North Shore Gardener January 2007

Photo: BBarger

Jan 3: Gall mites, Clematis, Anti-desiccants, Cyclamen

Cyclamen
Q: I moved /rescued a beautiful cyclamen plant, in full bloom from a gift at a nursing home. It was bone-dry when I moved it. How often should I water? I have just a little water in the saucer now and I have it in the sunniest window I can find. It’s away from drafts and quite warm and toasty and warm, just like the room where it was living! But it’s getting yellow. What do I do now?

A: Unfortunately, everything you have done is wrong!
Cyclamen love cool temperatures, and bright light - not direct sunlight. A cyclamen is not a good gift for a hospital or a nursing home¸ unless you realize it’s given for a temporary spot of brightness and cheer. The bright light part may be easy - it's the "cool" part that can be difficult in today’s well-heated houses and nursing homes. "Cool”, in cyclamen language, is certainly a lot cooler than you might like in any house in winter: 40 degrees-55 degrees at night and 65 degrees during the day is cyclamen cool. That's cooler than summer in New England. And that's why most cyclamens that are bought in the spring begin to fade as the temperatures get warmer through the summer - and thrive again as we go into cooler autumn. Cyclamen are grown from tubers half buried in soil. Carefully remove dead flowers and leaves as they turn yellow. Very important: When removing dead leaves and flowers from a cyclamen tuber, don't cut them off. Very gently twist them off at the base of the plant so that you remove the whole stem - a remaining stub will only rot and may cause the whole tuber to rot... Water them like an African violet: water from the side of the pot or from the bottom - avoid water on the crown and you'll avoid rot. Use water that is room temperature….and never let the plant stand in water for more than an hour or so to soak. Good air circulation is VERY important, especially after watering a cyclamen. Like an African violet, they should dry quickly to avoid rot. Cyclamen are difficult to keep from year to year. If you want to try, give the tuber a dry rest period over the summer, when the weather is hot – and start the tuber in a fresh pot of soil after weather turns cool. In a few more weeks, your rescued cyclamen will finish blooming and go into a state of suspended animation and begin its rest... All leaves will yellow and drop. They’re not easy to bring into flower again – but if it has variegated leaves, it’s worth it even just for the foliage.

Picking out a “good” cyclamen for yourself – or as a gift:
A “good” cyclamen is in bloom when you buy it, and has more tiny buds visible under the beautiful leaves. Pick up the plant and look under the leaves to the center of the plant….lots of little, pointed buds should be visible. Protect from cold as you bring it home and enjoy it in a cool, bright but not directly sunny location.

Anti-desiccant uses
Q: Last fall, someone told me I should spray my rhodys with a desiccant so I did – and did it again this year– but now I have cans of the stuff left over. Is there anything else it’s good for? I think I heard its good on all evergreens .What can I use it for – it’s not cheap – I don’t want to keep the cans around for another year.

A: Anti-desiccants are sold under various names, including Wiltproof and Cloudcover and are available at garden centers. The solution is most often used on rhodys, azaleas, and evergreens – but it’s also useful on perennials like hydrangeas, which bloom on new wood. An anti-desiccant is a wax or polymer coating which is sprayed on broadleaf plants, particularly rhodys and azaleas in the early winter to hold in the moisture and protects them from drying out in severe cold. Since anti-desiccants protect from drying, why not spray it on bulbs you’re saving over the winter, like dahlias and glads and begonias and caladiums? And there is some evidence that an anti-desiccant’s protective coating will protect shrubs from salt damage…….and even protect from some insects….. Next spring, it will help your important perennials hold moisture if sprayed on when transplanting…. be sure to spray the underside of the leaves, but not the roots... And next year, do spray it on your Christmas tree, whether it is live or cut - (but never on blue varieties, as it will slightly discolor the needles) Sub-zero days and nights and high, drying winds and lack of protective snow cover will take a huge toll on all perennials this winter – we can only wait for spring to find out where and what and how much.

Clematis
Q: Several of my clematis have turned brown and died this spring/summer. I have spring blooming and summer blooming ones which have died. The stems didn't bud and the later, budding stems died after the leaves turned brown. Was this just a bad year? T. V.W. Salem, MA

A: Clematis is susceptible to a fungus, which produces a black spot on the leaves, which produces some of the problems you mentioned, such as buds not opening, etc. - but you did not mention any spotting of the leaves.....nor did you mention any sign of bugs... I don't think you can blame the weather - was something different going on in your garden?? Did anyone use a weed killer a weed killer in the area of the clematis which might have drifted? How about a load of compost or manure from a new source? Was there any new construction within the area? Clematis likes an alkaline soil - anything like construction fill could disturb the area… Was there lawn fertilizing done where there might have been run-off during the year - especially a broad leaf weed killer? Other than that, did you change any gardening procedure - a new fertilizer, lack of water during a vacation, heat build-up because of a new addition or even a new window in the area - all these things could influence growth. Did you prune at a different time (don't really think this is the problem) Were any other plants in the area affected? Did these clematis do well in past years - or were they new plants? Are they growing close together?? We're going to have to be detectives to figure this out - we need more answers, please!

Gall Mites
Q: I have a 30 foot high 6 inch diameter Silver Maple Tree that has had gall mites for the past 3 years. The first two years I sprinkled a product around the base of the tree that was supposed to make the tree "taste" bad for the insects. Didn't work. This year I had TruGreen/Chemlawn spray insect and disease control products in June and August. The tree is still loaded with gall mites. They now want to spray an antidessicant in winter.
Am I being taken to the cleaners? What do you advise. T.

A: To control mites, you have to know just a little about them:
First of all, they are not said to be harmful to the tree - they just look awful!
The mites over winter in the tree bark, migrating up the tree to the tender new growth in the spring and feed on the underside of the leaves. Feeding stimulates the leaves to grow around the mite to protect it - that is growth is called the gall. The female then reproduces and the new generation leaves the protection of the gall and continues feeding on the leaves. This process stops in the fall. Incidentally, meticulously raking and disposing of the leaves in fall does little or no good, since the mite winters over in the bark.....Infestation is usually greater the season following a mild winter...

You can see there is a very narrow window of time when a dormant spray could be effective - no spray works once the mite is in the gall. Because this mite will not harm the health of the tree, generally no action is recommended - unless you can't stand the sight of galls! They could be carried by wind and rain, so your neighbors would have to spray at this same as well, or you'd risk further contamination... sometimes a systemic is used in spring or early summer to kill the mite. ….Is it worth the expense of spraying? Maybe not....

I don't understand why the arborist is suggesting the use of an antidessicant for this problem - an antidessicant is used to prevent moisture loss from leaves in a cold, dry winter ......it's used on evergreens, such as pines, rhodys, azaleas, and other trees and shrubs which retain their leaves all winter and need the protection, - a maple doesn't have leaves in winter (!!!) - so what is he protecting???
Hope this helps! Thanks for writing and thanks for your interesting questions!
Let me know what happens!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
January 6th is Twelfth Night – it’s the official end of the holiday season! It’s also the night when it is said that animals can talk – not just the animals like donkeys and sheep and cows that were present in the manger, but all animals! You can bet that I’ll be listening to my cats that night – I’m sure they have a lot to say! The season ends the twelve days which began on the 25th and ends on the 6th of January. You must rid your house of all Christmas greens by that day – or else keep them for the entire year! Don’t burn the greens in the fireplace! By now, they’re much too dry and could cause a flash fire in your home or chimney. BUT- what are you going to do with the greens? Don’t give the greens to the trash men. Think of ways you can use them instead: Branches and boughs and even wreaths can be used as mulch and can be put on the garden to protect the perennials and, and bulbs and tender garden plants from the thaws and freezes of winter. No snow so far this year, so we need to blanket our tender perennials. Just lay the branches on the garden and the needles will gradually fall off over the winter. When spring comes, you'll be left with a few sticks – which could then be saved and used for vines and climbers, like sweet peas. I always remove and discard ribbons and bows from wreaths – but any large pinecones and decorations will be saved for another season. Don’t worry about the wire in the wreaths now – the pine needles will simply fall off, and you can pick up the wire in the spring. Let nature take care of your leftover greens instead of the trash men.

Bay Laurel wreaths and roping
Were you lucky enough to receive a Bay laurel wreath this Christmas? Or maybe you used Bay Laurel roping? Bay Laurel repels weevils and pantry bugs. That could be a second use for those greens even if they’re dry and dusty. The large flat leaves can be placed near foodstuffs where pantry pests are visible. Bugs will disappear – safely.

A wreath of herbs or flowers?
If the wreath is beginning to fall apart, the leaves and stems and flowers could be kept and used as a potpourri - Just break it apart and put it into a glass jar or flat dish where it will scent the room for months.

And the Christmas tree!
It’s the biggest green of all – and the most expensive. The stately tree deserves something better than being tossed out in the trash. Make your leftover Christmas tree into a buffet for the birds – just decorate with berries and fruits and seed and the birds will love it.
In the spring, the needles will have fallen – and you can use the branches in the garden, and the trunk for a bean or morning glory pole.
Happy New Year!

Jan 10: Absentee care/Winter vacation care of houseplants, Tomato starts, Bird feeding goes on vacation…., Winter window boxes, African violet, Moles and peanut butter

African violet
Q: My African violet isn’t blooming as well as it should. I have it in strong filtered light most of the day and I have it close to a kitchen light that is on all day and all night, so it gets lots of light. I fertilize it every week and I water it from below – the plant looks fine, but it seldom flowers. What’s wrong?

A: Did you know that African violets need 8 hours of darkness every twenty four hours? You’re being too nice to the plant! Don’t kill it by making it work to grow 24 hours day – the plant needs to rest. Everything else is fine - now just turn off the kitchen light at night.

Winter window boxes
Q: My window boxes look so bare! They’re not removable so I can’t just take them down and put them in the garage - I have to face them all year, whether I like it or not. Please give me some simple, cheap ways of making them look at least presentable until I can do my summer planting. They are empty now, except for a dead stem or two of alyssum –

A: The simplest way to dress up a winter window box or even empty pots on the front steps sitting is to fill them with evergreen branches. .use old soil to anchor – no need for new- they need no care and will last for weeks and even months outdoors in winter. If the temperature is above freezing, you can water them to make them last even longer – but snow /rain will probably supply all the moisture they need. Plain greens are nice but a mixture provides texture - add a weatherproof bow and a pinecone or two –and some winterberries - and with very little attention the box will look great ‘til spring. If you want a bit of color, you could add some artificial flowers. Green can be replenished if the winter is unusually long or windy – do keep your window boxes looking fresh till spring- Decorate the box and make it a bird feeder, too – just add strings of popcorn or cranberries or raisins or cereal – and watch the birds flock to you winter window boxes.

Think of how much simpler a lovely winter window box will be compared to your summer boxes:
No fertilizing!
No regular watering!
No spraying for bugs!
No worrying about a sudden cold spell!
Winter window boxes are a gardener’s dream – all winter long!

Moles and peanut butter
Q: I know you've written about having mole problems in the yard. I understand they eat insects and veggies and such, but did you ever hear of them liking peanut butter? I've caught two in my cellar in mouse traps baited with peanut butter. How come? Thanks, Bill K., Peabody

A: Moles generally eat grubs and worms - they're not particular and certainly not vegetarians! Why not peanut butter? I know you meant it for the mice, but how did they know? In the cold weather, regular fare gets a bit scarce. The ground has barely frozen this winter - but the cold weather does chase their normal food deeper into the earth. They were probably overjoyed to find this gourmet treat - a well-mashed and lightly salted nut paste, served in a warm winter place where they didn't have to lift a paw to get it. (Of course, they didn't know that the price they'd pay would be the trap......) Moles are solitary creatures - since you've already caught two that may be the end of your trapping experience with moles - unless they told their friends who live in your neighbor's yards and gardens that you’re serving peanut butter hors d’oeuvres...

Winter vacation care of houseplants
Q: Hi, Enjoy your column in the Lawrence Eagle Tribune, and have a question. We will be away for several weeks this winter, and are wondering what your advice is on keeping our plants watered. To start off, all of the plants are green! Both of us are unsure what they are called, but they all sit on stands, hang on hooks or are outside in the summer. But we do know the following: there are vinca vines, a Christmas cactus, regular cactus, a mandevillea vine, ivies, and coleus. We will be away for 4-5 weeks, and feel it wrong to impose on any one to come in, and see to the plants. I know that they need less water in the cold season, but they still need some. Any ideas or tips on automatic water feeders or whatever else is out there will be greatly appreciated. Our thanks, G/J

A: There are several old methods of placing plants in a bathtub with wet towels - and letting them stand in the shallow water.... And there is the system of watering the plants well, and closing the plants in a plastic bag - and placing it in a bright, but not sunny spot - and letting the condensation keep the plant sort of damp - but neither of these methods would be substitutes for care for more than a week or ten days - and the condensation from the plastic “greenhouse” might rot the leaves of many plants. And a gadget which allows water to drip from an upended one- liter soda bottle, placed in each pot, would not supply enough water for a month.

There are several good indoor watering systems to baby-sit houseplants for about a month at a time - here are two of them:
One system functions on a system of individual lengths of tubing which siphon water from a reservoir to each plant - the second system mentioned operates on batteries and a reservoir, and does not require a faucet connection, so both would be safe to leave unattended in case of a power failure.
Another, called the "Water Worm" can be individually designed by you to water just one plant -or several.....cost varies with the number of wicks required for your plants.
Still another system is called "Oasis" by Claber - the basic kit contains equipment to water 20 plants for 40 days - cost: about $80.
You might want to have a friend to come in and check the water level in the reservoir on any system by the third week or so with any of these products, unless you felt secure that there was water enough for your entire trip. – depending on the weather, the plants could be using more water than planned....
Next, go on the web - and look under "houseplant watering stems" - you'll find more similar systems - and specifics for these systems as well. They're not inexpensive so you want the best system for you. I assume that you will be lowering the temperature of the house slightly while you are away, so this should mean plants would require slightly less water than usual.
I would certainly decide on any system early - and give yourself - and the plants - time to adjust – be sure the system in and working so you can test it before you leave.

Tomato starts
Q: When can I start my tomato plants? I’m so ready for summer! If I start them now, will I get tomatoes a lot earlier?

A: Nope! It won’t help! Tomato seeds that are started too early simply don’t thrive indoors the way they will outdoors…
Start tomatoes indoors about mid-April and they’ll be ready to put out into WARM soil at the end of May or early June – tomatoes demand warm weather – and so do we!!!
A little growing tip: Start your tomatoes in deep containers – tomatoes need plenty of root room. – a one quart bottle or carton makes a good pot.

Bird feeder goes on vacation…
Q: I feed the birds at a feeder and on my windowsill all year, winter and summer. I’m going away for a few weeks in mid-winter – will they miss me?

A: YES! Sort of! Once you start feeding the birds, they depend on your source of food. But they probably won’t exactly starve to death while you are gone – they will search out other sources of food – and then may not return to your feeder for weeks after your return. Why not ask a neighbor to fill your feeder at least several times a week while you’re away? Then the birdies will be there to greet you when you get back…
If we can keep the birdies around all winter with food and water, they’ll be more likely to return to our buggy gardens this summer when we need them most – a few bags of seed and some bread crusts is a small price to pay for the garden protection and sheer joy birds give you all summer.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
We're past the winter equinox now.
Watch the changing sunlight as the sun rises higher in the sky each day - some house plants will need to be moved to other windows or shielded with a sheer curtains from hotter sun as the sun regains heat and strength and we move toward spring!.

Jan 17, 2007: Old Christmas cactus, Orchid plant, Christmas cactus drooping, Warm weather, Miracle Christmas tree

Help!!! The craziest question
Q: I need help! This is going to seem like the craziest question ever, but I didn't know who else to ask. We got our Christmas tree a few days after Thanksgiving. It is a cut, ~7 foot tall fir tree. Well, you won't believe it but it is growing like crazy! It has new branches and sprouts all over it! I even tried to break off a sprout to put it in a cup of water, but the branch wouldn't break and I got sap on my hands- I had to rip the branch off the tree- and it was a 3 inch piece of branch. The problem is: My spouse is now ready to get the tree out of the living room, but I don't know what to do with the tree. I call it "The Miracle Tree" because I have never seen a cut tree grow like crazy like this and I don't want to "kill" it. I thought of planting it outside, but it doesn't seem like it has grown any roots. My spouse wants to put it in water outside, but I think the water would freeze and kill it. I wish I knew a greenhouse that could spare the room to give it a home and take care of it. Please answer as soon as possible! I only have a day or so to save my miracle tree! Thanks!!!!!! -S.L.B.

A: We did have a question last year about another "miracle tree" – it’s not crazy at all! You're quite right, the tree is lovely with the new growth (called candles) - but since it will not grow roots, it won't survive longer than a few weeks more inside..... (You may have started a new tradition - it might become your very first Valentine's tree or even an Easter tree!!) Your tree was obviously cut when very fresh, so enjoy it as long as you can -change the water as often as needed, just like any cut flower or cut greens. Eventually, it will have to go the way of all cut Christmas trees, to the landfill or to be used as mulch. Even if you were to find a greenhouse to house the tree until spring, it would never grow into a living tree because of the lack of roots. Thank you so much for your letter - no question is crazy!

WARM WEATHER – implications
Q: I’m sure you’ve had a lot of gardeners ask this very same question – but what are we going to do since we haven’t had a real winter yet? What will it do to our gardens? Is everything that came up going to die and be lost?

A: Everything is not lost – but we really won’t know what the full damage will be until we know what’s still to come – it’s only late January, and there is a lot of winter to come.—even ‘though we’re only 10 days away from Groundhog Day.
A lot depends on some“ifs”:
IF we were to get a good blanket of snow now, it would serve as a warm blanket and protect many of the plants that arrived early….
But what IF we get a very cold spell with no snow cover? Everything would be exposed to the frigid air – and further damage could be done.
Don’t worry too much about the bulbs – they certainly won’t be at their most beautiful and many may not bloom this year – but the bulbs will certainly survive to bloom next year. Leaves will have brown ragged tips as they finally/fully emerge – be sure to allow the foliage to mature as well as they can this spring – and fertilize. IF the foliage is allowed to mature, and if the weather allows, they will bloom next year.
Flowering trees will have their blooms and buds and tiny leaves freeze and brown and probably drop – but even IF the flowers survive, and the warm weather lasts, there are no insects around to pollinate the flowers, so there will be a very tiny fruit and seed crop, if any at all. Most trees will re-foliate later in the summer, and the leaves will produce enough food to carry the tree through the summer and into next winter.

But this is what really worries me:
IF we get a cold, particularly frigid, windy, and snowless end-of-winter, I fear that we’ll lose the flowers on any plant that blooms on last year’s wood – they have their flower buds already formed before they go dormant - and IF the buds freeze in late winter, bloom will be gone for the season. I’m really concerned about the hydrangeas and some clematis.

Philly orchid care

Q: Enjoy your column in Salem News. I bought an orchid plant about 6 months ago which had 4 beautiful flowers on it. Those four flowers flourished until about 2 weeks ago when one flower died and the others followed. It is now just a long stem. Should I continue to water?
Should I cut it back or leave it alone? Will it flower again? My thumb is not green so I hesitate to do anything without advice.
Thanks so much. J.V. Marblehead

A: I think the plant you are describing is a phalaenopsis or moth orchid- they're one of the most beautiful and easiest orchids to grow in normal household temperatures - 60- 65 degrees at night is just fine...If you've never had an orchid plant before, you should know that most orchids have a definite blooming season, once or twice a year - the rest of the time they just sit there, looking green - and gathering strength for the next season. Orchids are not very interesting houseplants to most indoor gardeners, except when they flower!!

Phillys, and they are fondly called, are no different. Many bloom in the winter and spring and their flowers are among the longest lasting flowers in the orchid family. When the flower stalk has finished blooming, BREAK it off at the point where it last flowered if it is still green- through the year, the old flower stalk should put out at least one side shoot - maybe more, on which it will bloom in the coming year. Note that I said "break" - don't cut! There seems to be something that stimulates the stem to produce more buds faster if it is slightly damaged by breaking instead of being neatly cut. On mature plants, additional spikes will appear from near the base of the plant, so some years, you could have more than one stem of flowers - flowers which last for months! Feed with an all purpose fertilizer, diluted to half strength, until you clearly see buds - then stop feeding until it finishes bloom. Keep in normal warm house temperatures, away from drafts, and in filtered light - no hot sunlight for these orchids! They grow best when kept evenly moist with humid air. And it won't hurt you or the plants to raise the humidity in the dry house in winter - pans of water around the house, or pebble trays or a humidifier will benefit the plants - and you, too! The plant will enjoy an occasional shower in the sink to keep its leaves clean and dust free - do it early in the day so the plant can dry out thoroughly before night. I'm sure you will be looking for another phalaenopsis orchid plant soon! They're really a bargain! For the same price, could you get a bunch of cut flowers that would last for several months?? I don't think so!

Christmas cactus drooping
Q: I have 3 Christmas cactus. They are at least 3 years old and have bloomed every year. However the leaves seem to be pale and droopy. Could this indicate they need fertilizer, less light, repotting or all of the above? I do leave them out doors all summer. Also, are they poisonous for my cat who likes to munch on things? Thanks for your help. B.S.

A: Several things could be making your Christmas cactus droop:
Insufficient water? Could the soil be so dense that the water is draining down the sides of the soil ball and not soaking in to the root? Repot in a looser potting mixture - or gently poke holes in the soil with a skewer or fork before watering - then soak the entire pot overnight in a basin of water, drain, and watch watering more closely in the future.... These are moisture-loving jungle cactus, not dry-desert cactus
Too much sun? Morning sun is fine - but not hot afternoon sun unless it is filtered through a curtain...And cut fertilizing during the winter months when the plant rests! Skip fertilizing until early spring - then resume at half strength.....
Could the plants be too close to a cold window - or in a draft, maybe near an outside door that is constantly open and shut? These are jungle cactus - and they require average room warmth...
Christmas cactuses are not poisonous to cats - but that doesn't mean that kitties won't get sick if they're permitted to chomp on them - houseplants are not feline fodder! And tooth marks certainly won't help the plant! Keep them up high - a hanging planter is ideal if you suspect the cat is lunching on your Christmas cactus. Christmas cactuses are so attractive to cats! Imagine crunching those juicy leaves between your teeth......your cat certainly can…

Christmas cactus -needs repotting
Q: Can you tell me what to do with a very old Christmas cactus that is thinning out? It has a lot of sentimental value and I don't know if I should re-pot it. It looks like the stocks of the plant are wooden and it bloomed over Christmas and was beautiful. I thought I might try to start some plants in case I lose it. I’ve had the plant for nearly forty years! Thank you for any suggestions you may have!!

A: The really old cactuses do get quite woody. I would certainly try repotting it. It's so nice to have an heirloom plant with memories - and well-worth you time! Do take some cuttings. In the repotting process, you will probably break off a few pieces, which you can use to start new plants. (And if you don't break some pieces, cut a few pieces off after you are finished repotting the mother plant.) If you don't have time to pot them immediately, you can put the cuttings in water for a few days. When you're ready to start the new plants, dip the ends in a rooting hormone, like Hormonex and pot in regular potting soil - either individually or with several pieces in each pot... Place in a warm place and keep evenly moist - you'll find that they root remarkably fast! Soon you'll have several new plants (- some of the tiny guys may even bloom this spring) These new plants can be added to your newly repotted mother plant to fill in the bare spots or grown separately into full sized new plants.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Houseplants look pale and peeked this winter? Don’t compensate with more water and more fertilizer – that’s the last thing they need! I know it’s hard to believe – but winter has just begun! Your plants will slow down during this period of low light and certainly don’t need more water – and more fertilizers just a waste of time, money and fertilizer and could be very harmful to your plants. But things will get better! The hours of sunlight get longer each day, and in a few weeks, your plants will begin to respond and new growth will appear – that’s the time to increase food and water, not now!

Jan 24 07: Pre-chilled bulbs, Clivia, Dracaena massangeana, Vacation care for houseplants, Bird feeder goes on vacation…

Pre-chilled bulbs
Q: How do places like Disneyworld in Florida do the huge displays of tulips and other spring bulbs? I know bulbs have to be chilled before they bloom – that’s why we plant them in the fall. So how do they do it in hot Florida?

A: First of all, they have a huge budget!
These bulbs are forced – just like the ones you force in a cold frame, or in your refrigerator, only on a much larger scale. .. Cost of prechilled bulbs is about three times the cost of an unchilled bulb. The choice of bulbs variety and color is limited, unless your name is Disney – then you order exactly the ones you want in the late summer, and they’re chilled and ready for you after the first of the year... Remember, these bulbs are forced bulbs, prepared for a one-time bloom. These bulbs are cold-treated in holding rooms where the temperature and humidity can be carefully regulated – when they’re needed, they’re planted – and within weeks, they have flowers! Unless the bulbs have a naturally cold period the following year, and allowed to grow and mature foliage, they have to be dug and replaced (dumped!) - they won’t grow and bloom a second year without chilling. Can you see the $$$’s mounting up? Some Zone 9- 10 Florida gardeners do this same thing on a much smaller scale, because they miss the bulbs which we can grow so easily and cheaply here in cold New England. It’s not quite as silly as it might seem: Florida growers can buy or treat these prechilled bulbs, plant them for the one season, then discard them – we do the same thing with our annual plants. Cold-treated bulbs are now available to the home gardener for use in window boxes and other special displays, such as pots for a wedding or special events – they’re called Rapid Bloom bulbs, and cost about $24.00 for twelve hyacinths, $20, twelve tulips, or twenty-four crocus $19.00 . See the Rapid Bloom website for details.

Bird feeder goes on vacation…
Q: I feed the birds at a feeder and on my windowsill all year, winter and summer. I’m going away for a few weeks next month – will they miss me?

A: There are several old methods of placing plants in a bathtub with wet towels - and letting them stand in the shallow water...Not very effective for your lengthy trip - And there is the system of watering the plants well, and closing the plants in a plastic bag, forming a “greenhouse” - and placing it in a bright, but not sunny spot - and letting the condensation keep the plant sort of damp - but neither of these methods would be substitute care for more than a week or ten days - and the condensation from the plastic “greenhouse” might rot the leaves of many plants. And a gadget which allows water to drip from an upended one- liter soda bottle, placed in each pot. A liter of water? Probably would not supply enough water for a whole month.

There are several good indoor watering systems to baby-sit houseplants for about a month at a time - here are two of them:
One system functions on a system of individual lengths of tubing which siphon water from a large reservoir to each plant - the second system mentioned operates on batteries and a reservoir, and does not require a faucet connection, so both would be safe to leave unattended in case of a power failure.
Another, called the "Water Worm" can be individually designed by you to water just one plant -or several.....cost varies with the number of wicks required for your plants.
Still another system is called "Oasis" by Claber - the basic kit contains equipment to water 20 plants for 40 days - cost: about $80.
You might want to have a friend to come in and check the water level in the reservoir on any system by the third week or so with any of these products, unless you felt absolutely secure that there was water enough for your entire trip. – depending on the weather, and temperatures, the plants could be using more water than you planned....
Next, go on the web - and look under "houseplant watering stems" - you'll find more similar systems - and specifics for these systems as well. They're not inexpensive so you want the best system for you. I assume that you will be lowering the temperature of the house slightly while you are away, so this should mean plants would require slightly less water than usual.
I would certainly decide on any system early - and give yourself - and the plants - time to adjust – be sure the system in and working so you can test it thoroughly before you leave.

Mom’s clivia
Q: I have a plant question for you! the clivia that I have that was my mom's has been doing very well, BUT.... when I watered it, the water washed some soil down just enough for me to notice a "rope" along the inner edge of the pot. I never would have guessed since the plant seems to be doing very well, but it is the roots - coiling about the outer edge of the pot? Do they like to be root bound? Should I re-pot, and if so, into a pot how much larger than the current one? My mom just plunked these into soil right from the yard - dries out very hard, without much humus in it. Is that what they normally like? (This one does! My inclination would be to just re-pot in a size 2" larger, adding in good quality potting soil. But, I really want this plant to survive. My dad has let two others she had which died - from lack of water. I think he only has one left. So there are no more for me to bring home with me if this one dies! Any suggestions appreciated. S.

A: Clivia is a WONDERFUL houseplant, even 'though it only blooms once a year, in spring/summer - they're generally orange - there is an all-yellow hybrid - still very pricey! You're right! They DO like to be pot-bound if they're to bloom! How long has it been since it was re-potted? Too long, I expect! And the roots becoming apparent above the soil is a good indication of the need of a new pot - not too large a new pot, about an inch around all sides as you suggested. A clay or ceramic pot is nice, if you can handle the weight – clivia can be a bit top-heavy when in bloom and heavy clay pot will help to balance the top weight!

Loosen the very fibrous roots gently - loosening the roots will help water get through to the center of the plant. Then repot in a packaged, sterile potting soil to eliminate the chance of introducing bugs from garden soil - add perlite or sand to the packaged soil to aid drainage.
Water thoroughly! Let the whole pot stand in a pan of water for a few hours once a week to be sure the water gets to the center of the root mass. Drain thoroughly!! Don't overwater between soakings - keep barely moist! Water early in the day so it can dry out before nightfall.
Fertilize every few weeks during growth period with half strength houseplant fertilizer.
Keep your clivia in dappled light- early morning direct sun is OK but remember that these plants grow in the wild under a tree or fern canopy. Keep this in mind if you put them out for the warm summer months - they sunburn easily and fast!! (The grow slowly - if the leaves burn, it takes a year or two for new ones to grow back - I have a few examples of sunburned clivia that have taken two years to grow new leaves.
Clivia sometimes skips a bloom cycle the year after repotting, so don't be alarmed!!

Dracaena massangeana
Q: I was wondering if you could give me some advice. I bought a corn plant (Dracaena massangeana) - No information came with this plant. Can I put the plant out side for the summer, should I transplant it into a bigger pot and what kind of dirt should I use. This corn plant stands four feet tall. Any information give me will be helpful. Thank you for your time. A.L.C., Bradford, MA

A: Your Dracaena massangeana is a wonderful houseplant with green or green and yellow variegated leaves! Dracaena marginata is another favorite of the same family, and has narrow green leaves edged in red. They’re a hardy bunch – and you will often see them in used in offices and shopping mall planters, where people throw drinks on them and toddlers pull their leaves. They don’t need much care - When the leaves get dusty, wipe gently with a soft, damp cloth or put under a shower. Both Dracaenas’ grow in low-light condition – not in brilliant sun! Yes, they can go outside in the summer, but be careful not to put it in the direct sun – under a shady tree might be good. It requires temperatures about 70-75 degrees, so be very careful as the nights begin to cool in the fall. Normal house temperatures are fine all winter. The size of the pot needs to be proportional to the height of the plant – how does it look? But it also has to be heavy enough to keep the plant from tipping over! When you transplant, you might want to use a decorative, ceramic pot – or stand the plastic pot inside a heavy decorative pot – just make sure that you maintain the drainage. Water lightly – over watering can cause leaf drop and cane rot – don’t allow it to stand in a saucer of water. Because it must drain well, pot it in a light soil mix – or mix in sand and/or perlite to aid drainage. Did you know that Dracaenas were one of the plants studied by NASA and were found to help clean the air? So the plant is healthy to have in the house! But it is toxic to cats and dogs – be careful to keep them out of their reach.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Are those Christmas paper whites that you force last month drooping now? Don’t bother to save the bulbs – they would need years in the garden to recuperate from being forced. If there are a few flowering stems left, cut them and put them in water – then into the compost heap with the bulbs and spent soil. Remember that the bulbs are toxic if pets or kids eat them – so bury them well.

January 31: Cold treated bulbs for displays, Lichen on oak tree, It works for her! Reader’s idea for root pruning African violet, Raccoons and skunks – and now, a groundhog in the middle of Lawrence!

Raccoons and skunks in Lawrence – and now, a groundhog!
Q: Hi Barbara, I live smack dab in the middle of Lawrence. I have a raccoon who visits every summer and bunks in the chimney of my garage, a skunk who visits every night and this year for the first time , a great big groundhog who ate approx. 30 of my variegated hostas(never touched the 30 or so solid green ones!) He also decimated my spinach and other leaf veggies. By mistake (and bad eyesight) I planted 6 habanera pepper plants which of course he did not touch. The peppers are now in my cellar, dried and awaiting use. Can I grind them and sprinkle around my garden to deter my visitors this summer? I certainly don't want to hurt the critters but I do want them to know that my produce AND hostas are out of bounds.
Sincerely, Mary Leavitt

A: Sounds like you could start a zoo in the middle of Lawrence!
Sure, you could carefully grind the peppers - watch your eyes during the process! Many commercial sprays are made of exactly these peppers as well as the even hotter varieties But it would have to be reapplied after every rain (the commercially made pepper sprays have a sticky base so they might last longer.)
Individually, the groundhog can be "relocated" if you can find the holes to his burrow! Stuff used cat litter down the holes, or rags soaked with ammonia - and he'll probably move to your neighbor's garden.....
The skunk is attracted to many of the grubs in the lawn and garden - which disappear, and go far underground when the ground finally freezes.....
The raccoon is also looking for food - it could be from your bird feeder or garbage can or any tender shoots that are still around - eliminate the food source or use a spray....
Repelling these creatures has to be done on several sensory levels: smell, touch, taste - and a product sold by Spay-n-Grow does it all - it's advertised to stay in place for weeks! And it can be used safely, according to directions, around kids and pets. Contact them at www.spray-n-grow.com......The spray, called Repels-All comes in ready-to-use, 32 oz.bottles. Their phone is 1-800-323-2363.
In addition to food, the critters are all looking for a warm place for the winter - so be sure to block any access points to your home or garage, including the easiest access of all, the chimney - there are chimney caps made for this purpose! These are all cute, fuzzy animals - but not when they destroy the garden or get into your warm, cozy house and cause huge amounts of damage!
But wait! Groundhog Day is this week- maybe you can trap the groundhog and charge admission.

Lichen on trees
Q: I have large trees in my yard, mostly oak, that are starting to be covered with a lime green/white moss type growth. do you know what it may be and if so will it damage the tree.
ABN

A: -Sounds like you have lichen growing on the tree - could it be described as paper thin rather than furry like moss? With the cool, damp weather we've had, all of these simple plants have thrived! They like the somewhat lower light levels of fall and winter - in fact, they don't thrive until the leaves are off the tree and the sunlight finally can reach the branches. Lichens are a fungus! Similar to mushrooms, the algae in the plant makes food for itself and the fungus. There are many species, which vary in size and shape and color. They are not parasites - you'll find them growing on stones and fences as well as trees. Lichens don't hurt trees and shrubs because they don't enter the inner bark where food is carried for the tree. And they don't cause disease. Lichens need only water and minerals to grow, which they get from water from rainwater or minerals which are air-borne. These tiny particles can, in large quantities, become poisonous to lichen and kill them. So lichens can be very useful in determining air pollution. Your lichens will probably disappear as the tree leafs out in spring - but they will reappear again if conditions are right, when leaves drop next fall. ....in the meantime, your tree won't be harmed - and you'll have a living barometer of the air quality in the area.

A: First of all, they have a huge garden budget!
These bulbs are forced – just like the ones you force in a cold frame, or in your refrigerator, only on a much larger scale. .. Cost of pre-chilled bulbs is about three times the cost of an un-chilled bulb. The choice of pre-chilled bulb varieties and colors is limited, unless your name is Disney – then you order exactly the ones you want in the late summer, and they’re chilled and ready for you after the first of the year... Remember, these bulbs are forced bulbs, prepared for a one-time bloom. These bulbs are cold-treated in holding rooms where the temperature and humidity can be carefully regulated – when they’re needed, they’re planted – and within weeks, they have flowers! Unless the bulbs have a naturally cold period the following year, and allowed to grow and mature foliage, they have to be dug and replaced (aka. dumped!) - they won’t grow and bloom a second year without weeks of chilling. Can you see the $$$’s mounting up? Some Zone 9- 10 Florida gardeners do this same thing on a much smaller scale, because they miss the bulbs which we can grow so easily and cheaply here in cold New England. It’s not quite as silly as it might seem: Florida growers can buy or treat these pre-chilled bulbs, plant them for the one season, then discard them – we do the same thing with our annual plants.
Cold-treated bulbs are now available to the home gardener for use in window boxes and other special displays, such as pots for a wedding or special events – they’re called Rapid Bloom bulbs, and cost about $24.00 for twelve hyacinths, $20, twelve tulips, or twenty-four crocus $19.00 . See the Rapid Bloom website for details.

It works for me!
From a reader: Her tip for making stubborn older African violet’s bloom again
Hello! I just read tonight's paper and your advice to the person with the African violet that won't bloom. I didn't know that they needed 8 hours of darkness- that's a great tip. Additionally I have another suggestion for her which worked wonderfully for me when my AV wouldn't bloom. I was told to cut approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the dirt (roots and all) from the bottom of the plant. Put a corresponding amount of fresh soil in the pot and replant the AV. Normal watering and light thereafter. In about 10-14 days new buds were coming up and it has bloomed continuously for the 6 months since. I don't know how frequently this could be done, or if it works for other blooming houseplants, but it has worked wonders for my plants and for my friends.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Groundhog Day 2007
Friday is Groundhog Day, also called Candlemas Day. An early legend says that, "For if the sun shines on Candlemas Day, so far will the snow swirl in May..." But Candlemas Day is even better known for groundhogs, those furry rodents who can destroy a garden in just a single night of foraging.
The most famous of all groundhogs is Punxsutawney Phil, whose sighting in Pennsylvania will be documented on TV on this cold February morning, when he will emerge from his heated burrow to predict the coming of spring – or not. In case any animal lovers are concerned, let me assure you that the antics of Phil – and the activities of the Inner Circle of the Punxsutawney Groundhog Club are well supervised. Of particular note is Phil’s size and condition as he emerges from hibernation –This is a sleek, fat and pampered groundhog, fur and teeth well-brushed, not an animal that has slept and fasted through the winter in a tree stump. The average groundhog weighs 12-15 pounds – Phil weighs about 20! Phil is fed a well-supervised diet under the auspices of his own special dietician – and the whole February second show is carefully controlled and regulated by the ASPCA – there is no room here for groundhog abuse!. But don’t Do you wonder how do they get Phil, the groundhog to appear on the second of February each year, at 11:00 am sharp, just as the photographers appear on the scene? It has been rumored for many years that the groundhog is routed, prodded out of his nice warm burrow by the nice people in Punxsutawney, whether he wants to come out or not.. WHY? Because the media have gathered in that place at that exact hour, and need to make deadlines - and we all know how prickly the media would be if they're kept standing around out in the cold of a February day in Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania - even if they're about to get a good story.

The celebration of Groundhog Day began long ago with Pennsylvania's earliest settlers. Punxsutawney held its first Groundhog Day in the 1800s. The first official trek to Gobbler's Knob was made on February 2, 1887. The story goes, Punxsutawney Phil was named after King Phillip. Prior to being called Phil, he was called Br'er Groundhog. And in Harrisburg, there is Gus, the Groundhog, who appears on TV working for the lottery!

Is global warming affecting Groundhog Day? Marmots, close cousins of the groundhog, are coming out of hibernation about 38 days earlier than they used to, due to global warming. April in the Rockies is almost two degrees warmer now than it was 23 years ago. So is Punxsutawney Phil an accurate forecaster of spring? A warm day in early February has nothing to do with whether winter is over. A Canadian researcher did a careful study and found that the groundhog gets it right about 37 percent of the time, about the same percentage as the National Weather Service – does that give you a clue as to accuracy?.

But what about the rest of the world? Does everyone believe that the only official groundhog is Punxatawney Phil? Indeed they do not!
In Canada, Wiarton Willie welcomes the early spring.
In Europe, the emergence of badgers and bears could signal the end of winter,
In Georgia, Beauregard Lee Groundhog, the Official Weather Prognosticator of the State of Georgia, will make his appearance.
Sun Prairie, Wisconsin, is the home of Jimmy the Groundhog, and that town lays claim to the title of the Groundhog Capital of the World!
Orthie the Groundhog, of Quarryville, Pennsylvania is seen by official sighting squads to announce his appearance. The squad’s sight and consult with live groundhogs in the woods ( – it sounds like a more democratic decision to me) – and the announcement then takes place at White Rock Lodge, along the banks of Octorara Creek.

If you live in Hawaii, today is also Groundhog Day – but there they are waiting the sighting of a mongoose! Why do they need to know that spring is on the way in Hawaii? They don’t – so if the mongoose sees his shadow, he just puts on his sunglasses and adds another layer of sunscreen – and goes back to the beach.

Are you tired of groundhog stories? Then forget the groundhog! Forget Punxsutawney! Travel instead to Big Run, Pennsylvania and you will find John London, who chooses to put more faith in a frog. According to Mr. London, the croak of a frog is more accurate than the shadow of a groundhog, and he and his friends have been keeping track of the first croak in a wetland near Penn Run since 1972.
”Harbingers of spring come in many guises,” he says. “Besides, our frogs don’t bite.”

No matter what happens, winter has about seven weeks to go. In about three weeks, the sun will have moved high enough in the sky to provide some serious melting and warmth. We’ll be watching Phil! But even if he sees his shadow, it will mean seven more weeks of winter! No matter what he sees, spring will arrive in just about six weeks – that’s April 20, the vernal equinox – and then it’s officially spring!