North Shore Gardener August 2007

Mullein

Photo: Elaine M. Kent

August 1, 2007: Lilies eaten by Squirrels, Orchids and Gas, Rose Transplanting

Rose transplanting
Q: I hope you can help me with my rose bush. It is in front of a fence and you cannot see it much any more where a shrub is in front of it. What I need is to know is the best time to transplant it and where it has grown so tall should I cut it back when I move it. Thank you - Janice.

A: Technically, you could transplant a rose just about anytime the ground is not frozen - but the best time would be in the fall or early spring. Plants transplanted in the summer need a lot of extra care - like watering daily. Whenever you choose to transplant, pruning will make it easier on you - and the plant. The bush could be cut back as much as 50%, depending on the type of rose - if you can bear to do it! About a week before transplanting, begin watering the rose daily. Root prune the bush by driving a shovel in a ring around the plant about two feet from the center stem.....this will make transplanting it easier to handle. The new site should be in full sun. Prepare the new planting hole ahead of time with added composted material. On the day of the transplant, dig as deeply as you can around and under the bush - the fewer roots you have to clip, the better it will transplant. If possible, do this with a friend - it's much easier for two people to work, one on either side of the rose to pry it lose - plan on digging down about two feet. Lift the entire root ball and move it into the new place, and set it in the hole, filling in with more of the composted soil, and watering well. Leave a shallow ditch around the planting area so that when you water, the water will soak into the root and not just run off. Expect the plant to wilt until the roots begin to get established in their new home. The following spring, expect new growth - and flowers! Let me know how it goes!

Orchids – and gas leak!
Q: I have a question for you. I have had orchids in my home for many years and have very good luck growing them and bringing them back if you know what I mean. Recently I had many plants in bloom in an area where they have always been and within 2 or 3 days the blossoms on all 5 plants died. I have had a very faint smell of gas in my kitchen even thought the plants are in the living room and wonder if that could be the problem. Thank you for any advice you can give me. K.C., Marblehead

This letter scared me! I immediately called this reader to tell her to call the gas company – gas leaks are so dangerous, (and we need every reader we can get!)

A: Many plants are sensitive to natural gas, some to a greater degree than others.... (Ferns are among the most sensitive.) In Victorian days when our homes were lit by gas, many plants wouldn't survive in the parlor. But there are other sources of pollutants that can bother your plants: Was there any construction done in the house this year? Chemicals from adhesives used to install tile and countertops, acid baths used to resurface bathtubs, some building materials, as well as some paints and solvents can all be the culprits - and they don't do your family any good to breathe them, either. But to be absolutely sure about the gas smell, please have your local gas company check your home for leakage - they have the proper meters and gauges to do it and it could save more than just your orchids!

Follow-up:

The next day, we called the reader back – and were delighted to hear that she had called the gas company. They determined that there was a sulphur buildup at the stove -but didn’t think that would hurt the orchids….I disagreed….but more importantly, I knew we wouldn’t lose a reader!

Squirrels eating Lilies
Q: I recently planted some Asiatic lilies in my back yard. The next day I witnessed a squirrel attacking each plant leaving all the buds on the ground before they bloomed. Is there anything I can do to protect this from happening in the future? Also in the fall, should the stems be cut down to the ground or will they turn brown and dry out on their own? Any ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, J.W., Salem

A: I assume from your note that you bought fully grown lilies and transplanted them into your garden. There are some very good repellants on the market that will do the job, if applied and reapplied next year. They are not harmful and they will merely scare the critters away, they won’t hurt them. You might also try applying them this year, so the squirrels don’t get in the habit of making your garden their luncheon buffet stop. “ShakeAway for Small Critters” is one of the best known critter deterrents, and is available at garden centers. Fox urine is also a good animal deterrent. The stems of your lilies should be left to dry on the plant until it browns and they can easily and gently be raked away and composted – that may be after frost comes. Since the squirrels have left you with part of the stem this year, leave the stem on the plant until it browns, too – the bulbs need this growing time to replenish energy to make flowers for the coming season.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Some “cool” news!
Makes you cool to think about it! Mass Horticultural has announced its theme for 2008 Boston Flower Show. The dates are March 8 – 16, 2008 and the theme is “Rhapsody in Green”. Maybe this is the year for you to enter the amateur plant division. The plant entered must have been in your possession as of mid December 07 to be eligible for the’08 show. Think what you could do if you started to groom a plant now – you have 5 months to work at it! Wouldn’t you be so proud if you came home with a ribbon this year? There are lots of classes, lots of types of plants – why not try this year? Booklet of class descriptions and rules will be available later this month on line at www.masshort.org or call Ms. J. Courtney at 617-933-4900, Ex 4982 for further information.

August 8, 2007: Crabapple Pruning, Morning Glories , Blackspot on Roses

Blackspot on roses
Q: I have some rose bushes that up until late last summer had been doing beautifully for several years. In late summer, black discolorations began appearing on the leaves, causing them to drop. This spring, the roses started off just fine, but after a month of new growth, the discolorations began to appear on the leaves once again. A friend told me this was "black spot", which was a fungus. I purchased a product that is applied every six weeks, and works systemically through the plant. I made an application to all the roses two weeks ago. However, two of the rose bushes have now lost all of their leaves, and two other plants now seem to be infected. Will the plants that have lost all their leaves come back next spring, or are they gone for good? Thanks for your input! P.

A: Blackspot is a very familiar fungus to every gardener who has ever grown roses. First a black spot appears, usually on the leaf or stem - later a yellow ring forms around the spot and eventually, the leaf falls. Conditions that promote blackspot are damp, warm weather as well as poor methods of watering. Always water early in the day to give plants a chance to dry out before dark, and try to avoid splashing water in the leaves - a soaker hose is a good way to water roses. Water splashing from the soil carries the fungus up to the plant. Poor air circulation is always a factor for fungus growth, too. The cycle continues from year to year if you aren't absolutely meticulous about cleaning up dead and dying foliage around the roses. Every diseased leaf should be destroyed, not composted or the cycle of black spot will continue from year to year. Blackspot lives on in compost unless the compost pile is very hot. If you are planting new roses, you’d be wise to look for varieties that are labeled as resistant to black spot. There are plenty of chemicals at garden centers that deter black spot and when used according to directions, they do work well. You must re-apply them, according to directions, as you have done. But sometimes, roses become resistant to particular chemicals - then you must change to another brand with another main ingredient. You might try Fuginex and Daconil - but know that fungicides will not cure blackspot, only keep it from building up. Some gardeners have had good result using, as an alternative, a solution of plain old kitchen baking soda, oil, or soap - diluted at a rate of one and a half tablespoons baking soda, and either two tablespoons of horocultural oil, or a few drops of Ivory liquid in a gallon of water, but it's not very effective when used alone. Spray on all sides of the plant, and repeat after rain. Your plants need to re-foliate this year- if they do, there is a chance for survival. If not, you may want to replace and replant in a new area to avoid future contamination. Prune plants back severely in the fall, removing all dead canes and leaves from the plants, as well as from the ground. Wait 'til spring to make your decision to remove the plants, unless the plant is obviously dead. Remember – do not compost diseased plants: destroy by burning. Good luck! Staying ahead of blackspot takes time and energy - let me know what happens.

Morning Glories
Q: For several years have grown Heavenly Blue morning glories in large pots on our back porch with good results. This year plants purchased as usual from local source started off great. About three weeks ago, I noticed several wrinkled leaves on each plant, most on upper part of vines.
And the leaves appear more wrinkled each day – they’re so wrinkled and curled I expect they will die soon. I sprayed with soap and water thinking I spotted some white fly on lower healthy leaves. Do you know of anything which might be causing this kind of damage to morning glories? Thank you so much - love your articles. Please don't publish name/number. Thanks again.A.S., Salem Willows

A: You can be sure we won’t - we never publish names or numbers. We sometimes use initials, and we do mention the city/source. Is this OK with you? I respect your privacy.

Morning glories are considered foolproof - they grow quickly and prefer poor soil, require little water, no fertilizing, lots of sun -and something to climb! And they're generally pest free. Most gardeners don't realize that they generally bloom later in the summer, often not until mid- August, unless they are started indoors in spring. I can't imagine what is bothering your Heavenly Blues - but I would use something stronger than soap if you have seen evidence of white fly on the bottom leaves. - by this time, they are firmly entrenched. Try any of the all- purpose garden sprays from Ortho, or Bayer, and spray on the underside of the leaves as well as the soil. They're available a garden centers. By any chance, did you fail to empty and clean your pots thoroughly last fall? Some disease carried over in the old soil could also be the problem. Let me know how it goes - and maybe you'd like to start your own plants next year - there are some fabulous colors available, as well as the classic Heavenly Blues.

Crab apples
Q: My crabapple trees are hanging down very low. Is it ok to use some pruning shears to give them a haircut? Thanks, kgp

A: You can certainly do a light pruning now – but make it a trim not a scalping. Ideally, pruning of crabapples is best done by the middle/end of June - after that, the tree will be growing flower buds for next year, which you will remove with each and every cut...and fewer flowers next spring will mean less fruit. These trees generally don't require much pruning except for overhanging branches and an occasional shoot from the base. I would use a small hand pruner, rather than hedge shears in order to maintain a more natural look – I think you’ll like a less sculptured look.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Everyone should have some plants in their office or home, even if you think you have a “brown” thumb”.
Plants that help you to breathe cleaner air:
Certain green plants can help remove indoor air pollutants like formaldehyde and benzene. Don't have the gardening gene? Golden pothos, English ivy, and (spaths) peace lilies are all easy-to-grow toxin fighters. And flowering plants do even more for you: they relieve stress. You say you don’t have a green thumb? Then try a bouquet of bright cut flowers on your desk. – they have the same effect. According to a study at Kansas State University, women who keep a bouquet of highly colored flowers on their desk have less stress than those who have green plants or no plants at all... The reason why? Flowers may capture the attention, giving your mind a break from negative feelings that lead to stress. So you might want to ditch the ivy and grow an African violet instead – and hope it blooms!

August 15, 2007: Pressure Treated Lumber, Relocating Annabel Hydrangea, Iris/ Lily division, Pole Beans

Pressure- treated lumber
Q: Can you plant vegetables if the garden is outline with pressure treated wood?? I appreciate any info. on the subject. Thanks, J.

A: A lot depends how old the lumber used in building the raised or outlined bed is - the most popular older (toxic) product has been used for about 40 years and is called CCA. The chemicals used in preserving this lumber contains arsenic, chromium and copper (Yipes!) - All three are toxic! CCA is not widely available today - but it does still exist in older construction projects, from raised beds to compost pile fencing to decks and fencepost and others building uses. Currently, there are several kinds of pressure-treated lumber that are considered "safer" woods for projects that have the potential for contacting foods and living creatures and plants -and the list of lumber products is growing........ Some studies claim that the toxic materials only leach into the soil about a foot from the contaminated wood surface (but what about the fact that you move soil around as you cultivate the area - and you turn a compost pile weekly to mix it?) Some experts suggest that you can wrap the edge of a planting area with a heavy layer of plastic which might prevent the toxic chemicals from leaching into the soil. But if it is pressure treated wood that was used in your older construction, I don't think I'd chance it! Old railroad ties, which we all used in years past for landscaping, are especially bad! They are preserved with creosote. A major study says that plants absorb only minute parts of arsenic, so the home gardener should not be concerned, they say. True - it's only a small amount - but these chemicals build up in the body and accumulate over the years....I wouldn't want these substances in my food even in small amounts.

What to do:
If you're building a new project, ask the lumberyard for advice on a safe lumber they sell..... Plant only ornamentals around the edge of an older raised bed, or an outlined bed - grow food only in the center.......Line questionable treated wood used in raised beds with plastic BEFORE filling with soil....in your case, you could dig out the soil at the edge and then line the area. (Be sure not to interfere with drainage.)

Best solution: Build with untreated lumber and plan to rebuild every few years - or use concrete blocks or stone or bricks or other non-toxic building materials that require no treatment.

Pole Beans
Q: In late April I planted pole beans with seeds from 2005 & 2006. They came up and started to climb, but they are only up 2 or 3 feet. Usually by this time they are close to 6 feet or more. There aren't too many beans either. They are still stretching out but don't seem to be sticking to the poles. They seem kind of stunted, but are very green. What could be wrong? G.M.

A: Seed for pole beans should remain viable for two to three years if stored properly, so you were right on the edge of having stale seed. Late April might have been too early to plant pole beans this year - it was a cold spring and pole beans need a soil temperature of at least 65 degrees to germinate - otherwise, they can rot, or take a long time to show growth. Your beans also need a rough support in order to climb well. I assume you have grown nutritious pole beans successfully in previous years :( Did you know that an acre of beans can feed a man for a year?) They should be grown in a sunny area with rich soil. Don’t cultivate deeply around the base of the plants as this causes damage to tender feeder roots and the buds will drop - do weeding by hand. Some good companion plants to grow along with the beans are marigolds, radishes, corn and potatoes and summer savory - but not onions. I think it's worth the time spent to replant. Many pole beans mature in only 60 days - so you might want to give the beans another try this year with fresh seed. Late summer crops germinate much faster in the warm late summer soil than they did in the cool soil in early spring.

Iris and Daylily Division
Q: When is the best time of the year to divide Siberian iris and daylilies? Thanks, W.M.

A: Daylilies are usually divided every 4-6 years unless you want huge clumps - and then, they aren't divided until bloom slows down from overcrowding. ...do it in late summer, before mid-September, so the plants will have time to re-establish themselves. Cut foliage down to about 6 inches after transplanting - and cut long roots - this seems to stimulate lilies to re-establish themselves more quickly...

Siberian iris are the most trouble-free iris you can grow! They grow so well, as long as they're kept well-watered, that they're listed as invasive by some experts! Divide them in late summer, or early spring, allowing at least three fans of leaves to each section.

Relocating Annabelle Hydrangea
Q: We have had great luck with several varieties of hydrangea. Our Annabelle takes a beating after blooming from the rains. We have supported it with wire fencing early, but the stems/flowers get bent over the fencing as well. So, we plan to relocate it under the canopy of a very tall oak. It will be several feet from the base of the oak, and on a higher level. How far back can I cut it before digging it up? What advice could you offer? Thank you. L.K., Jr.

A: One of the joys of an Annabelle hydrangea is that it blooms on new wood – and will survive the harsh winters and spring of New England. You can cut it back as much as you wish during transplanting - of course, you might be sacrificing a little of next years bloom, but not much – it will catch up! When you transplant, amend the soil with good compost - when you choose to plant so close to a mature tree, you have to compensate for the food and moisture used by the tree, and unavailable to your hydrangea. Fertilize in the spring - and water carefully and thoroughly all through the growing season, especially the first year, but also in years after - hydrangeas need moisture and an area under a tree can be very dry. I'm sure the plant will be happier under the tree than it was being beaten down by the rain - but do watch the moisture levels - this year and in the future. Moisture is what makes a hydrangea thrive!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
.Plant cool weather crops now for fall harvesting: cabbage, cauliflower, kale broccoli – by seed. Hurry! There’s still time for another planting of carrots, bush beans, lettuce, beets. Seeds germinate faster in the warm soil in late August. But buy your seeds now – they’ll soon be gone!

August 22, 2007: Bitter Cukes, Pots Sizes, Lilies, Rosa Rugosa, Bunnies

Bitter cucumbers
Q: We have a raised bed which held Blue Rug junipers for many years. My husband removed them this spring and added compost to the soil. We planted 2 hills of cucumbers in this bed. The cukes have been coming fast and furiously, but are so bitter we cannot eat them. Last year we grew them in a similar raised bed. Those junipers were removed several years ago. We grew flowers there for several years before growing tomatoes and cucumbers there without problem last year. Any ideas? M.O.

A: Are you stressing your cucumbers? I’m not kidding! Stress produces bitterness. Stress comes in the form of extreme heat and lack of water. A raised bed should grow good cukes - but you will have to watch the water consumption - a raised bed dries out fast, and that's one of the reasons for bitter cukes. Mulch them heavily to control heat in ground and to conserve moisture. Cukes should be harvested while young and small, and not allowed to develop a tough skin. Stem end can be cut off after harvesting - this is the most bitter part of the veggie or fruit (they're correctly classifies as either one!) Bitter cukes do not get any better after picking. Some varieties are just naturally less in cucurbitacins, the compound in cucumbers which makes the bitter taste - and makes some people burp! Next season, look for varieties which are marketed as "burpless". Did you know? Cucumbers were once called "cowcumbers" because they were only thought to be suitable for feeding to livestock not for human consumption! Isn't it nice to be able to go out into the garden and pick a nice, fresh cucumber that hasn't been coated with wax to preserve it in a supermarket! The largest cucumber in the world was grown in Australia in 1988 and weighed 59 pounds! That's a big burp!

Pots
Q: I am beginning to buy a few perennials now to fill in the bare spots in my summer border. I keep on running into plants sold in a pot size called “trade gallons” – what are trade gallons? I thought a gallon was a gallon – this is worse than trying to understand metric measurement!

A: Confusing isn’t it?! It’s called a “trade gallon” because it isn’t a gallon - - it’s really 3 quarts - and about 7” deep and 6” deep. And while we’re on the subject, a 3 inch pot isn’t 3” pot either - it’s really 3 ½ inches, and a four inch pot is about 4.2 inches. And the trade calls a trade gallon pot a number# 1 pot – is that clear now? (Don’t worry! I don’t get it either – but then I’m still having trouble with metrics, too!)

Lilies
Q: I really enjoy reading your column every week and most of the questions I sometimes have are asked and answered in your question. I do a question for you though. My Stella D’Oro lilies are done blooming now. Do I divide them now, in the fall, or in the spring? Also, can they take some shade? D.M., Methuen

A: Your Stella D'Oros are rebloomers - divide them in the fall or else in the very early spring, when the new shoots appear - just not in mid-summer's heat. Don't be too eager to divide them - every 4-5 years is probably often enough. They certainly can take some light shade - but you will be sacrificing flowers - all daylilies do better in full sun. Want some variety? Look for a purple Stella D'Oro daylily, called Purple D'Oro, of course - which has the same strong and reblooming characteristics as the original yellow...

Rosa Rugosa
Q: I purchased a Rugosa rose thinking I would have flowers all summer as most beach type roses do. As soon as the first blossom fell off, I deadheaded, and have not had blossoms since. It is in full sun, and I am using a fertilizer with more potassium than nitrogen. Any suggestions for why I am not getting the blooms? Thanks for any advice. D.V.

A: Rosa Rugosa was a good choice for almost summer-long blooms - but this bloom pattern takes a few years after planting or transplanting to take hold. Wait a few years - and I think as the rose matures in the new location, you will find that it blooms with a huge flush of flowers in early summer, then again intermittently through the rest of the year. The best fertilizer would be an evenly balanced fertilizer, a 10-10-10 formula or a 12-12-12 but only in granular form applied carefully to the soil. Rugosa roses can't handle liquid chemical fertilizers. Rugosas will often drop all their leaves (defoliate) if you spray or feed them with liquid chemical fertilizers, like Miracle Gro. If you do feed them, the leaves turn yellow and then fall off. If you’ve already done it, never do that again, and that the rose will recover. In the fall you might want to gather the red seed pods, known as "rose hips" for jams and jellies - they have been prized for centuries as a source of Vitamin C, even better than oranges, and lemons and other citrus fruits!

Bunnies, bunnies, bunnies!
Q: Oh my God they started on the petunias ate every flower & left 1/2 an inch of bloom. Then it was my delphiniums, some right down to the ground, others they let them start to bloom, chewed the stalk & left the flower to die on the ground. Then came the sunflowers, they bent them over to eat the leaves off. Then the little terrorists moved on to the gloriosa daisies, just chewing them off & dropping them on the ground, of course the small sunflowers I had started a little late never stood a prayer, this morning was the final blow, the asters I have been waiting for, for months just starting to show what color they would have been are laying on the ground along with the 3/12 ' tall 6 blossom coneflower. You know, its one thing if they are hungry but the only thing they have eaten was the sunflower leaves. I just seems like pure destruction. It also seems like they wait till things start to bloom each time. I know about locking the barn door, but is there anything I can do. I have never had this happen before. Thanks, S.M.

A: Welcome Mother Nature's world - it IS her world, you know, and we are merely the caretakers! Bunny damage! Is it also possible that you also have a woodchuck in the garden, causing damage to the taller plants? You need something to make your garden less attractive to the bunnies - a product called "ShakeAway for Small Critters " is a good place to start - sprinkle it on and replace after heavy rain and you critters should leave the premises! It's available at garden centers..... Of course they eat your most precious, tender, new shoots and buds - if YOU were a bunny, wouldn't you prefer these tender, delicious, succulent leaves to an older, touch, stringy stem? And they have to taste before they decide! One thing you have to say: They're discerning, particular little gourmets! Let me know what happens! Bye-bye, bunnies!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Keep feeding annuals in the garden – push them by feeding to encourage bloom now and thru fall – it doesn’t hurt them to force additional bloom because you’re going to toss them out with the first killing frost. Container plants need even more fertilizer than plants in the ground – nutrients wash through the soil every time you water – No wonder my grass is so luxurious in areas where pots have been sitting all summer!

Remove standing water in and around the garden – we’re all guilty – our birdbaths, small water gardens, like those in barrels, even water and leaf- filled gutters. Cover water barrels, flush out birdbaths, and use Mosquito Dunks, which is a product that is safe for wildlife, and keeps mosquitoes from ever hatching.

August 29, 2007: Pink Flamingos come back from Extinction!, Beehive- Jar Watering Idea, Japanese Andromeda, Tomatoes with Blossom End Rot

Gardeners rejoice! Pink flamingos have come back from extinction!
A much-loved bird species has been saved from the endangered species list! No, it’s not the bald eagle or the whooping crane – it’s the pink plastic flamingo and it’s back to adorn the lawns and gardens of America. The birds’ demise was predicted and mourned when Union Products, the original maker of pink plastic flamingos, went out of business last year. Thought then to be extinct, the flamingos got a new chance at life earlier this month when Union Products’ assets were acquired by HMC International. Flamingo lovers all over the country will be happy to know that the birds will continue to be produced at its Rome, N.Y., facility. The pink flamingo was created in 1957 by Union Products designer Don Featherstone. He won the 1997 Ignoble Art Prize for his kitschy creation and it has become the symbol of American garden art – and a lot of practical jokes - ever since!

Tomatoes with blossom end rot
Q: I have Big Boy tomatoes growing in five gallon containers. Until a month ago they were growing really well, tall plants (approx.four feet) with lots of tomatoes. Plants are still doing well but, I noticed the tomato bottoms turning black and then rotting. After determining it to be blossom end rot I went to my local Agway. They had me use a product called Rot-Stop which I first sprayed on the plants three weeks ago to be followed with weekly doses of bone meal. It is three weeks later and I am still noticing new cases of blossom end rot. I have done the spray treatment once per week as the bottle specified. I still have lots of green tomatoes on the plants and don't want to lose them. With the recent heat I have been watering the plants daily, usually around mid day when they start to show withering of the leaves, which perk back up after watering. Please help. What am I doing wrong? Thank you, C.

A: The usual cause of bloom end rot is a calcium deficiency in the soil, which can be corrected with the addition of crushed well-washed seashells, eggshells, bone meal or another commercial calcium additive - and/or uneven watering and temperatures. But additives take time to work! Right now - uneven temperatures CANNOT be easily controlled outdoors - but you CAN control the moisture levels: Uneven moisture stresses the fruit, even when it occurs for just a few hours. Mulch well to keep the moisture even, whether the plants are planted in pots or directly in the garden - and check water regularly. If plants are wilting as you say they are, they certainly are stressing! Remove any fruit which shows signs of end rot and discard - but since the extreme stress which causes to rot does not seem to affect the plant itself but rather the fruit, the smaller developing fruit may be OK. I hope you are not re-using the soil in your pots from year to year - this and planting in the ground in the same place can cause a vitamin and mineral deficiency over the years (as well as bugs!)

Continue to use the Rot-Stop as directed. It is a systemic and works more quickly than soil additives - but it cannot stop the rot in ripening tomatoes after it starts. Use it now - and look to this product to help the future developing fruit, from the flowering stage to full growth.

Japanese andromeda
I have four Japanese andromeda bushes. They are foundation plantings in the front of my house. They are now about six feet high. They seem very healthy. The leaves are very green and firm. About a week ago I noticed that on the branch of one of them, about an inch in diameter, the leaves are very droopy, dry, and pale green. Does this sound like the whole shrub may be dying? I water it whenever it has been dry for a few days. It's in the shade till middle to late afternoon, and is over twenty years old. Any suggestions?

A: Your andromeda is over twenty years old - and you see no signs of insect damage....but, no matter the age, they CAN be subject to over-watering. Could you have over-watered? Or might a gutter down-spout be dumping gallons of water on your plant every time it sprinkles? Have there been any structural changes around the plants? A few years ago, I discovered an andromeda branch browning ----- it was just within reach of the the warm exhaust of a new air conditioner's condenser! Shrubs are meant to be pruned - so if the branch is completely dead, prune it very low to the ground as soon as possible. The normal pruning time for pruning a blooming shrub would be right after it blooms so you don't disturb next years' beautiful white bloom - but this is dead wood you're talking about. -And you might consider giving the plants some protection this winter, if the weather is as severe as last year.

Beehive jar watering
- A letter from innovative reader
Q: Just read the reader's tip re beehive pots and PVC pipe in the center to hold water [Salem News, 7/18. I have a suggestion: Prior to filling with dirt, what about using a cardboard insert inside the pipe? Then toss in the dirt and remove the cardboard? What I have in mind is the tube from bathroom tissue or paper towels. If too wide, you could slice the tube and roll it or else squeeze it a bit to insert it. Seems to me this or something similar would minimize the dirt entering the pipe? When you remove the cardboard, after adding dirt and before watering, you could still add the tubes to your recycling pickup. Read you faithfully. Your column is one of the highlights of the Salem News.

A: -Sounds like a great idea! I love hearing about the innovative ways our readers solve problems - usually with common household items! And your idea is recyclable, too - I like that!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Do you have an over-abundance of produce in your garden? Donate it to your local food pantry – they’d love the fresh produce – and you’ve worked too hard all summer to waste it. Tomatoes, zucchini, cukes, beans, greens, apples, etc. – they’re all needed Because of lack of storage, food pantries most pantries can’t offer a lot of fresh produce to their clients , so your gifts of fresh fruit and vegetables would be most welcome. Call your local pantry for information on donations. It’s a shame to waste good food. In Beverly, servicing the North Shore of MA, call Beverly Bootstraps, 978-927-1561 Their food pantry is open Mon through Friday, 9-4pm for donations or call your local service organization or church for information on a food pantry in your area.