North Shore Gardener November 2008

Photo: F. Cunningham

Nov 5: Peonies, Growing Tomatoes indoors, Burning Bush/Invasive Plant, Preparing lavender plants for winter, Carefree Garden

Peonies
Q: What good news I have for you this time! The powdery mildew problem on my peonies that I wrote you about showed up late in the summer season. It was only on one plant and just on the bottom leaves. I was on the ball this week and remembered in time to transplant them, so I moved them to a more open air area.

A: Glad you were so successful! The peonies will get bigger and better with the passing years if you maintain a good planting bed with plenty of sun.

Growing Tomatoes indoors
Q: I really would like to grow a tomato plant in a pot indoors this winter. It was a last minute thought – I guess I could get seed – but where can I get tomato plant this late in the year?

A: You probably can’t get a tomato plant now – but unless there has been a hard, killing frost, you can take a cutting of one you grew this summer (or beg one from your neighbor) Tomato cuttings will root easily.
As a last resort, try calling around to local nurseries – sometimes nurseries with greenhouses have a few left- over potted patio tomato plants for sale.
Unless you have grow-lights – or an extremely sunny, south window, don’t expect much fruit. If you get a flower, be prepared to hand pollinate it with a tiny paintbrush - indoors there are no natural pollinators.
Watch out for all of the normal indoor plant pests, especially white fly, spider mite and mealy bugs. Does all this work sound discouraging just for a beautiful, ripe, juicy tomato or two? You’re right on! If you want to be able to harvest a touch of something fresh and green from your sunny windowsill this winter, you’d be better off growing some herbs!

Burning Bush/Invasive Plant
Your column in the Salem Evening News is well organized and provides good information for the North Shore.   The first question in today's paper was about burning bushes - pruning time.
You may not know that Burning Bush (Euonymous alata) is considered an Invasive Shrub/plant in Massachusetts (and in most of New England - Connecticut was the first NE state to ban the sale of Burning Bush).
Many Mass. residents will always choose to keep their shrubs, even with the declaration of invasiveness and still want pruning information. As a member of garden clubs (National Garden Clubs and Garden Club of America) > we are teaching our members (and their communities) about invasives.
1. Do not plant invasive plants.
2. Remove invasive plants from your property
3. Educate others about alternates to invasives.
Since you have a very large audience it would be helpful if you added when asked a question about invasive plants to include information about removing and replacing also. Burning Bush is a major problem in the woodlands. Highbush blueberries (beautiful fall leaves) and Oak leaf hydrangea are two options for fall color that might be used in certain areas of a landscape to replace burning bush. For
some good information about invasives and alternatives check out the New England Wildflower Society website. (www.newfs.org) On the site go to 'Protect', then go to "Invasive Plants".   On the Invasive Plant page you can get information on - controlling invasives, the state invasives list and other good information.
On the MA state prohibited plant list Burning Bush could not be sold after July 1, 2006.   There is even a propagation ban that begins January 1, 2009.

Cathy Felton
Horticulture and Native Plant Chairman
National Garden Clubs, Inc.

A: Thank you for your kind and thoughtful note!
We are well aware that the burning bush is on the invasive plant list for the state - and elsewhere! - And have mentioned it in previous columns, but thank you for the reminder! I needed that reminder - and so do or readers, so I shall certainly do it in later columns - it's about time to remind readers about bittersweet as well, isn't it?!?
I wish we had the space to print the entire list! I remember when loostrife was about the only invasive plant that people were worried about......that and bittersweet...
I doubt that neither you nor I can convince anyone to remove a burning bush from their property - but, hopefully, more won't be bought or propagated!
Again, thank you for the reminder - and we're delighted to have you as a reader.

Preparing lavender plants for winter
Q: Last year was the first year I have been successful at growing lavender and keeping it over the winter. It was wrapped in burlap without any trimming at all. This spring I unwrapped it and let it grow. It more than doubled in size and it still had all the first year growth. The new growth grew on the old, gray, dead looking growth.
The plant was a very big and bushy, sprawling, mass with ugly lower stems. I had lots and lots of flowers to enjoy and dry for the winter.
All that said my question is should I cut this year's growth off before winter, in the spring, or when? How do I know with other perennials? Thank you very much.
J., Beverly

A: There are many different kinds of lavender - it sound like yours are doing well!
Winter protection is a plus in our climate, as is planting in a protected area, such as away from winds, or next to a stone wall.
Pruning is partially done with your harvesting of the flower stalks - in our climate, with severe winters, it is best to prune any further in the very early spring, as soon as the new growth shows at the base of the plant. Whatever you do, avoid totally cutting back the plant into the old wood - leave some new growth, however small. Try to leave about 10 inches - new shoots will grow back in the spring,
Lavender takes about three years to reach full size - and unfortunately is a short-lived herb. And some winter loss is unavoidable. Be prepared - and start a few plants that you could use to fill in, particularly if you are growing a hedge or outlining an area where the symmetry would be broken by an occasional missing plant! Seed is somewhat difficult to start, taking weeks and additional warmth to germinate, so look for smaller inexpensive plants to add to your collection and grow them to the size you need.
You asked about other perennials: Most perennials can be cut down after a frost or freeze kills the stems - but if you could be more specific, I will try to give you a better answer! Some gardeners like to let dried stalks like astilbe, remain as winter interest and even food for birds through the winter.....

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Compost the Halloween pumpkin!
You know that Halloween pumpkin that the kids carved last month as they were getting ready for Halloween? It’s starting to sag – and rot! Maybe you can convince the kids that it’s time for it to go – right into the compost pile! They can have the fun of smashing it – right in the compost pile! And maybe next year, one of the forgotten seeds will sprout a pumpkin vine…

Nov 12: Iris, Daffs for doorstep pots in spring, Growing grass in Salem

Iris
Q: We have iris that did not bloom this spring. This month we have an abundance of buds which we have cut and put in water and they are blooming.
Is this unusual? Maybe they are confused?
L.

A: You know there are some re-blooming iris which do bloom a second time later in the summer - but if this isn't the case, I think yours are confused!
Hopefully they will get back "on cycle" as the frost puts them to rest for the year - but if they don't have time to gain at least a little strength before the freeze, next spring's bloom may be sparse. Mulch them well after the ground freezes.
Do let me know what happens - yours is the first letter I've had on this subject in the 25 years I've been writing this column!!

Daffs for doorstep pots in spring
Q: Last spring I saw a lovely arrangement on a doorstep on Chestnut Street in Salem. Someone had planted daffodil bulbs toward the back of a pot, and when it bloomed in the spring, they added pansies in front of them in the same pot.
In an attempt to produce the same effect, I've planted about ten bulbs in a container. My plan is to wait until a good frost, then put the container in my unheated, unattached garage to winter over, put the container out in early spring, and hope they bloom. I'd add the pansies later.
Do you think this will work? Or do you have any suggestions to better the odds that the daffodils will bloom?
Thank you.
E.L.

A: You are a bit early to have planted these bulbs - remember we may still have some very balmy days in October and even in early November....and a container's temperature is far more sensitive than in-ground planting would have been.
Cold treating bulbs has to be done at constantly cold temperatures - can you really guarantee that the temperature will remain at 45 degrees for a minimum of 12 weeks in your garage or cellar? A professional grower chills the bulbs in a heat, humidity and temperature-controlled warehouse......keep your garage area dark until two-inch sprouts appear - and don't forget to occasionally water the daffs.
Choose a variety of daffodil for your planter that is not too tall and they will flop less! Keep the bulbs safe from rodents.
Or you could make things a lot simpler and fool-proof:
Simply buy pre-chilled bulbs from a nursery in the spring....and leave the chilling worries to someone else! The bulbs arrive ready to plant and will bloom in about 14 days after planting them. Then you’d just add the pansies.
The arraignment sounds lovely - please send us a picture in the spring!

Growing grass in Salem
Q: I was wondering if you could offer some advice. My girlfriend owns a condo and we have a terrible time keeping the grass in the backyard looking good. The total lawn area is about 20 ft by 20 ft. between the squirrels digging it up and burying their nuts, and the lawn dying off...it is become a pain in the neck. The lawn is partly shady and has some moss on the western side.
Last fall, I rented a cheapo manual aerator, added a 100lb rock to it and aerated the entire lawn. Then I overseeded the lawn with Scotts Premium Bluegrass seed. This past spring, I fertilized and put down the crabgrass preventer, trimmed back the branches on the trees (to increase light) and the lawn looked great until about July. Then it slowly died off to the point where not much was left. This was perplexing to me because we had so much rain this summer. My only thought is perhaps the lawn is not getting enough sunlight and dies off in the summer because the leaves on the trees block out too much light?
So, earlier in the week....I cut back all of the forsythia (on the western side of the yard) from 9ft high to about 5 ft high. Then today, I bought about (25) 40lb bags of topsoil and 2 bales of peatmoss, raked all of the dead grass out, spread the topsoil and peat moss over the entire lawn, sprinkled with lime, sprinkled some starter fertilizer down and then sprinkled about 5lbs of Vigoro Fescue blend grass seed. I was told by a friend that Fescue would be better for a shady backyard.
What else can I do to get this lawn established and looking good for good? Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you. E.M., Salem, MA

A: It’s a little late to start grass seed now – wait till early spring. Although fall is a great time to reseed lawns, remember that reseeding, for best results, must be done at least 8 weeks before a freeze in order to establish sufficient roots to take the grass through the winter.
You're on the right track! But maybe you should have done a soil test first - particularly if grass hasn't grown well in this area for some time and you have some moss
Even without a soil test (kits are available at garden centers) -you were correct in guessing from the moss that in that area that your soil is acid.....and lime is the easy cure - but exactly how acid is the soil? And how much lime do you need for the correction? (Lime takes a few months to work its way into the soil and make changes....)
The lack of sunlight is certainly a factor - but there are some shade mix grasses which are programmed to do well in shade. If there is an extreme difference between sun and shade areas, you might have to seed areas differently.
Your soil prep sounds sufficient: many gardeners erroneously believe that they can just throw grass seed on the ground and it will grow! But as you've noted, tilling, raking, and prepping the area, as well as watering and fertilizing are all part of the formula.

Your choice of a blue grass and a fescue should be fine in the long run - but both are cool weather grasses that brown in hot weather, and then rejuvenate in fall. And both types require regular watering - certainly we had plenty of water during late July and early August - but then hot, dry periods - you'll have to be prepared to help Mother Nature out during the dry periods with weekly (or more!) watering with these varieties of seed....
Crabgrass preventers can be harmful to grass seeds - they form a barrier to seed germination which can last several seasons. Next year, a spot-weed application to weeds before the weather is in the 90's would be a better way of preventing weeds - that and a good lawn!! Strong grass smothers weeds.
Wait until spring to see if you get some recovery - I think you are going to be pleasantly surprised!
By the way, you have pruned the forsythia at the wrong time of the year! Normally, to preserve bloom, they are pruned immediately after flowering - I know you had no choice, but expect far less bloom next spring - then it will recover!!
And those squirrels can be deterred - note I didn't say "prevented" - with a product like “ShakeAway for Small Critters”, available at garden centers - you just sprinkle the granules around after every few rains...
Hang in there until spring!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Much of the summer garden has been destroyed by frost – but somehow, the weeds keep growing! Keep weeding along with your raking!
Why bother with weeding now you might say?? Eventually, the weeds are going to die! Sure! The weeds will - but not the weed seeds!
Did you know that a single weed plant can produce over 100,000 seeds per year – and the seeds can remain viable for over 40 years? Think of the work you’ll be saving by pulling just one more weed this fall!

Nov 19: Drying butterfly bush flower spikes, Bleeding Heart, Miniature roses, Flowerless witch hazel, Transplanting shrubs

Drying butterfly bush flower spikes
Q: I say thanks every week for your column...as if you read my mind for this week's gardening dilemma. When should I trim the out of control butterfly bush, beautiful this year but wild like an overgrown haircut. Have you ever tried drying the spikes?
P.I.

A: Butterfly bushes can be pruned anytime - and benefit from pruning, since they bloom on new wood. But in this climate, you're better off pruning in the late spring after the last frost - Remember that these bushes can be very late to show growth each spring. A plus in leaving the pruning till spring is that the dead branches mark the spot where the bush is growing, which you might miss since they are so late in showing spring growth.
This year, wait till spring and do a minimum of pruning - I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
This fall, you might mulch gently around the root base, although this shouldn't be necessary, unless we have an unusually cold winter - you really can't kill a butterfly bush! (In some parts of the Northwest, they are considered invasive!!)

I tried air-drying years the flower spikes of a butterfly years ago - they are fragile and lose color when dried, even when air dried at the peak of color (too late for that this year!)- but they do make a good filler for other dried flowers and seed pods. Try it! You have nothing to lose!
And try spraying them with a little clear preservative sold at craft stores for setting chalk and charcoal drawings - or if you have an old can of the old fashion lacquer hairspray, that works too! (the AquaNet brand comes to mind - our mother's used it! - it seems to "glue" the tiny flowers to the stems for a while! Imagine what lacquer sprays were doing to your hair!!)

Bleeding Heart
Q: I would like to know if there are any special steps I should take to prepare Bleeding Heart plants for the winter. They seem to have gotten quite tall and "leggy" this year.

A: Just cut them down as the foliage dies -
Divide them about every 4-5 years to prevent overcrowding - transplanting is best done in the spring, because the plant has plenty of growing energy then. Mulch the growing area after the ground freezes to preserve moisture, but keep mulch away from the very center of the plant to avoid rot.
-Don't know what caused unusual "legginess" but suspect you may be growing the Bleeding Heart in too much shade! They like a moist area with partial, filtered sun, not dense shade but not hot afternoon sun either.

Miniature roses
Q: Regarding my miniature rose bushes...........I transplanted them from a pot to the ground this summer and they have grown well. Should they be pruned before winter?
Thanks..........I enjoy your column!
H.

A: Prune the mini-roses in late winter/very early spring if they need it - carefully cut out any dead or diseased wood anytime-
Mulch after a hard freeze as you would mulch any rose bush over the winter, keeping mulch away from the center stems to avoid rot....

Flowerless witch hazel
Q: I planted a witch hazel shrub in April 2005 (hamamelis vernalis, "Arnold's Promise"):
It grows very well and is pretty tall and spreading gracefully. However, I've never seen a late winter yellow flower on it yet! Can you advise me why it might not flower, and how to help it do so?
Thank you,
C.W.

A: Most witch hazels will not bloom until the bush is at least five-six years old. Since your plant seems to be doing well, I think it's just a matter of waiting a few more years - the age of the bush probably was not clear to you when you bought the bush, but most that are sold in gallon containers are about three years old.
If you can remember the vender, you might want to call and ask them how old the shrubs were they are selling - otherwise, just be patient another year or two! It will be worth the wait! They are splendid, hearty shrubs that bloom when little else is blooming in the late fall and very early spring - a nice end to the old gardening year - or an even nicer beginning to a new gardening year!

Transplanting shrubs
Q: I would like to move two mountain laurels and two PJM rhododendrons? Is the fall or spring best? If spring is best, do I move them after they flower or in very early spring?
Thank you.
N.J.

A: Transplant almost any time - but avoid hot weather. In our climate, early spring, before growth appears is preferable to late fall, when it’s too cold for tiny feeder roots to regrow - early fall would have been fine, but that time has past. Bloom time doesn't seem to matter if the transplant is done carefully. I'm sure you know that both plants have a large network of tiny, shallow roots which must be preserved - this is the key to transplanting success.

Prepare the planting hole before you begin to dig the transplants: amend the soil with compost and peat and water well even before you plant. Then dig the shrubs lifting as many of the small feeder roots as you can! The root mass that you dig won't be especially deep, but probably will be as wide as the shrub - it's accomplished best with several people with shovels digging a shallow trench around the root mass - then lifting all together. If the root mass is too heavy to carry, try lifting it to a tarp and then dragging it to the planting area.
Move quickly - don't allow the roots to dry out even a little! Water again thoroughly when planting is finished - and through the following season or two.
Mulch well with acid mulch such as pine needles or wood chips. And protect from drying winds over the winter using burlap as a shield, removing it promptly in very early spring.
Do expect some set-back the first season or two after transplanting, no matter how careful Incidentally, your PJM ‘s were named after Peter J. Mezitt, founder of Weston Nurseries, Massachusetts and are an excellent choice for our growing area.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
It’s getting close to that time of the year when you can finally stop cutting the lawn. Keep cutting till growth stops or snow falls, whichever comes first! Then say goodbye – and good riddance until spring!
Rake up the last leaves – then make the last cut with a mower set about 2” high. If you leave the grass too long over the winter, the grass will mat and mold will form under snow. If you cut too short and scalp it, you’ll damage the feeder roots which grass needs to keep it alive over the winter.

Nov 26: Perennials in fall, Drying flowers/ weeds, Coleus indoors, Coffee grounds, Fall clean-up

Perennials in fall
Q: A neighbor and I were discussing the question of cutting back perennials in the late fall. Are there general rules? The tags that come with new plants give great directions for watering and fertilizing, but say nothing about preparing the plant for winter.
This conversation started because I have some new Montauk daisies this year which are still in beautiful bloom right now. One neighbor said they should be cut back to a third; another neighbor has already cut his down to the ground. That's one species, but there are many others to wonder about.
M.B., Beverly

A: In general, perennials are cut down when the frost has killed the foliage.
But for the majority of plants, this is more for the sake of the gardener and to tidy up the garden for the winter. Many perennials can be pruned in the late winter or early spring as the garden is springing back to life - I'd have to have the names of specific plants in order to be more accurate with advice. I'm puzzled - why would your neighbors want to cut his Montauk daisies down before they’ve finished blooming?
Montauk daisies grow best when changes are made while the plant is dormant: - cut them back or transplant in early winter, after several hard frosts. They will retain some leaves through the winter if cutting is left till spring.
Next year, to increase blooms, pinch them like 'mums, until mid-July - then let them grow! This will give you more flowers with less "flopping"!
Let me know about the specific other perennials so I can give you better information.

Drying flowers/ weeds
Q: I miss my garden already! If I wanted to dry a few flowers instead of buying them this winter, can I still do it? Is there anything worth drying so late in the season?

A: You should have begun earlier! BUT – there are still some materials that you can dry. They aren’t the colorful flowers you could have picked and dried in mid-summer – but there are still some grasses and weed and seed pods on the roadside that are fun, useful and attractive. And dried flowers are free!
Cut plant materials responsibly- Cut, don’t pull! Stay away from beach grasses which are protected by law – they are needed to control erosion. And always check with owner of property before you cut anything.
Next year, begin to dry plant materials earlier in the summer – they will keep you company through the long winter ahead.

Coleus indoors
Q: I brought in a lovely magenta and lime green coleus well over a month ago. While outside it flourished and was quite beautiful. However since bringing it in, despite being in a sunny window, the leaves are no long, flat and full, they are still colorful, but lean downward and even curl under a bit in places. I can't give it more sun than it has now as it has sun a good part of the day. And I'm certain that it has enough water.
Can you give me any suggestions?

A: There have been some mighty cold nights in the last month - did the plant get nipped by cold weather - under 45 degrees - before you brought it in?
You may be giving the coleus too much sun - bright, filtered sun is enough, or just some morning sun - they should grow well in normal illumination.
Are you fertilizing? Fertilize with an all-purpose houseplant food at half strength. every few weeks...
The curled leaves make it sound like there might be some sort of a bug. Watch for bugs! They will tend to congregate on the underside of the leaf. Even if the plant was perfectly healthy this summer, bugs could have "hitched a ride" on the plant as you brought in into the warm house – and thrived. Wash the underside of the leaves with cool water - and use a soap spray. Re-spray at one-week intervals so you get every bug - and every egg they lay. Two of the most common bugs are spider mites, and mealy bugs.
Water coleus well - but don't let the plant stand in water in the saucer for more than a few minutes!
Do consider taking cuttings from this plant as we go through the late winter. Coleus that you grow from cuttings will be ready by the time we've had the last frost in May, and fill up the windowsill with glorious color in the meantime.

Coffee grounds
Q: Hello, enjoy your column, it mentioned the overuse of coffee grounds in the garden, but did not have the information I need.
Would appreciate your advise, I was told to put coffee grounds on some plants, mainly hydrangeas, I have been putting them on other plants too, is this too much?
Thank you, B.R.

A: Coffee grounds are used on acid-loving plants like blue hydrangeas, azaleas, rhodys, evergreens, roses and woodland plants.
Overuse occurs mostly because gardeners throw heaps of them around their plants - more is not better!! And we have to remember that we live in New England, where the soil tends to be acid, anyway - so do soil tests periodically to avoid overuse. When coffee grounds are applied and not spread or mixed into the soil, they cause the same problems as wet leaves: the ground starts to mold! They are great mixed into the compost pile, and increase acidity and boost nitrogen and add texture, particularly to clay soil.
Did you know that coffee grounds also seem to repel slugs and ants? And mixed with orange peels, they will repel cats from the garden

Fall clean-up
Q: Is it too early to begin cleaning up perennials such as cone flower that have gone by, but still have green foliage? Also, I planted a Butterfly Bush in August and it has done well. Should I treat it a as a perennial and cut it down to the ground before winter, or as a shrub to be pruned in the spring?
Thanks,
P.A., Jr.

A: Cut coneflower down after foliage dies - or leave it, as you wish.
The seed-filled pods are winter interest in the garden - and provide food, particularly for finches and other songbirds until you do your spring clean-up.
Butterfly bushes can be pruned anytime - and benefit from pruning, since they bloom on new wood. But in this climate, you're better off pruning in the late spring after the last frost - remember that these bushes can be very late to show growth each spring.
A real plus in leaving the pruning till spring is that the dead branches will mark the spot where the bush is growing- which you might miss since the plant is very late in showing new growth every spring.
This fall, you might mulch gently around the base of this new planting, although this shouldn't be necessary, unless we have an unusually cold winter - you really can't kill a butterfly bush! (In the Northwest, they are considered invasive!!)

End of Season dirt…………………………………………………………
It’s Thanksgiving weekend – but you have some things to do before you head into dinner:

Drain outdoor water pipes and hoses. Self drain faucets don’t stay ice free if a hose is still attached – detach hose and put aside if you wish to continue to use the faucet into freezing weather to clean gutters and tools. Otherwise: drain hoses and put them away in a frost-free storage place.

Clean tools – wash off mud and grit now! It’s much easier to clean tools in the fall and have them ready to go in the spring…