change water in birdbaths – it’s healthier for the birds, too. Use Mosquito Dunks (available at garden centers) in birdbaths) – this product prevents mosquito breeding – but doesn’t hurt the birds or pets that drink there….
Change pet’s water dishes daily, of course….
Empty watering cans…
Be on the lookout around the yard for water standing in old tires, in cans the garbage men might leave behind, even small amounts of water standing on plastic bags or tarps – empty every bit of standing water and you’ll help to reduce the mosquito population.