North Shore Gardener January 2008

Jan 2, 2008: Lemon Tree, Amaryllis Bulbs, Fertilizing Pots

Fertilizing pots
Q: After gardening for many years, (many times not successful), this is probably a silly question, but here goes:
When fertilizing and mixing a whole gallon, how much should be given to each container plant or does it depend on the size of the container. Also, I know we shouldn't fertilize when the temp is over eighty, so is it ok to do it at night when the temp goes down. I must sound like a real dunce, because I probably have been doing it wrong all these years. It is just lately that I have switched to all containers because my knees won't take the bending anymore.
Thanks again.

A: Temperature is certainly important - but even more important is making sure the pots are well-watered before you water with your liquid fertilizer. Soak the plants first - then give them a second drink, just enough so the liquid fertilizer starts to drain out of the bottom of the pot - that way the plant won't be so thirsty that it will gulp the fertilizer - and you won't waste the fertilizer liquid either. Be careful not to stain the deck or floor with fertilizers that over-run the pot.
Watering in the evening is fine if you can avoid getting the foliage wet - that's what can cause mildew and rot. Just pour the liquid fertilizer into the pot very carefully. If foliar feeding, ( probably done in the sink or bathtub these winter days),do it early in the day, when there is time for the foliage to dry out before night. I put small plants, like African violets, under the kitchen exhaust fan – and they’re dry in an hour or two.
No excuses needed for your bad knees! There's nothing wrong with allowing yourself a little help! Old and young, we all need to look for ways to make gardening easier! Just keep gardening, however you choose do it!

Amaryllis bulbs
Q: I have some very large amaryllis bulbs that have flowered for three years. This year several were spectacular. I have had them in my cellar for about 5 weeks while allowing the greens to die back. Yesterday I went down to cut off the dead leaves and take the bulbs out of the pots and found that three of the bulbs are starting to grow new flower stalks. Usually I wrap them in bubble wrap for the winter while I go to Florida and start them in the spring. Now I don't know if I have to bring it up to light and water or will I get a flower next year if I take it out of the pot for the winter?
By the way, the large bulbs each had two small bulbs grow on the side that had some small leaves this summer. Do I leave them attached for another year or separate them from the mother?
-
A: Are you sure that they are flower buds, not new leaves that are emerging? You can tell the difference: A new leaf is rounded at the tip, and a new flower stalk is notched at the tip.
If they are indeed flower stalks, I suggest that you pot them up and give them to a neighbor to take care of when you go to Florida- and they’ll enjoy them!
Of course, depending on when you leave for Florida, the plants could bloom for you - then a kind neighbor could feed and water them 'til you get home.

As you know, in order to bloom, the bulb should go through the whole cycle of growing lots of green foliage after blooming, then dying down and drying out, and resting dry in a dark, cool place for about 10-12 weeks - then be brought back to life with the addition of water, warmth and light. I don't think that bubble-wrapping them while they are in this growth stage would save the bulbs – they’d probably rot..

I'm so glad to hear that you're saving and growing your amaryllis - for so many years, people looked at the bulbs as disposable holiday plants, enjoyed only while in flower and then trashed! Now more and more gardeners are growing these bulbs to a really large size and reaping the joy and benefits of multiple bloom stalks through the years. The choice to divide the little bulblets or not is up to you: do it gently in the spring and pot them up separately, or allow them to grow into a cluster – either way, the small bulbs will bloom beautifully in a few years.

Lemon trees
Q: I have two large lemon trees that I grew from seed from a lemon at the grocery store. They are both about ten to twelve years old and have never bloomed or produced fruit. Is there a particular fertilizer I could use to stimulate flowering or is it a lost cause because of the seed source? Also, these trees will be coming in the house soon and I'm wondering if this might be a good time to prune them back for the winter.
Thanks for your help!

A: Your lemon trees sound wonderful! Since the seed came from grocery store fruit, and you didn't do the pollination yourself, you really don't know exactly what you have until they bloom and fruit - but they are probably self-pollinated since the fruit would have come from a lemon orchard. But you'll know for sure when they fruit.
Lemon trees take years to fruit from seed, some taking as long as 15 years! So a little more patience will be necessary. Fertilize in the spring with a tomato bloom booster - otherwise, use an acid formula fertilizer meant for azaleas, and gardenias and citrus plants.
Lemon trees should be pruned from the very early years - now just do a little shaping when necessary in the early spring before new growth starts - never more than 1/4 at a time!! (Using this formula, it would take 4 years to do a complete, drastic pruning) Any drastic pruning will further delay bloom!

This winter, you may need to use some artificial light to supplement the weak winter light - citrus plants need about 10-12 hours of sunlight a day to thrive and grow- though they can survive with less light. Keep temperatures around 70 to encourage growth, below 50 and they’ll stop growing, and near freezing, they may die. Let them go out in the summer, where they can enjoy an occasional shower or two every week.

Now, I hate to disappoint you - but I have a large lemon tree that was given to me by a reader who was moving to Florida - I've had it over 15 years, and still no flowers!!! But I keep hoping and trying!
Let me know what happens to your trees over the years......

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
This Saturday is January 5th - Twelfth Night. And on this night, your house must remove all the Christmas greens –it’s officially the end of the Christmas season. People once believed that spirits lived in the greens and by bringing greens into the house you provided them a safe haven for the winter season. But once this period was over, the greens had to go back outdoors to release the spirits – if you kept them in any longer, it was very unlucky. In fact, if the spirits were not release back outdoors they could not grow anymore – and spring would not come! And we certainly don’t want to be blamed for that! If decorations are left up by mistake, then they must be left up for the entire year. Use your old greens as garden mulch, or decorate the tree with popcorn and cranberry garlands for the birds, but get the greens out of the house. Whatever you do, don’t burn them in the fireplace: by now, they are tinder-dry and you could start a chimney fire or worse. Happy New Year!

Jan 9, 2008 : Plants from Supermarket, E. Coli/Manure, Heirloom Tomatoes, Orchids and Gas Leak

Plants from supermarkets
Q: I purchase plants at the local DeMoulas market for an elderly parent. I’m trying to purchase some plants which last a little while. Some of the recent purchases have been Primula Obconica, Gerbera Daisy, Cyclamen. The plants have big leaves, try to water within reason but eventually they die after two weeks to a month. Bought an Irish Shamrock plant, maybe because of the luck part have had good luck with it, plus African violets. As none are perennials any tips on what would be good plants to purchase, even though your selection is limited to what they have.
Enjoy your column
B.H.

A: What a nice thing to do!
Unfortunately, you have chosen some of the more difficult florist plants, plants that are sold more for "gift occasions” rather than house plants - and are not necessarily plants you would want to grow on without some knowledge and care:
Cyclamen blooms in a cool place and then goes dormant,
Gerbera requires a lot of sun and warmth, and can get buggy…
Primroses are a seasonal cool weather bloomer – then they go outdoors later in spring.
Your success with African violets and oxalis makes me think the home is warm, and humid with some indirect light, although oxalis does better in a cooler place with constant moisture and filtered light, it grows almost anywhere!.....

A few suggestions:
Buy for the season – enjoy the plants while in bloom, then discard and replace them - or take them home under YOUR care after they begin to wilt! (Note: A living flowering plant is always a great value! A potted plant lasts weeks longer that a bunch of cut flowers!)
Consider interesting foliage plants, like ivies, philodendrons and coleus - with variegated leaves; they can be as lovely as those that flower....
Right now, mums are on the market - both annual (florist's mums) and perennials, which are great for a burst of color indoors, then can be planted outdoors. Indoor care requires watering and sunlight....
Azaleas - best in a cool home and some can be planted out....
Various herbs- a sunny window and the leaves smell so good!
Also consider geraniums, if the home is warm and sunny; scented geraniums are great!
If African violets do well, consider a streptocarpus, or gloxinia, both close relatives of the African violet, but with much bigger flowers...
Bulbs like paperwhite narcissus, hyacinth and amaryllis will be available from winter through early spring.....
Supermarkets are convenient and often have a grand choice of plants - but I would strongly suggest that you also get out to a near-by garden center/greenhouse or the garden dept of Home Depot and see what is available for your particular type of home climate - temperature, light exposure, degree of care are all factors you need to know before buying lasting houseplants...

Safety of manure
Q: I was just reading an article on E.coli, and it said that manure could contaminate vegetables. This kind of worried me since I always add manure to my garden, this being the traditional organic way to go.
Obviously, fresh manure is a hazard, but does the E.coli die off after the manure is composted to a certain temperature, or aged for a certain amount of time?
What do you think?

A: Certainly E.coli could be a problem - use only completely and well-composted manure on a garden.
Compost must reach a temperature of 130-140 degrees in two cycles to kill pathogens, then allowed to cure for at least 4 more months after that. Manure, even well-composted manure, should be added no sooner than 4 months before harvest: that means it’s only safe to add manure in the fall/winter in preparation for the next year’s planting. And of course, wash all produce thoroughly! Use only potable water for watering, especially leafy vegetables (remember last summer's spinach contamination recall??)
It might be safest to use commercially composted. dry manure.

Heirloom tomatoes
Q: Over the past few years, I have converted to growing heirloom tomatoes, which I love, not only for their shapes and colors, but for the wonderful variations in flavors which modern tomatoes don't have. Am I setting myself up for trouble in the garden because of tomato wilt and other soil viruses which the hybrids protect us from? And I know I should rotate planting areas for my crops – but when I plant the next year I only have room to move the row ten feet.
Thank you!
P.- the Guerrilla Gardener

A: You can somewhat protect yourself by buying varieties which are disease resistant - they are designated by the letters V (verticillium), F (fusarium), or N (nematodes) after the variety name.
I don't think you are asking for trouble by growing heirloom varieties. Yes, moving crops from year to year is a good idea - but sometimes near-impossible in a home garden. Instead, keep the area weed free and remove all dead or dying plant materials, including rotten fruit, and destroy by burning. Till the area thoroughly every year. Growing a cover crop such as a grain or clover is also useful.
And avoid planting tomatoes where peppers, eggplant or cucurbits have been planted in the past few years.

Orchids – and gas leaks!
Q: I have a question for you: I have had orchids in my home for many years and have very good luck growing them and bringing them back, if you know what I mean.
Recently I had many plants in bloom in an area where they have always been and within 2 or 3 days the blossoms on all 5 plants died.
I have had a very faint smell of gas in my kitchen even though the plants are in the living room and wonder if that could be the problem.
Thank you for any advice you can give me.
K.C., Marblehead, MA

This letter scared me! I immediately called this reader to tell her to call the gas company – gas leaks are so dangerous, (and we need every reader we can get!)

A: Many plants are sensitive to natural gas, some to a greater degree than others.... (Ferns are among the most sensitive.) In Victorian days when homes were lit by gas, many plants wouldn't survive in the parlor.
But there are other sources of pollutants that can bother your plants: Was there any construction done in the house this year? Chemicals from adhesives used to install tile and countertops, acid baths used to resurface bathtubs, some building materials, as well as some paints and solvents can all be culprits - and they don't do your family any good to breathe them, either.
But to be absolutely sure about the gas smell, please have your local gas company check your home for leakage - they have the proper meters and gauges to do it and you could save more than just your orchids!

Follow-up:
The next day, we called the reader back – and were delighted to hear that she had called the gas company. They determined that there was a sulphur buildup at the stove -but didn’t think that would hurt the orchids….I disagree….but more importantly, I knew we wouldn’t lose a reader!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………
Time to clean out the old catalogs!
Out with the old! -In with the new! Well, maybe not all of them! Catalogs serve as valuable references – but at least you can organize them, into neat piles or bins: one for seed and bulbs catalogs, one for garden equipment and ornamental supplies or any special interests -
You’ll never miss the catalogs if they are dated before 2003- or 2002, so toss them out…….you’ll make the recycle people very happy!.
You’ll keep/might keep the recycle people very busy….

Jan 16, 2008:

Pots Growing Mushrooms, Storing Dahlias, Watering Beehive Strawberry Jar, Slug slime

Slug slime
Q: My son and daughter-in-law moved to Lake Oswego, Oregon last year from Cal. The area is so lush all the time because of many days of rain. However, with all that moisture comes a lot of big slugs. They don't mind them because they haven't done any damage, but the shiny trails they leave of their plank board siding won't come off with any of the usual cleaners. Normally, I can give advice on pests, but usually that involves getting rid of them. Cleaning these trails is not in my experience. Thanks for any help you can give, I enjoy your column very much.
S.

A: I think this is the first time I've been asked how to remove slug trails from siding!
My only experience has been removing slug slime from my hands after hand-picking the pests from the hosta: A solution of warm water and vinegar works well - and I don't see why it wouldn't work on siding as well. If the trails have dried on the siding and are stubborn, maybe renting a power washer, and using the vinegar and water solution would do the job.
But your son needs something safe to deter the slugs in the future: a band of something very coarse, like eggshells, or a splintery wood mulch, or a band or sharp gravel, placed around the house would probably do the trick. Also, some gardeners use a barrier of copper tape around an area they wish to protect. Be sure to prune back any foliage which touches the house- slugs can't jump, but they can climb branches and slither from leaf to leaf.

- A letter from innovative reader
Q: Just read the reader's tip re beehive pots and PVC pipe in the center to hold water [Salem News, 7/18. I have a suggestion:
Prior to filling with dirt, what about using a cardboard insert inside the pipe? Then toss in the dirt and remove the cardboard?
What I have in mind is the tube from bathroom tissue or paper towels. If too wide, you could slice the tube and roll it or else squeeze it a bit to insert it. Seems to me this or something similar would minimize the dirt entering the pipe?
When you remove the cardboard, after adding dirt and before watering, you could still add the tubes to your recycling pickup.
Read you faithfully. Your column is one of the highlights of the Salem News.

A: -Sounds like a great idea! I love hearing about the innovative ways our readers solve problems - usually with common household items! And your idea is recyclable, too - I like that!

Storing dahlias
I just read your recent instructions about storing dahlia bulbs. You state that they should not touch, but mine came out of the ground in a very large clump, all tangled together by little roots and soil. Should I snip each tuber away from the clump? Won't that harm the little roots?
I brushed off as much soil as I could, then let them dry in the basement, and then removed the rest of the soil, as well as I could. I've stored them in a roomy cardboard box, covered with dry peat moss, as my gardening book suggested. I was concerned about storing them in plastic bags--I was afraid that would contribute to mold if there was any moisture left in them, although that's what I did store some tubers with some leftover packing sawdust in last year from bulbs that I had delivered.
They were fine for re-planting this past summer, but multiplied so much I couldn't separate them when I dug them up two weeks ago. Hence my concern about moisture from the soil remaining in the clump.

Thank you very much,
S.M., Beverly, MA

A: Some gardeners do separate the tubers, being sure there are eyes on every piece.....the tiny roots aren't important - the eyes are! Be sure that every piece has two or three eyes on it.
If any kind of tubers are too moist when packed away, they can rot and mildew - be sure to dry them before packing, whatever method you use - and dust and cut edges with a fungicide (let dry again if it's not a powdered fungicide!)

I have avoided plastic, too - but there have been some studies done with wrapping the tubers - separately- and completely air tight in Saran wrap - the beauty of this method is that you don't have to check them for rot as often over the winter (I think I'd only try this the first time with a few well-dried tubers!) Complete soil removal is necessary - gently hose to wash the tubers - then dry completely...

Usually, a moist bulb or tuber, stored touching another tuber could cause rot (like the proverbial rotten apple that spoils the whole barrel) - but if the air circulation is good, or a fungicide has been applied, might not-
Thank you for your note!
Now it's time to forget the tubers for a while and get out the snow shovel!

Pots growing mushrooms
Q: I read your column faithfully every week and have a question about my houseplants. I repotted a couple of them and they have developed some fluorescent yellow mushroom-like things growing in the soil. The plants are peace lily, hoya, and a small tree not sure what kind. Any information would be appreciated I could not find any info on the internet.
Thank You. I look forward to hearing from you.
R.M.

A: Those fluorescent mushroom-like things probably are just that! The mushroom spores were in the soil you used to transplant.
We always recommend using a sterile bagged soil for containers so things like this don't appear in the pot - but sometimes even with bought, bagged soil the spores still get into the soil:
-Was the bag of soil damaged in any way, providing an access for the spores? A tiny tear from a fork-lift truck on a loading dock could be the way they got in….
-Was it an already open bag of soil you used, and then saved, maybe from last spring or even longer? It's easy for spores and bugs and even weed seed to get in if the package has been opened...
-Did you use garden soil? Then it's an easy guess - the spores were in the soil.
Remove the mushrooms you can see, if they bother you, or if you have young children or curious pets in the house. Cultivate the soil very lightly - and repeat if the mushrooms appear again......or repot the plants in fresh soil, being careful to clean the pot thoroughly.
You could also try drenching the soil with a fungicide.

This week’s dirt……………………………………………………
Re-hang your feeders, or place new ones near a window where you can watch a birdie circus all winter! High winds and ice storms and squirrels may have damaged to birdfeeders, so repair or replace them – the birds need your help to get through this winter – and we’ll need their help to keep them here to catch bugs in the garden next summer.

Jan 23, 2008: Antidessicants, Abutilon - Flowering Maple, Salt for Ice Melting, Mother-in-Law's Tongue

Salt substitutes - you can forget the salt this year!
Q: I’ve been salting like crazy this winter as the snow layers over the frozen slush, then melt, then freezes, and then it rains – so I shovel the mush – and the salt stuff – and I know it’s just concentrating in my garden and lawn. But I don’t want to fall and break a hip – what can I use safely?

A: Your doctor will tell you to watch the salt – and so will I! Forget salt! For traction, keep a bucket of sand or a bag of kitty litter near the door and driveway, and even in the trunk of the car – both are good for traction but you might need also need a melter:–– Think about how you can get rid of ice his winter or at least make it safe without damaging the lawn and gardens and the land and water supplies around you….
A small amount of urea, found in fertilizers as potassium will melt snow and ice – but use it with caution – you can overdue it even if it’s a fertilizer.
The best way to clear a safe path is to shovel or sweep the area clean, then apply sand or litter for traction, and a small amount of urea as a melter. Your garden will thank you….

Anti-dessicants
Q: This has sure been a winter meant to damage plants! What is that stuff you’re supposed to spray on plants to help them survive the goofy weather?

A: It sure has been goofy – and there’s more to come-
I don’t know of this is what you mean – but it sure wouldn’t hurt! I think it ‘s an antidessecant you’re talking about – it’s meant to help plants, particularly the broader leafed rhodys and azaleas from losing moisture through the bitterly cold and dry weather
Rhododendrons are nature’s thermometers - their leaves begin to cup and curl at the edges when temperatures drop to below 35 °F. At 25 °F, the leaves will be curled very tightly and begin to droop – it’s the way the plant reduces water loss from its leaves during cold, dry, windy weather. Plants will recover when the weather warms again.
Spray anti desiccants on a warmish day if possible-
Any left over desiccant spray can be used on other kinds of plants – it’s great to use on any shrub or perennial you transplant this summer.

Flowering Maples
Q: I have two flowering maples. One is a large, very healthy plant with red flowers. The other is a newer, smaller plant with variegated leaves and salmon flowers. The smaller one has recently developed black spots on the leaves, which then turn yellow and drop off. The problem seems to be getting worse. I am keeping the two plants well away from each other to prevent the problem from spreading. Do you have any idea what this could be and how to cure it? I don't see any signs of insects and it is not spreading to the peace lily and kalanchoe I have nearby. Thanks for any advice you may have.
J. M., Beverly, MA

A: Your abutilon - they're called flowering "maples" because the leaf looks like a maple tree leaf - might have developed a fungus on the leaves, like black spot (you see black spot on roses during damp weather) - did you repot it recently? Did you use an old bag of soil, which could have been contaminated?

These plant diseases often develop from conditions that are overly cool and damp, which is exactly the best climate for the plant! And yes, they can be contagious. The usual problems with abutilons are scale, whitefly and spider mites - are you sure you haven't overlooked a bug?

Try using a spray fungicide - Safer's makes a good one for use in the house - read directions carefully or take the plants into the cellar or garage for a few minutes to spray, being sure to cover the undersides of the leaves...and improve the air circulation indoors with a fan.

Abutilons are tropical evergreen plants, related to hollyhocks and hibiscus and other mallows, and make delightful house and patio plants in our climate -there are even some with variegated leaves - some bloom continuously through the year. The plants are also known as Chinese Bellflower, or Chinese Lantern, although they are actually native to Brazil. Abutilons can get very large, so pruning is necessary in the spring - plants can be pruned back as much as 1/3 every spring. -And keep them pot-bound, unless you want a large tree!

Propagating Mothers-in Law’s Tongue
Q: I took some cuttings from a friends M in L – it was the beautiful green kind with the yellow stripe on the edge. They rooted easily in a pot on the windowsill without any help. But surprise! All of the new shoots came up as all green! They’re very lovely and healthy, but I wanted the yellow stripe. Is this unusual?

A: Not unusual at all! True color of Mother-in-Law’s Tongue (Sansevieria) can only be propagated by division – so you’ll have to persuade you friend to give you a root division – a leaf is not enough.
And by the way, multiple cuttings can be made from one leaf: Cut the long leaf into 6 inch pieces but remember to root them with the right end down in the soil - don’t reverse them, or they won’t root! The capillaries in the leaf are a one-way street and only take up nourishment and moisture from one end to the other.
Did you know that a Mother-in Law’s Tongue can bloom? You may smell the flowers before you see them! A sweet almost overpowering smell will fill the room, usually after dark – and if you look hard, you will see a stalk of tiny, delicate, creamy flowers hidden in the tall foliage – you’ll want to call your neighbors in to see it!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Remove foil wrap on holiday plants – or at least punch holes in the bottom so the plant can drain – soggy plants won’t live as long as well-drained plants – and the wet soil can be a source of gnats and other bugs-
Keep plants away from all heat sources: away from the heat vent, top of TV’s, top of refrigerators – they’ll last far longer.

Jan 30, 2008: Stag Fern, Snow/Ice on Trees and Shrubs, Tomato Seeds

Tomato starting
Q: Every years i start some tomato plants in my house but they never come out nice and strong what i do wrong.
Thank you

A: Without knowing all of the details about how you are starting your tomato plants, I would guess that you start them indoors too soon. Everyone is eager to have the first tomatoes - but plants from seed don't like to be kept indoors any longer than necessary - start you tomato plants 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area-

You can find your last frost date by searching fro a frost schedule by zone on the computer – or there are schedules in some seed catalogs-

Germinate the seeds at about 75-90 degrees - they like it warm! After they sprout, reduce growing temperature to 60-70.
Give the plants lots of light - if you don't have enough sunny windows, you'll have to use grow lights to supplement the sun-
When the plants have 2-3 true leaves, transplant to individual four inch pots (or start them in individual pots and eliminate this transplanting)
Use a diluted fertilizer weekly beginning after about a month of growth...
If you are a smoker, don't smoke near your plants and don't handle them before washing hands thoroughly - they're very susceptible to the tobacco virus.
Don't be too eager to move the plants outdoors until the ground is warm and all danger of frost has past - you won't want to ruin your work!
Now - does this sound like what you are doing with your tomato seeds??

Write me if you have any other questions-and thank you for your letter -
I know it's really spring when I get the first letter about tomato plants!! Thank you!

Snow and ice on shrubs
Q: The past few storms have been beautiful! But I think my trees and shrubs may be suffering! There has been little melting time between the storms, and many of the branches are still snow covered and some are bent to the ground. Should I be removing this layer of ice and snow or should I just let it be and let nature take care of it?

A: Of course you can give Mother Nature a hand – but do it very gently. If you’re removing just soft new snow, a broom can be used or even your well-mittened hands – just gently brush it off – please don’t use a metal shovel!
If it’s frozen snow or ice, it’s another story: if it can’t be removed easily it’s best to leave it alone until it defrosts itself naturally – you’ll avoid broken branches.
If larger branches or small trees are frozen to the ground, sometimes they can be set free by hand or even with a non-chemical ice melter. Most small trees will spring back at the first sign of a thaw. If not, you might have to use some support in the spring. The word is careful with snow removal – when in doubt, leave it alone.

Stag fern
Hi Barbara, I read your column all the time and love your advice.
I am thinking of purchasing a staghorn fern and I am wondering about their care-
I have not seen any in this area and wonder if there is a reason for that?
Thanks-
G.G., Gloucester, MA

A: Staghorn fern, (also called Elk’s Horn fern, Antelope fern,) is one of the most prehistoric ferns that remain on our earth! Named for the split leaf, which looks like the horns of a stag, this type of fern has been growing on earth since 3-4 million BC, when ferns dominated the landscape and even before dinosaurs roamed. Ferns were one of the earliest forms of plant life to evolve.
Stags are epiphytic, which means they take most of their nourishment from the air and water around them, rain and mist – their roots are used only for gripping onto another living surface – but they are not parasites, they only need the host plant for stability and security, not for nourishment –

Staghorn ferns are considered difficult to grow in the home, mainly because of watering and humidity levels – they are best grown mounted on a rough board. They aren’t cheap plants. The most common varieties are sometimes available even at he home improvement center garden shop – look for them in the spring-a small plant might be priced around $15 and a large mounted specimen can cost hundreds of dollars.

Bright light but no direct sun is ideal. Your stag can handle some direct sun, but early morning sun only. In the wild, they always have a leaf canopy over them producing broken shade...so approximate this condition as best as possible. Do not allow windy conditions to buffet the plant.

Feed your stag with organic food such as fish emulsion fertilizer diluted to about one teaspoon in a gallon of water, about three times a year. Another good trick that some growers use is to place a banana peel (peel only) behind the stag and the board it’s planted on. They like the potassium!

Most people over- water their stags-
Water about once a week or so and soak thoroughly .The water will pour through quickly so you'll have to apply a lot of water to get a little wetness in the moss, if you have let it dry out too much. If you keep the moss slightly moist, this will not be a problem. Water with rain water if possible. Collect the rain off your roof in a bucket for your stag. In the home, take the whole planted board and soak it in a bucket of room temperature water about once a week – don’t overwater!

Temperature needed is higher than many houseplants – 60-70 degrees or higher – if you grow them outdoors in summer, watch especially for the falling night temperatures.

The brownish, velvety masses which sometimes appear on the underside of the fronds are not a colony of bugs – they’re the fern spores, which develop into new plants – but culture is difficult.

Stag ferns are well worth the extra care you’ll have to give them – you’ll be growing a piece of prehistoric history in your window. It’s worth the trouble!
Good luck! And keep in touch! Let me know if you have any other questions….

This week’s dirt……………………………………………………
Spring is officially onit’s way – we’ve got the first signs - Flower show tickets - and tomatoes

Flower Show tickets are on sale this week!