North Shore Gardener April 2007

Photo: BBarger

April 4, 2007: Lilacs and lichen, Kids gardening, Pea planting!

Lilacs and lichen
Q : I have a large lovely lilac bush in front of my house that is covered in moss – or is it lichen? Last year, after the spring bloom I cut back the old flower tops as I usually do. Into the summer the leaves started to yellow and droop. No amount of mulching or care has seemed to do anything. Could this mossy growth be from so much rain over the past spring and summer? I'm afraid this situation will compromise my spring lilac show this year. The lilac is on the south side of the house, and yes it gets lots of sun and usually has many blooms.

A: You may be right – is this lichen light blue-green and almost papery-thin looking? I was surprised to hear about this problem in such a sunny spot. Lilacs do well only with direct sun - and moss doesn't usually live in sunny, southern exposure. Come spring this year, the lichen will appear to disappear with the shade the leaves provide but once the leaves drop again in the fall, the lichen will become visible again as they need the sunlight. In the meantime, it won’t hurt the lilacs. You can expect your usual showing of flowers this year unless there is another problem – you can’t blame the lichen!

Kids’ gardens this year
Q: I have always had a garden with vegetables and flowers and I plan to start gardening on a small scale with my kids this year and they are all excited about it and have been reading catalogs since Christmas. What would be the best things for them to plant this first year? One is just pre-school age; the other is in grade school.

A: Good for you for stimulating their interest in gardening – it will teach them many life skills about responsibility, as well as some very basic botany. And reading the catalogs on a cold day can be entertaining. … But remember that at this age, attention span is short. Keep labor low, and make it interesting! Don’t enforce your strict ideas on them – let the choice of plants be mostly their decision. Whatever they grow (and it should be their choice!) make it colorful. If you’re growing vegetables, make them simple eatable favorites – at least this first year!!! No sense in growing cabbage and broccoli, and spinach, no matter how healthy it is, if the kids won’t eat it! Grow cabbage in your own garden if you want it, not in theirs! Some of the more colorful, easy to grow veggies include the small patio or cherry tomatoes, new colors in radishes and carrots, favorites like pole beans, which can be grown up bamboo stakes and make a bean teepee – a plaything as well as an eatable garden! Bush beans are easy to grow, easy-to- harvest, even for a pre-schooler. Lettuce always makes a bit hit. Flowers should be “pickable” – kids can learn to share - and take a tiny bouquet to an elderly neighbor or to a sick friend. And flowers can be spectacular! Nothing beats a sunflower – and seeds can be saved and harvested for the birds, if they don’t get them first!! Invest in some kid-size tools – basics like a shovel, rake, and trowel and watering can – and teach kids how to use and care for their equipment. Choose low- labor plants to keep kids’ interest high! But be assured you’ll have to do some “helping” as the beach season and little league take over and the kids disappear from the garden! But don’t give up! When the crops appear, they’ll be back with all their friends to taste the product of their garden labors and harvest their bounty!

Some veggie suggestions for kids, all but one from seed:
Leaf lettuce – best in cool weather
Watermelon Radish – quick and delicious, and surprise! It’s a white radish, watermelon pink in the middle!
“Toy Choy” - A dwarf Chinese cabbage (bok choy) with a cute name- – 30 days from seed - Healthy Oriental greens, eaten cooked or raw – they’re sure to fascinate the young gardener!
Pumpkins – spectacular! - if there is room! Ditto squash and gourds…but it takes some room for the large vines…some can be trellised to save space.
Bush beans – Blue Lake is an old favorite, and yields well – and it grow at kid level for harvesting...
Tomatoes – seeds are too difficult this first year, so buy a box of a named variety from a nursery – bite-size patio tomatoes are ideal for kids to pick and eat.

Some flower suggestions for kids: from seed or plants:
Sunflowers – bigger than most kids!
Marigolds – giant and dwarf – good for cutting all summer. Dwarfs make a fine border, and marigolds seem to keep many common bugs away from your garden.
Zinnias –great for cutting!
New Wave petunias – ever blooming and low to the ground they’ll survive summer heat – available in many colors.

Pea planting
Q: I’ve always planted peas early and they always do better when it’s cool – but how early can they safely go in the ground?

A: At last!! We’re ready for the first seeds to go into the ground! It’s almost time to plant the peas – both garden peas and sweet peas!
My marker for pea planting is Patriot’s Day-April16th this year. Patriot’s Day is celebrated on the third Monday in April since 1969 and commemorates the battle of Lexington and Concord in 1775 – but for many gardeners, its pea-planting day!
We wait to plant most seeds until the soil warms up a bit and has become less saturated – seeds sewn in cold wet soil are far more likely to rot, which is why applying bottom heat ( with a heating mat or setting the seed flat on top of a radiator) sprouts seeds faster. With all seed planting, the goal is to allow seeds to germinate as quickly as possible in a warm environment.
But peas are different! With peas, sprouting can occur at ground temperatures as low as 40 degrees! What if it snows after they sprout? A short clover of snow doesn’t seem to hurt - and besides, snow never lasts long in mid-April.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
We are thinking of lilies this week – Easter lilies right now, and other Oriental/Asiatic lilies in pots or as cut flowers - they’ll appear in your garden later this season. But please remember that all of these bulb-grown lilies – not the root grown day lilies – are deadly to cats when eaten, even if eaten in small amounts! If eaten, the poisons attack the cat’s kidneys – and in just hours, the cat gets very sick and will die a very painful death from kidney failure unless you get fast medical intervention. ! Don’t wait! Time is of the essence if you want the animal to live. If you find a shredded flower or leaf from a lily and suspect your cat has taken just a nibble, take the cat AND the leaf to the vet for identification purposes – immediately. It’s a real emergency.

April 11: Avocados, Bulb, Lawn overseeding, Mandevillia and passion flower

Overseeding a lawn
Q: Hello, well spring is here but the snow is still falling. I was going to put down grass seed for my lawn last fall but was told it was too late in the season. I think you call it over seeding not sure on that, my question when is it the best time to do the over seeding for the lawn this spring? Thank you for your time. Ken

A: Overseeding is not meant to create a new lawn - it's just a simple fix for an exiting lawn without digging up the whole area. You can do it as soon as you can see the ground - and the ground isn't frozen. Rake the lawn are thoroughly, pressing hard with the rake to remove thatch and winter's accumulation of twigs and leaves - and loosen some of the top layer of soil. Then rake in a small amount of topsoil and composted material.....and seed according to package directions. (I like to seed a little heavier than directed.) Cover very lightly with soil, and gently tamp to firm - and keep damp! Hopefully, in spring and fall, Mother Nature will do most of the watering for you - rain or snow is fine....otherwise, get out the hose! If birds feast on your new seed, be prepared to use some fluttering ribbons or scare devices - once seed germinates you won't be bothered by birds feasting on seed . Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer when you overseed - then, about a month after grass seed germinates, apply a quick-release nitrogen fertilizer. Spring isn't the very best time for overseeding lawns. Fall is the preferred time, when the new grass won't have to compete with crabgrass, which is killed off by autumn frosts. You might want to postpone overseeding until fall, unless your lawn really needs it -

Bulbs in pots up and growing
Q. Last Fall I potted up some bulbs to winter over in the garage. The crocus are well out of the earth and the hyacinths are about half way. The daffs are just poking their noses out. My question is whether or not I can put the pot out on a south facing deck, covering the pot at night, or is it too soon. P.C...

A: You'd probably enjoy these cold -chilled bulbs more if you brought them into the house in a cool place, maybe near a drafty windowsill - and watched them bloom indoors. Otherwise, wait 'til this cold spell moderates and temps are reliably above freezing. ....bitter cold will shorten the bloom time, but shouldn't permanently bother the bulbs. Expose gradually to brilliant light - then there will be no need to cover them. Water carefully - maybe daily- Plant outside after they finished blooming and allow the foliage to mature. It may take a year or two for them to bloom well again.

Mandevillia and passion flower
Q: Hi: I am here again with my mandevilla and passion flower. This is the third year I have tried to save them, and so far I 'm doing OK. I thought I lost the passion flower so I cut it back to the dirt and was waiting to put it outside in the mulch when all of a sudden it started sprouting again. I just have one question on the mandevilla. It is swirling up my wall but seems leggy, should I cut it back and feed it or just let it go. Thanks for all your information; I never miss your column. Rigen32

A: Mandevilla (formerly called "diplodenia"), blooms on the new growth. If you want to produce a bushier plant, trim the tips of the new growth to produce side shoots - pruning too late in the year will only make it slower to bloom. The more new growth, the more flowers.
Thank you for the reminder! Mine mandevilla needs pruning, too - it's crawling up the wall!
The passion flower sounds fine - most gardeners prune them quite hard in the fall when they bring them indoors.
Welcome to spring - at least I think it's supposed to be spring!

Avocados
Q: I no longer have access to land outside so am turning into an "apartment gardener" and have a couple of avocado plants that have split and are ready to be planted. The light here in my new apartment is incredible. Will they grow? Thank you very much and keep writing! Sincerely, D.K. Peabody, MA

A: I'm going to let you in on a secret: I'm crazy about avocados. Your avocado pits will make wonderful houseplants! I have one that's now about 12 ft. tall - and it finally has grown into the roof of my greenhouse. Don’t let this scare you! This plant is more than a decade old! This winter, I finally had to face cutting it back - not just a few inches, but chopping a whopping two feet off the top! I needed a neighbor’s pole pruner to do it. It was very traumatic - and I nearly cried! I know it won't regain its handsome shape for a few seasons – but there was no choice: Prune it, or find it a new home! Now as we go into spring, it is putting out new green leaves on every branch. Promise me - if you can ever get yours to bloom and have fruit, be sure to write me. In over 50 years of gardening, I’ve never been successful in producing avocado fruit – just glorious leaves, and finally, a tree big enough to hang plants in! All this fun, a great houseplant for you or the kids’ at very little cost – about $1.25, the cost of one fresh avocado at the supermarket.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Bargain alert - pansies
Bargain alert - one of the least expensive and beautiful centerpieces to make NOW for tables at a shower or any other festive occasion – pansies – and they’re available now! Buy a box of Johnny-Jump-Ups or pansies...less than four dollars a box. Transplant the whole damp box to your favorite decorative low dish or a basket lined with plastic wrap or foil – something waterproof. Add a bit of moss around the edges and stick in a few additional small fresh flowers at the last minute if you want…..and you’ll have an instant centerpiece. The biggest plus – if you take care of them for the few days indoors, you’ll have the plants to transplant into the garden.....

April 18, 2007: Potted gift bulbs, Rose of Sharon, Rose pruning, It works for her: A reader’s idea

Potted bulbs
Q: Greetings, Green Guru ! I know I read info on this Q recently in your ever-informative column, but I didn't have the plants at the time and now I do. The Q: hyacinth plants bloomed in the pots for spring. The blooms are fading fast, of course. What do I do w/them now? (Or any spring blooming potted flower - tulips, daffy's, etc). Keep them watered? Keep them in natural light? Keep them outside? Can I plant them outside later and will they come back? When should I plant them and where? How deep? I know to let the foliage die naturally before cutting it away, just as with outdoor bulb flowers, but that's about all I know ! The only experience I have w/ bulbs is finding a surprise tulip here or there that a squirrel has stolen from a neighbor and graced me with hahaha !!! So many Questions ! Please advise, oh wise one, and thank you! Best regards, E

A: If the hyacinths were forced in a pot of soil, they can be planted outside - so can the daffs - tulips seem to be more "iffy" but are worth trying if you have the room. The difference is the soil, where they can get some nutrients - bulbs grown and forced in water or sand usually aren't worth the time and effort - compost them. You are right about growing the foliage of any bulb until it drops off - but save yourself some work and plant the potted bulbs with the yellowing foliage without disturbing the soil as soon as the soil is workable - and let it mature there. Plant at regular depth for the type of bulb: in general, 4-6”. Plant in a spot when there is full sun in early spring - remember most bulbs are blooming long before enough leaves are on the tree to produce shade, so there is probably more choice of planting spots. Feed the bulbs a bit of bone meal or bulb fertilizer when planting - and hope and pray! They may not bloom well next spring - but should come back in following years - hyacinths are certainly worth the wait!

Rose of Sharon
Q: I am hoping that you can help me out with a big problem with my Rose Of Sharon bush. I have had it for many years and every summer it gets loads of buds all over it but they never open. It is planted in a semi shaded area of the yard. Could it be that I planted it at the wrong time of the year which was late summer? I have contacted several garden centers and they have no idea what the problem could be. Thanks for your help in advance. DMM

A: Q: Rose of Sharon loves a full sun location - could this be the problem? And it must have a lot of water - The buds are formed on the new wood, so pruning is done in the very early spring to preserve flowers. They are notoriously late in leafing out - many a Rose of Sharon tree has been removed for dead, when it just needed patience! The fact that you say it is "loaded with buds" makes me believe that the plant is otherwise healthy - You might try moving the plant to a sunnier location - then it should bloom for you all during the late summer and into the fall, when not much else is blooming. If you choose to move it, do it in the spring, as soon as you can before it breaks dormancy - or wait until fall, and do it right after the bush/tree goes into dormancy, i.e. when it loses its leaves for the winter. .....they're lovely, relatively bug-free and carefree shrubs.

Rose pruning
Q: When can I trim my roses? They’re climbers - My concern is what appear to be brown dead branches that have sprouts growing on them. Should I cut these branches off even though they show signs of growing?

A: Prune roses in the early spring - like right now! - before roses break dormancy, usually in March, but it certainly depends on outguessing the weather, because if the weather turns very cold again, new shoots could freeze. Diseased wood can be removed at any time, of course. In your case, I would want to wait and see how much of the new growth I could salvage. Unless the branches are diseased, I would wait until later in the season to prune- or even wait till next spring! Those canes may just have been wind-burned in spots during that bitterly cold, windy week we had, with no snow cover. Fasten the canes to the fence or trellis as usual - and wait and see! You could always prune next spring.

It works for her: a reader’s idea
Wax-like deposits on ficus
Dear Barbara,
Today, I happen to be reading your column in the Eagle-Tribune from March 14th. Someone was asking how to get rid of small, wax-like deposits on ficus tree leaves. I had that same problem for years on my ficus tree. One day I was listening to a radio show on plants and the host addressed this issue. The white wax-like "things" (I believe they are some type of bug.) come out when the plant is not getting enough water. I began watering more and have not had the problem since. Once when I went on vacation they came back, but as soon as I began watering they went away. N.F.

A: I've never heard of this curing a ficus tree - if you ever read something which authenticates it, I'd love to hear- Thank you for your nice, informative note! And thank you for reading the column! We have so many knowledgeable gardeners out there!
BB

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Begin removing winter mulch which covered and protected your plants all winter - but do it gradually, Do it by hand, if you can –– it’s far easier on the tiny new shoots which are pushing out of the earth. And what an opportunity it is to sit down in your garden and communicate with your plants! Or use a bamboo rake, much gentler than a steel rake – but do it very gently! Don’t try to do it all in one day – let the new sprouts adjust to the cool spring temperatures, which could turn cold overnight. But the fresh air, sunshine and spring rains will do us all so much good.

April 25, 2007: Gardenia, Orchid, Rhody pruning, Allium- bulbs found

More bulbs found – oops!
Q: Anything I can do about some allium bulbs I just found hiding away?

A: Lucky you! Since your bulbs are in the onion family - and depending on where they were "lost" over the winter storage, they might be OK.
Check them over - squeeze them gently, like an onion, and check for mildew and rot - then plant the good ones as soon as ground becomes workable. Try it! You have nothing to lose and a lot to gain!

Orchid plant
Q: Thank you very much for your weekly gardening tips. They are very interesting and I find myself looking forward to your publication. I am e-mailing to ask you what you suggest for an orchid that is not producing blossoms. The plant is approx 1 1/2 yrs old. Once the original flowers passed, the leaves continued to flourish but nothing else. It's a two stemmed yellow phalaenopsis. I received it in July of ‘05 so I was expecting it to blossom again this past summer. It's still in the original pot...a small plastic container (approx 5 - 6 " dia). I live on Cape Ann but I'd be happy to take it to someone elsewhere if you feel they can help me with it. I'm hoping you can guide me. I'm also interested in perhaps having someone check the pot. Could you make a suggestion? M.N.T.

A: You're doing something right - the plant sounds very healthy. As you may know, orchids tend to bloom seasonally, and are not very pretty between blooming seasons - but we tolerate this for the beauty of the flowers! So let's make it bloom! Is it in the original plastic grower's pot or in clay? Maybe there is a plastic tag still in the pot identifying the species. Save it! Do you have good sun exposure at your windows - from what direction? Phalaenopsis need good like but not hot sunlight – a south exposure is fine, but filter the sunlight with a sheer curtain. They tolerate normal room temperatures, at least 70 degrees, all winter in the days – but need a drop to 60-65 degrees at night to bloom well – sometimes a drop to 60 degrees for a few weeks will stimulate blooming. Add humidity if your house is dry (most are in winter.) Is there somewhere where you can put plants outdoors during the summer? They love spending the summer under a tree, in well-dappled shade, and being sprayed with a hose every day or two. Fertilize every other watering, at half strength, except when they’re resting and not growing. Where do you live? I have several places to suggest for repotting if needed – north of Boston, Chapman’s in Beverly Farms will do the repotting job for under $10. plus the price of a new pot, if you want one – but you are welcome to bring along your own favorite pot, which they can use, if suitable. With this care, you’ll probably have flowers by next fall.

Rhody pruning
Q: Love your column. You have helped us in the past. A new problem: My rhododendron has grown too large for the front of my house. How and when do I prune ? Can they be cut to the ground? What do you suggest? B. G.

A: Rhodys are very slow growing and are valued for their size – but sometimes, they just get too big for the area (a fact to remember if you are planting a new rhody this spring! Plant it with at least a decade of growth in mind) If pruning is absolutely necessary, do it right after they bloom – and do it cautiously! What you prune now will take years to regrow! If a very large amount of pruning is needed, do it over two-three years. Begin the first year by pruning just a few of the larger, older branches from the center – and pinch back the other branches after they bloom. The next year, do a few more….and so on. You may want to continue this pruning program for many years. Once the rhody is in shape, you can keep it in shape with gently trims each year. Rhodys can be cut to the ground in one fell swoop – but it will take many years for the shrub to recover and bloom – it’s a very drastic undertaking. Is there any chance that there is anyone who might want to move the plant? If the plant is as large as I think it might be, you might want to have it done professionally, either to another spot on your property, or to a friend’s home. Moving large rhodys isn’t cheap – but neither is buying a huge rhody (when you can find them).

Gardenia
Q: Last summer I received two gardenia plants from Florida. They made it through the winter but produced no flowers buds, only aphids – but a bath in soap water said good bye to them. Do I dare look forward to flowers this summer? I did not use fertilizer all winter. Greatly enjoy your articles in the Salem News. Sincerely, J.M.C. Salem, MA

A: You have fought half the battle – and won! Gardenias are somewhat difficult to keep in the house over the winter due to the dry air in our over-heated homes – but you’ve done it! Now – increase humidity indoors by using a humidifier or pans of water near the plant. Gradually give the plants maximum sunlight indoors – by June, you will probably be able to put them outside, but don’t do it too soon! A sudden change in temperature could cause bud drop! And you’ve got to feed gardenias regularly with an acid base fertilizer – Mir-Acid is the one most commonly used and is available at garden shops – and you can use any extra outside on your azaleas and rhodys, so the package won’t be wasted. Start feeding the gardenia now!

Your soap bath cures for aphids was correct – but keep watching for the pests. If you missed even just two or three of the tiny bugs, they will multiply again very rapidly. Next summer, you’ll have far less trouble with bugs outdoors – and a spray with cold water will keep most at bay, as well as giving the necessary humidity. But keep the soap bath handy, just in case.

Whether or not you’ll see flowers this summer is somewhat t doubtful. Were the plants sold to you in Florida as garden plants – or as gift plants? Gift plants are forced for early spring/holiday bloom – but garden plants normally bloom in June/July on buds set the previous fall. Your plants may have set buds – but if not, they may have to go through one more year of your excellent care before they bloom again – it will be well worth it!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Now that it’s almost May – are you wondering when you can plant? Want to know how to forecast the weather? Gardeners have depended on these old May sayings and adages for generations:
“A cold May is kindly, and fills the barn finely…”

“When oak leaves are the size of a mouse’s ear, it’s time to plant corn and other hot weather veggies.”

“Plant corn when the apple blossoms fall”

“If a thunderstorm occurs before seven in the morning in April or May
We’ll have a wet summer!”

And we all know, “April showers bring May flowers!” It should be a beautiful May!