North Shore Gardener May 2007

Lupins

Photo: BJones

May 2: Bee disappearance, Peonies, Rhody damage

Rhody damage
Q: I have a 5 year old rhody that looks brown, omg! What can I do to help it along this spring? It looks like its dead. C.

A: If the leaves are totally dry and brown, you may have lost the plant. It should have been well- established, since you say it is 5 yrs.old - but the winter has taken a real toll on plants that were growing in unprotected areas. Sub-zero temperatures, drying winds, and no snow cover are the culprits. If there is new growth, fertilize as usual with an acid-formula fertilizer, and water well though the summer - then protect the plant better next winter by covering and consider spraying with an anti-desiccant like Wilt-Pruf to prevent drying. No matter how bad the plant looks, the roots may be alive. Wait a bit longer - and then prune out any wood that's totally dead. If new growth doesn't appear, indeed you've lost it - and will have to replace it, taking care next winter to protect the new plant. But this year, don't cut in down fast!

Peonies
Q: Last year I planted 2 peonies (Sarah Bernhardt). They grew and leafed to about 10", but no buds or blossoms. They are both in warm, airy gardens. Is there something I should do this year to help bring blossoms or do they simply not flower the first year? They are both above ground now- about 2-3". Many thanks, A.

A: Peonies can be slow to establish themselves and start blooming - the first few years, blooms will be small and the stems short - it can take as long as 5-6 years to fully establish. I don't know who you bought the plants from last year, but the roots may have been quite small. When peonies are divided, there should be about 6-8 eyes per root section. Your planting location sounds fine - peonies require all day sun and good air circulation. I assume you amended the soil with manure, and took the time to loosen the soil to about 24" - they're going to live there for many years, so do it right! Plant the roots with eyes 2" below the surface of the soil - no deeper, or they'll never flower! I hope you’ve allowed plenty of space between the plants, and plenty of space from other plants - peonies don't like competition from other woody plants! Allow a 2 foot margin from other plants in the garden. Fertilize every two years with a 5-10-5 fertilizer, keep well-watered, and mulch well in the fall - and I think you'll see flowers in the next season - and more every year after. I'm sure you know that peonies are very long lasting perennials, often lasting for generations.

Disappearance of bees
Q: We are especially concerned. We have always noted the first appearance of bees each spring on the snow drops and crocuses. They were present last year, A-OK, as soon as the first blossoms appeared. This year NOTHING...not a single bee. My mother lives across the street from me in the Riverdale section of Gloucester. We have spent a lot of time looking for bees in our & neighboring yards. Not a bee to be found....not regular honey bees, not the tiny wild bees, nothin'. Saw one fly. When it got warm in January (& mom's quince bush started to bloom), we were worried that the bees would be coming out too early, but we saw none & thought all was well. Obviously, something is very wrong. We went from plenty of bees up through fall 2006 to zero bees in Spring 2007. I wonder how many communities in Massachusetts are affected. Perhaps your readers could shed some light on this...it's a serious problems for anyone hoping to have a vegetable garden this year, at the very least!
D.M., Gloucester

A: Here are a few "non-answers" to your mom's concerns about the honeybees - the whole truth is that no one really knows why they've disappeared - it's probably a combination of events - but something has to be done about it!!!

Some 15 worried beekeepers convened in Florida this month to brainstorm with researchers how to cope with the extensive bee losses. Investigators are exploring a range of theories, including viruses, a fungus and poor bee nutrition. It could just be that the bees are stressed out. Bees are being raised to survive a shorter off-season, to be ready to pollinate once the blooms begins in February. That has most likely lowered their immunity to viruses. Mites have also damaged bee colonies, (culprits of the bee termination are two mites, the varroa and tracheal, that attack the bees within colonies) The insecticides used to try to kill mites are harming the ability of queen bees to spawn as many worker bees. The queens are living half as long as they did just a few years ago. ....this could be the problem, particularly in areas where certain dangerous pesticides are still allowed...... Researchers are also concerned that the willingness of beekeepers to truck their colonies from coast to coast, following crop pollination needs, could also be adding to bees' stress, helping to spread viruses and mites and otherwise accelerating whatever is afflicting them. But raising and trucking huge numbers of bees and hives from crop to crop can be very profitable! Average cost to "Rent-a-Hive" is about $125. per hive! And it takes hundreds of hives to pollinate acres of a commercial crop...we need the bee keepers to produce good crops. Researchers are also studying the possible effects of a group of pesticides to see if they are somehow affecting bees' innate ability to find their way back home. In the meantime, all we, the small, individual gardeners can do is to plant more bee-friendly crops and flowers in our gardens and hope this bee epidemic will pass......

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
As days grow warmer, check depth of landscape mulches – the correct depth is 2-4 inches deep over the area but having no plant contact – mulch around the plant but don’t smother it.
Why bother to mulch? A well- placed mulch will look neat, retain moisture, and save hours of weeding the summer. In vegetable beds it can help keep crops clean…it will reduce mud splashing during rain or watering...

May 9: Column 24th anniversary! May 1983, Memorial planting in red, Easy tools -reader won’t give up her garden!

This week marks the 24th year of North Shore Gardener - that’s been 1248 weeks of writing about plants – and hasn’t it been fun!!
We love talking to you about plants! Thank you for reading us for the last 24 years. Drop us a note anytime – we’re here for fast answers.
Keep growing!
BB

Reader says “I won’t give up my garden!”
Q: Last winter I managed to slip and fall and break my arm and shoulder on an ice patch – wouldn’t you know? There was just one tiny patch of ice on the driveway and I managed to find it. I’m going to need some suggestions for some ways which will make my gardening a little less complicated. For this summer at least – I can make the plans simpler and scale down the planting and cross some of the major projects off the list but how can I make normal chores easier, too? Help, please! I won’t give up my garden.

A: Spoken like a true gardener! No need to abandon the garden. Gardening is for everyone. No matter what your limitations, whether they be permanent or temporary, you don’t have to give up gardening! You may have to change the way you garden – but don’t give it up!
Manufacturers of garden tools/products are beginning to take notice! And they’re finally acknowledging the fact that most of us need a little help with the garden chores. Some of us are getting a bit older -That doesn’t mean only us older gardener but the boomers who have more time and are the new generation of young gardeners – we all need help! – and want to make gardening easier. Some of these items might help you, this year and next:

Look for lighter weight tools – better shaped handles more comfortable – far easier on the wrist and hands - whether you have arthritis – or just get tired planting dozens of plants in the garden- Burpee has a whole line of simple hand tools with handles for either right or left hands - or both – and they have bright colors so they can be seen easily.

Lighter pots – I once thought that clay pots were the only thing to grow plants in – still love them, but just can’t lift an 18” clay pot full of wet soil! Wonderful plastics now – don’t look like a thin inexpensive grower’s pot, but rather like the stone textures of a fine piece of Italian pottery. They’re lightweight and colorful. And the added bonus –they won’t crack and break if left out over the winter – or dropped or knocked over….and they less expensive than clay or ceramic. And to the plant’s benefit, containers can be moved around the steps or deck or porch to follow the sun or shade.
Look for tools that are lighter – and have better- shaped handles that are far more comfortable. And they’re not just “girlie /women’s tools” – they’re meant to make gardening easier for anyone who gardens.
Manufacturers are really listening to us – no one wants to give up the joy of gardening because of age or illness or injury - we won’t give up growing plants, not even for a week!
Container gardening is perfect choice for time or energy restrains as well as physical limitations – containers are not just flowerpots: Containers come in many shapes and sizes and materials. Last year, we helped a gardener with MS who wanted to grow vegetables and flowers, and vines – and found her a raised table with an 8” deep box on top for her garden; it allowed her to continue gardening, even from a wheelchair. She grew carrots and lettuce and tomatoes as well as flowers. The table garden was perfect for this lady, but think how you could also use it and set pots at table height and garden in a chair…..much easier than working on your knees!

A rolling garden seat on pneumatic tires is old stuff – they’ve been around for years - this year, they’ve added a steering wheel so you don’t have to get up to reposition it for every turn you make. Not just for gardening, you can use it indoors this winter when you’re working in low areas, such as cupboard cleaning, or furniture refinishing or painting – and Hubby with a stiff back may want to borrow it to scrub the wheels of his car.

I’m a tall gardener and I appreciate longer handles .Many tools are being made with longer as well as shorter handles, custom lengths suitable for smaller beds as well as container gardening. Larger tools like shovels are being made in aluminum - lightweight and strong. Look for shovels with a serrated edge –it’s a big help and can ease biting through hard, rocky soil, and roots. ….and how about using it for dividing tough perennials?

Hedge trimmers come with a vacuum attachment to vacuum up the trimmings as you prune a hedge….Pole pruners are a wonderful aid and keep you off of ladders - if you have a lot of pruning to do, maybe you need one with a gas or electric motor. But they’re heavy – be sure to test the weight and balance and handle grips by giving all new tools a test drive at the store!
You have the time this year to do some garden sitting this year and enjoy the flowers and insects that inhabit your habitat. Take care of yourself – remember that the weeds/ won’t run away! Keep gardening for your good health!

Memorial planting in red
Q: My dad has read your column in the paper and would like to use your expertise. What is a hearty perennial that will bloom around Memorial Day? My dad is a senior Italian who feels compelled to decorate his parents' headstone each Memorial Day. Physically, it has become more difficult. It is a sunny spot, without shade, and it would have to be a somewhat care-free plant. My dad insists that the color must be red. I'm not sure about height restrictions. What my dad would prefer is an in-ground plant that would come up every year. He tried the basket thing in front of the stone but didn't care for it. Is there a plant that would grow to bloom around Memorial Day and then be able to be mowed? "A guy" (that's how my dad refers to himself) was thinking about planting bulbs. At the cemetery, plants and free-standing boxes are allowed until three weeks after May 31st. Thanks for your help, L.

A: Will the memorial planting be in the ground or in a container? How often will the site be visited for care and watering, etc? I'm sure you know that various memorial parks have different rules and regulations about planting in the ground- or even placing seasonal planters and pots on the ground (they say these seem to get in the way of the grass mowers) Bulbs won't work unless they can be allowed to grow foliage- but they could be dug up and replanted each year....but that could be a lot of work. Red geraniums are the long-time favorite, in the ground or in pots - either of which would do well in full sun, with little attention, but would die with the frost and would have to be replaced every year… But there is no perennial plant that I can think of which will bloom in late May - red or any other color for that matter - and then get mowed down every week and still rebloom the following year! -Sorry to be of so little help! Let me know what you decide to do. I’m sure others have this same problem.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
With weed preventatives, it’s all in the timing: Apply a weed preventative to lawns before the forsythia fades and drops…

May 16: Japanese quince, Azalea dying, Holly, Rhody dying, Rhody browning

Rhody browning
Q: I have a 20 year old rhododendron. Last year it bloomed beautiful. This year 3/4 of the bush the leaves have turned brown and
they curled too. Is the bush dying or will new leaves grow back? Thank you, M.H.

A: The past winter took a huge toll on plants especially on deciduous trees and shrubs. The cold weather, dry winds and lack of snow cover was a deadly combination. Your rhody may not be a total loss - wait a few weeks to determine it- Next year, try using an anti-desiccant/anti-transpirant spray on the tree to reduce water evaporation....this is what caused the very common leaf curl. WiltPruf is a common brand and is available at garden centers. But by now, leaves should have returned to their normal flat selves – unless they’re diseased. This season, water the tree regularly and mulch well beneath the tree to maintain moisture. Feed with an acid-based fertilizer, made for azaleas and rhodys, like MirAcid.

Quince
Q:I have a Japanese quince that has always flowered beautifully every spring. Unfortunately, I put it too close to my electric meter so I have had to cut it back quite a bit over the last 2 years. I must be cutting it back at the wrong time because I have not been getting those early peach flowers. When is the best time to cut it back, and can I cut back as much as I want? S.

A: Quince, like all spring-flowering shrubs, should be pruned immediately after blooming. If you have to prune it at any other time, (like to make room for your meter-reader,) you will lose blooms the following year. If radical pruning is necessary, it's best to do it carefully and gradually. A third of the shrub would be safe to cut - if you need to do more pruning than that, do it over the next few years - then keep at it, a little each year, to keep it at the size you and the meter-reader require.

Rhody dying
Q: I have a rhododendron bush in my yard that is over thirty years old and is about 10 feet high and 20 feet across. When I got back from Fla this year about 50% of it has partially brown and curled leaves. The blossoms are brown and probably dead also. It looks like an infection. It is concentrated in two areas. Anything I can do, it is an old friend.

A: It's very hard to tell whether or not the dying off is caused by a virus without seeing the tree. There is a virus known as dieback, which is controlled with mixture containing copper hydroxide, etc. Pretty toxic stuff! Apply very carefully according to directions. Pruning of diseased branches and burn or dispose of them carefully. But more than likely this year, you can blame it on the weather.

While you were in Florida, we had periods of bitterly cold, dry weather with high winds - without the protection of a snow cover. Depending on where your old friend rhody resides and how much protection it has from buildings, and other trees and shrubs, portions of the tree may have been killed by the freeze. But wait to remove the damaged sections. ...some of them may recover. Give it a lot of TLC this summer. Fertilize with an acid type fertilizer, mulch, and keep well-watered. And next year, if possible for such a large rhody, you could shield it with burlap, snow fencing and attempt to spray it with an antidessicant, 'though I don't think it is possible to accomplish this without professional help since it is such a large specimen. The large specimens of this tree are priceless - thank you for helping it along.

Azalea
Q: I planted a small (approx 1 foot high) azalea late last summer (Sept) and it’s not looking too well just now. I know they look 'awkward' at this time, but this one looks especially so .It was planted in the only spot available which was the north side of the house. It gets lots of morning sun until about 10 or 11am. The bush held on well all winter (its in a somewhat protected space), however, in the last month it has dropped all its leaves (which were brown and dry anyway) and doesn't seem to be showing any signs of budding, green or growth as yet. It looked like other azaleas in the neighborhood until about a month ago. Can it be saved? If so, what is needed at this time to bring it back to life? Pruning? Fertilizer? Moving it is probably not an option.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! A.

A: I'm afraid that I have to blame the weather - AGAIN! We're only beginning to see the losses. Your azalea was a new planting last fall - and should have been protected over the winter. Since it was a small plant, protection would be easy: An antidessicant should have been sprayed on the whole plant late in the fall, the plant should have been protected by burlap or some light covering - all this coming after a proper planting last fall with constant watering until the ground froze. There is nothing that will save the little azalea now - but don't be too anxious to replace it. Give it a few more weeks to see if it recovers - and in the meantime, keep watering! Sorry the news isn't better!

Holly
Q: A question about my female holly bush. Up to this spring it has always been very healthy, green and loaded with berries in the fall. Right now it is losing its leaves and has very pale green leaves that are still on the bush. The male plant about 20 feet away looks fine. ?????? Thanks, S.McC

A: I checked with a good friend who has grown beautiful holly for decades - he says the leaf drop, although common to some varieties, is certainly too early for the season, and the new, green leaves are also very early and could still be damaged by the cold. He attributes what appears to be a change in holly growing schedule to the lousy weather early in the winter and into spring - and doesn't think you need to be too worried yet! This winter has taken a terrible toll on all plants - and much of the damage is yet to be seen. The difference in the condition of the two bushes may simply be a matter of sheltering - a simple windbreak, formed by a building or other plants or fencing can protect from dry winds and frigid temperatures, which were mostly to blame when combined with the lack of snow protection last year. Next year, try spraying the trees with an antidesiccant/anti-transpirant like WiltPruf if their size allows it. Wait another month or so until you can see and assess the real damage accurately.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
How normal is leaf curl on rhodys? Very normal in cold weather!
Rhododendron leaves begin to cup and curl at the edges when temperatures drop to below 35 °F. At 25 °F, the leaves will be curled very tight and begin to droop. This problem is not caused by insects or disease but is a way the plant reduces water loss from its leaves during cold, dry, windy weather. Plants should recover when the weather warms again.

May 23: Sad tulips, Autumn moth larva, Clematis and begonias, Beans not sprouting

Kentucky Wonder pole beans
Q: I purchased 2 packs of Kentucky Wonder pole beans - 2 weeks ago. Heard or read somewhere to soak beans in water overnight - I did that and used them all in my garden. To date 2 weeks now not a single thing has come up out of the ground. What did I do wrong? I have purchased 2 more packs and intend to plant them as I always do - right out of the carton.

A: I can only guess – but perhaps they were soaked too long? (I soaked my castor oil beans this year, prior to planting – and forgot them for a few days! The seeds were falling apart and unusable by the time I went to plant them.). There is plenty of time to replant since Kentucky Wonders take about 65-70 to mature, plus about 10 days to germinate….and since the soil is getting warmer, they may germinate faster that expected. Do be sure the new seeds are well-watered immediately after planting and throughout the late season. You’ll have beans by the first of August, weather permitting!

Tuberous begonias and clematis
Q: I have two questions' I have tuberous begonias that I wintered in the basement in peat moss. How do you split the tubers safely for this years planting (containers)? The begonias have multiple tubers connected in one growth.. And -I planted two clematis in the yard area last fall. They seem to be of the wood stemmed variety. The leaves have browned out. Is there hope and should I cut back or not the plants. . Thank You S.C.

A: I'm sending you a reprint of a letter I answered last month on tuberous begonias - you're a little late in starting them indoors but better late than never -your flowers will just be a bit later this year. To divide any super-large tubers, cut them in pieces, like a potato, making sure that there is at least an eye or two per piece. Dust any cut tubers with a fungicide to prevent rot..... Of course, these newly-cut pieces will need time to recuperate and may not bloom this year. Unless the tubers are HUGE, why not use them whole and allow them to develop into a HUGE, beautiful plant? Or you could cut just half of the tubers this year, and the other half next year?

Different varieties of clematis are pruned in different ways at different times of the year. Could you possible identify what you have - or even try to describe the flower, and bloom time? I suspect it might be the large, purple, June/July blooming varieties called "Jackmanii". Whatever it is, you would probably be safe in slowly, over the next few weeks, pruning from the tip end of the vine back to the root end, being careful not to remove any live wood. (Wear gloves as older clematis wood splinters easily.) Don't worry - the worst thing that could happen is that there would be fewer flowers this year - it really is hard to kill clematis.

Winter moth larvae
Q: Is there anything I can do to prevent the terrible damage winter moth caterpillars do to my weeping cherry trees? Last year it was so bad that we almost lost one...it survived and re-leafed, but not without a struggle. I don't know if they could take another ravaging like last year's... Would appreciate any advice you can give. Thanks in advance.

A: Yes, the worms are here! They begin hatching when the temperatures hit 55 degrees - and that means now – but they have been slowed by the periods of frost and unseasonably cold weather. These ravenous caterpillar pests are the larva of the winter moths. The moth lays eggs in the late winter and the very hungry worms/larva hatch in spring. Isn’t nature wonderful! They hatch just in time to eat the new tender buds and foliage of any plant growing, although they seem to be particularly fond of our prized ornamentals, like your weeping cherries. An oil spray will help, but only if you get to the egg cases before they hatch - after that, you may want to wage an all out war with a pesticide that is specifically for this bug, and that contains Sevin or Orthene. Your trees should be small enough to use a garden sprayer - for taller trees affected, it might be necessary to have the trees professionally sprayed in order to do a though job of wetting the highest branches. Next year, try wrapping the tree trunks with a band of the sticky tape sold for this purpose - the sticky tape traps the larva as they move up and down the tree trunk. It is generally thought that a previously healthy tree can take about three to four consecutive years of caterpillar damage and defoliation before it gives up and dies - so get busy and save your weeping cherries this year! In the meantime, don't park your car under an infested tree - you can imagine what a mess the ravenous caterpillars drop and leave behind! The good news is the larva only lives for three to four weeks.....then it will be about time for Japanese beetles and red lily beetles!

Sad tulips
Q: My assorted types of tulips have been in the ground for four years, this year they have come up with curled leaves and ten flower heads out of sixty plants. Leaves are healthy, but heavily curled with no stems. Any idea of what could be wrong? Thank you so much. B.K., Plaistow, NH.

A: You didn't mention just what kinds of tulips you have planted - but I'm sure you know that many tulips are not good repeat bloomers. Darwin tulips bloom for many years and are often referred to as "perennial tulips” as do the botanical group, which naturalize - and some do well only for a few years, getting smaller and weaker every year. It is the general feeling in the tulip industry now that you can get more years of repeat bloom from a tulip bulb if you plant them at least six inches deep. And of course, the weather probably played a huge part in tulips growth and bloom this year - many were actually sprouting last January, and they were very confused when it suddenly turned cold again! Could there have been a change in the drainage in the planting area? Tulips need excellent drainage and rot easily. It might be worthwhile to dig and replant the bulbs this year with species tulips – they are good naturalizers.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
For a large, inexpensive container planting, consider using a few of your less- than- perfect houseplants into your pot or windowbox. Group them closely together and you can conceal a leafless stem, the top-heavy, one-sided growth, or the stringy vine. Be sure to group plants together that belong together, plants that require the same or similar light, growing conditions and watering – no cactus planted with impatiens! Try those old geraniums, a tall dracaena, some ivy or pathos, a spath or peace lily or even an old cyclamen with beautiful foliage but no flowers - add a few colorful, inexpensive annuals, like marigolds and impatiens, and ageratum and alyssum, to complete the job…This fall you may decide that your houseplants have done so well that you want to repot them again and bring them back into the house.

May 30: Italian veggies, Shamrock holly

Bulbs/ Italian veggies
Q: The last time I wrote to you your advices were so good that my hoya is beautiful and still alive. So I try again and I am sure you can help me this time too. Before spring I planted a few bulbs in a clay pot leaving them outside covered with a heavy plastic sheet to keep them moist and protect them from the rain. Now I can see them out of the soil and I was thinking to remove them from the pot and put them in the ground or do I have to wait a little longer? If I put them in the ground do I have to use a fertilizer? And if it is yes, can you suggest me which one I could use? For the indoor plants also is it time to change the soil and fertilize them or is it not necessary?

For the garden plants, tomatoes, basil, arugula, radicchio, when is it time to put them outside? The tomato plants are 3” tall but the basil is a little short the arugula was so beautiful but now it is going to die and I don’t understand why. I put all my questions in at once and want to thank you for the time you’ll spend to read my letter and for the valuable suggestions you are going to give me

A: The bulbs you grew in pot were correctly grown, outdoors in cold weather with cover to give them the required weeks of chilling a bulb requires to bloom – now planting them outdoors will be easy! Since they are used to the cold, they can be planted anytime now that you want to get your hands into the cold soil! If you need to separate the bulbs, do it very gently. The easy way would be to dig a hole about 6-8 inches deep (I assume there might be some tulips in the pot, so they would need this depth – otherwise, a shallower hole would be all you need) Carefully remove the pot, and plant the whole clump of bulbs. You should have flowers in a week or so and again in future years. Don’t worry about adding any new soil - if you planted them in garden soil or potting soil last fall, they’ve been well-nourished – if you planted them in sand, you may have trouble getting them to bloom next year….good garden soil is all they need now.

For fertilizer, a little bone meal could be sprinkled around the ground surface as the tops die down, later in the summer….or you could buy a small bag of bulb food (and use the rest of it on any other bulbs you might have around the yard)

Tomato plants are cold sensitive – I don’t put mine out until I put my tropical houseplants outside, which is after I’m sure the night temperatures are going to constantly remain over 50 degrees – and that’s NOT ‘til at least the end of the month…years ago, .many gardeners wouldn’t even dare to plant tender plants until Memorial Day…..

Your basil also loves warmth – if it's already in the ground and it doesn’t warm up soon, you may want to cover it – or replant. This time, plant it about the same time as the tomatoes.

The arugula is a bit of a mystery – the cool weather suits these greens and they need plenty of water and are relatively pest free – could the roots have rotted with the excess amount of rain or have you seen any signs of bugs? Did you start the seed indoors then transplant?

Shamrock Holly
Q: I have a patio surrounded by 12 Shamrock hollies, Ilex glabra 'Shamrock'. I put them in the ground in April of 2006. They looked fine going into the winter; unfortunately coming out, 5 of them, one at the corner and then the next two in each direction seem to be dead - they are brown and their leaves drop when you handle them. Each consecutive plant from the dead ones has some dying branches although they look better the farther away from the corner plant you get. Interestingly I visited with a friend in Brookline who seemed to have the same thing going on in a hedge of these same plants. Was this a bad winter and all we can do is take them out and start again? Can these plants be saved? Thank you, L.

A: The winter weather was certainly a factor in you holly browning - this thornless holly was a good choice for around your patio because of the maximum height of 4-5 feet - but it also needs to be in a very damp area - or else you need to water through the growing season. Also known as “inkberry” this smaller variety makes a low hedge or screen I our climate. This is normally an evergreen holly, but when the temperatures drop below 0 degrees, leaves will brown and fall. Although you say these hollies were planted last spring, they still should have been treated as "new" plantings for the first year or two - that means extra watering, maybe some winter protection unless they are in a well-sheltered area, and an antidesiccant (WiltPruf is the popular brand) sprayed on the leaves each year, early in winter. Before you give up the plants, be sure they are truly dead - don't just rely on seeing brown leaves. Prune if there is no sign of life - and then decide whether to replace some of the hollies. Continue to treat the little bushes you planted last spring as "new" plantings - and protect them next winter.....and water them well all through the growing season, up until the ground freezes. I hope you planted a few male hollies - you'll need them for berry production - and the birds do want the "inky" berries these bushes produce!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
At last! Houseplants can go out for their annual summer vacation in the garden, on the terrace or patio or deck – or on the front steps. Make sure that nighttime temperatures are reliably at fifty degrees – your plants are tropicals, and New England certainly isn’t tropical! The only plants you may not want to put outdoors are the very fragile ones such as African violets – but they would like a breezy porch. Do it gradually – any plant that spent the winter indoors will have to be slowly acclimated to outdoor light and cooler temperatures. Start out gradually – twenty minutes the first day, a little longer the next. If you don’t have time for this plant moving, place the sun lovers and the shade lovers under a shady leafed tree – then later, move the sun lovers into more sun. Don’t give them an early case of sunburn! Choose a spot that is close to your water source – it’s no fun to carry a watering can around! Watch for bugs – they love to attack delicious, tender, home grown houseplants. Augment summer showers with a bath from the hose – it will raise the humidity, and clean the plant, too. Another huge advantage of being outdoors is being able to spray plants with water to rid them of bugs. Sometimes a spray of cold water from the hose is all that will be needed. But if you must use chemical insecticides, it’s a lot safer to use them when you’re outside. Think of how easy it will be to repot that favorite large plant outdoors! Spill some soil, or dump some water – just sweep or hose it away! Summer is here! I love summer!