North Shore Gardener September 2007

Yellow Margaritas

Photo: FCunningham

September 5, 2007: Forsythia and iris, Garden pests, Coyote urine attracting coyotes?!!!, Clivia

Is coyote urine attracting coyotes?!!!
Had a very thoughtful letter from a reader who posed a very interesting question:

If you use coyote urine as a pest deterrent in the garden, couldn’t you be repelling pesky smaller animals – but at the same time, be ATTRACTING coyotes?

I was horrified! I’ve been suggesting the use of coyote, as available in many commercial products such as Shake-Away for years – so I called the experts at ShakeAway and spoke to Ron Boyce, a Research and Development Scientist, at Shake-Away Inc. He told me that they have sold 1000 and 1000's of the product containing animal urine and never had a complaint. He said that there is no possibility that you would be attracting these large predators. Coyotes DO exist in our areas –but if you are using a urine –based product, it won’t attract more coyotes. They will instead be alarmed by the smell and leave because they are territorial animals – and they would naturally avoid a garden if they think another coyote might already own the territory.

So we can continue to safely use these products – and we’ve all learned a bit of coyote psychology and behavior this week!

E-mail Mr. Boyce if you have further questions about Shake-Away products: rjboyce@frontiernet.net

Seeds from yellow clivia
Q: One of my new yellow clivias has produced two big seedpods (about 1/2" big) on it after it flowered. They didn't fall off like all the others did. So how long do I keep the seedpods on the plant, & when will I know they are ready to come off? Also, when should I then plant them, and will they be yellow also? Thanks very much, D.M.

A: The yellow clivia is still considered unusual – and very beautiful! If it was accidentally or purposely pollinated with another known yellow, you should get at least some yellow plants. But if you had another orange/red clivia blooming nearby, and there were insects or even a furry cat's tail brushing by, it's anyone's guess!

Seeds take a long time to mature on the plant - usually six months to a year or more. When ripe, they will be dry and fall off into your hand. Remove any of the thin, reddish membrane that remains and dry for a few more days. Plant in a tray of good sterile soil mix with good drainage, barely covering the seed - and keep warm. They may take a month or more to germinate, and it will take about two years for them to be large enough to pot up individually. Have patience!

Seeds for different varieties and colors of clivia are sometimes available for sale on the internet as well as in the special interest catalogs for about $3-$6 a piece!!!

Seed and plant division are the only ways to propagate a clivia and guarantee true color. It can't be done by tissue culture (which is like cloning, and which produces an exact copy of the parent), which is one of the reasons the new colors are so expensive - that, and the time it takes the plant to bloom from seed. It takes five or six YEARS from seed to bloom, and then you can finally see if the color is true!!!!

For gardener's who have no intentions of growing the seed, we recommend removing the seed pod - making seed does take a lot of strength from the plant and might affect the following year's bloom.

Help – Iris and forsythia
Q: This past week I was cutting back my irises and found the bulbs coming out of the ground. What should I do? Replant, cover over with soil, or just leave alone.

My forsythia - I want to train them into a hedge, is this a good time to prune them?

D.V.

A: I assume these are bearded iris:

If your iris hasn't been divided for a few years, now might be the time to do it. But if they're blooming well, you can leave them for another year or two - add a cover of compost or topsoil to just cover the roots, about an 1/2 iinch or so - you don't want to bury them too deeply, just add enough to cover. Water thoroughly when finished.

Forsythia -Anything you prune now will take away from next season's bloom. The best time to prune forsythias (or any spring blooming shrub) is immediately after it blooms - but if you have to prune now, go head - it won't hurt the plant, but expect fewer blooms next spring.

Garden pests
Q: I read your column all the time and wondered if you could help me with a terrible problem with garden pests. I just have flowers (no veggies) but I have chipmunks, squirrels, RABBITS and WOODCHUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Your column suggested ShakeAway, is there anything else? Do you know if moth balls work? J.T.

A: ShakeAway is one of the best repellant (NOT POISONING) products for the home gardener - all repellants have to be constantly re-applied after rain or sprinkling. Is there some reason why you can't use it? Many gardeners have had very good result with fox or coyote urine (sold at Agway and other garden centers).....wash your hands and clothing if you spill even a drop or your house pets will also be repelled. We have had reports of both good and poor results repelling animal pests when using mothballs – try it, but do not use them in areas where a toddler or pet might mistake a mothball for candy..... I have had excellent results with woodchucks by locating all of the multiple burrows and dumping well-used cat litter and water down the burrows - the smell causes them to move on!!! Several gardeners have also successfully used ammonia-soaked rags placed down the burrow, but it depends where the burrows are located. Good luck! And let me know what happens!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Rhubarb season is officially over. After the first frost, cut any remaining stalks and leaves and put them into the compost. The remaining stems are too tough to use now – and you don’t want the rhubarb to go to seed. It’s always a question: Can the toxic rhubarb leaves be composted? The answer is yes – the small percent of oxalic acid present will disappear by spring, the time it takes the leaves to rot and compost. You can add a layer of manure to the rhubarb bed, then mulch with a 3-5 inch layer of compost, or shredded leaves or hay – not much to ask for our favorite perennial vegetable.

September 12, 2007 : Aphids, Basil, Dahlias, Goutweed explanation

Basil
Q: I always enjoy reading your column in the Salem News on Wednesdays and have gotten some great information from it. This summer I planted a few basil plants in a large pot on my deck. The plants have been doing great and we have really been enjoying the basil in salads, etc. However the last couple of times I used the basil it seemed overly strong, even bitter. I did fertilize once a few weeks ago. Could that be the problem or are the plants just getting old? Thanks for your help, L.L., Beverly MA

A: Your basil is showing signs of age! As the plant gets older, it may be getting bitter. But it's also the time that your basil is mature enough to have bloomed - and basil does get bitter when it blooms. You may, in the future, extend the season by removing the buds as soon as they're visible and not allowing the basil to bloom - just snip off the whole stalk, and dry it for potpourri, if you want. I doubt that the fertilizer you mentioned had anything to do with the bitter taste, unless you used something exotic! Take cuttings and start some new tender plants to grow on a sunny windowsill this winter. Start another set next spring to plant outdoors next summer. And keep tasting!

Dahlias
Q: I enjoy your column very much and look forward to it every week. Now I have something important to ask you myself! This is about digging dahlia tubers early. I want to dig up some tubers in Oct. for a friend who's coming from out of town. Is this OK since it's before the first frost? How much foliage should be left on? Another question is about the flowers. Some of the flowers on my tall dahlias face downwards and away from the sun, like shy girls looking down at their feet! Am I doing something wrong? Thanks for any help you can provide. J.M.

A: How nice of you to share your dahlias with your friend! The reason, as you know, to dig them after a frost kills the tops is to force the sugars and starches back down the stem and into the tuber, which promotes the next season's growth. If you have to dig them early: I would leave as much of the stem on the tuber as you can and have your friend allow the rest to dry naturally before removing and storing the tubers for the winter, if this is possible (If she's flying, I can just see her going through security with the bundle of wilted stems and drying tubers all wrapped in newspaper and plastic garbage bags - hopefully, your friend is traveling by car!) Can't imagine why the dahlias are looking downward - unless there is something lacking in the soil, like calcium which gives the stem strength - I suggest planting in another area next year, having a soil test, or both! If you have grown dahlias in the same spot for years, you might have depleted the soil of nutrients.

Little “red things” on plants
Q: I noticed little red "things" about 1/8 inch in length on the stems of my heliopsis; I sprayed with soapy water & they did fall off; flowers looked OK. Do you know what they are & should I pull the plants up; this was only in two gardens; the other three were ok. Thanks, A.K.

A: I think you've got aphids! Not all aphids are green - they come in Technicolor. Aphids can be green, black, brown, red, pink, or other colors - but they all do the same thing: they bite into the plant and suck the juices. They multiply like crazy in this warm, humid weather so you'll have to be very persistent to eradicate them completely. You said the soap spray has worked - spray again, and again at one week to ten day intervals until frost. (Don't forget the undersides of leaves, too – knock them off! Every one!) After a frost, you will finally be rid of these pests, unless you carry them into the house on a plant. A cold water spray is also very effective - be sure to watch the other flower beds – aphid of any color spread fast!!

Like most sucking bugs, they love tender new shoots of almost anything - so don't be too complacent - spray anything that even looks like an aphid, just to be sure! You can't go wrong with the mild soap spray and/or a cold water spray-----

Explanation of goutweed
From a reader:

“I have to say what a huge disappointment it is to read that you have recommended the planting of goutweed. Goutweed is on the state's list of prohibited plants. Importation of this plant was prohibited over a year ago and a propagation ban takes effect in 2009. After the listed 'propagation ban' date; the sale, trade, purchase, distribution and related activities for that plant are prohibited. http://www.mass.gov/agr/farmproducts/proposed_prohibited_plant_list_v12-12-05.htm

The Plant Conservation Alliance lists invasive plants infesting natural areas of the United States and says "Goutweed is an aggressive invasive plant that forms dense patches, displaces native species, and greatly reduces species diversity in the ground layer. Goutweed patches inhibit the establishment of conifers and other native tree species as well. http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/fact/aepo1.htm

Please do not promote the planting of illegal invasive alien species.”

Sincerely,
Steven Cram
Ipswich, MA

A: Thank you for your kind note! You "sort of" got me on goutweed!

The plant is still for sale for a limited time - and being a great fan of variegated goutweed after a neighbor gave it to me YEARS ago - and quite, frankly, I have never even had it grow well for me as a ground cover in difficult areas, I did recommend it! But with caution!! We do watch alien/invasive plants carefully - for instance, our readers' have been very serious about eradication and control of many old favorites over the years such as bittersweet, loostrife, honeysuckle, etc.Thank you for taking the time to notice - and write! We'll be making an explanation to readers' very soon.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Sad, but true! It’s about time to start planning to take tender plants in for the winter. Consider bringing houseplants indoors – Make room! Find saucers! Wash windows! Start acclimating them to lower light levels right now – give them a hint of what indoor light levels are going to be like: Move tropicals into semi shade – no matter how sunny your house is inside, it’s not going to be as sunny as your garden - Bring all plants that you wish to save from freezing inside before the average night temperature falls below 50 degrees – and preferably before heat goes on in house- heated air is dry air. I know it’s a temptation to leave the plants out to enjoy the last days of summer – but if you do, be prepared to haul them in when the evening forecast shows night temperatures are dropping.

Sept 19, 2007: Chipmunks strangled in netting, Azaleas plus, Jap willow, Rose, More mullein!, Morning glories

Morning glories
Q: This past spring we planted, as usual, some morning glory vines (the old fashioned blue kind) bought from a reputable garden center. Two of the four vines are doing very well -- lots of flowers, lots of leaves. The other two vines, however, which we planted where we always plant morning glory, did terrible! Oh, they have plenty of flowers, but have hardly any leaves. We always plant morning glory in this spot and for the past two years they've done wonderfully. What happened this year?! I don't believe we did anything different... except the area is now being shared with hollyhocks (which did spendidly). A neighbor came by without our asking and graciously sprayed the hollyhocks with some kind of something to encourage them to bloom; could this have affected this morning glory vines? Also, this same area received a bit of horse manure last fall. We've never used manure on the area before. My husband says the area needs MORE manure as the soil seems so awful. Why do our morning glories in this one spot have no leaves? Any ideas? Thank you, K.and B. D.,Rockport, MA

A: A tough question about such a simple plant! (You don't mention any insect damage.....)

Morning glories grow in the worst soil, with little moisture once they’ve sprouted - so I'm guessing that it wasn't the unknown spray the neighbor spritzed the hollyhocks with – But it might have been the addition of manure in the area - morning glories simply don't need extra food. No leaves? But plenty of flowers? 'Tis a mystery! Next year, try planting in a different area - And never use fresh manure on a growing garden- pile it aside and let it compost for a winter, then spread it. Or apply it in the winter, after the beds are cleared and let it compost right on the spot - but not around the morning glory's area!

Another "weed" found!
Q: Last year I sent you some pictures of an unknown "weed" in my garden and you were kind enough to answer me and let me know what it was...a Great Mullein (by the way, I have another one, just not as tall, this year.) Anyway, I have attached a couple of pictures of another "weed" that has appeared this year - Can you tell me what it is? A few people have commented how pretty it is, we just don't know what it's called. As with the mullein it has "fuzz" covering the leaves, but is compact and does not have the center stalk. Could it be related? E.R.

A: You're a very good photographer - the pictures are beautiful, as well as being very helpful!

Guess what you've got?? It's an immature Great Mullein! The rosette of beautiful, soft grey leaves appears the first year; the flower spike appears the second year. No wonder the plant looked so familiar to you!! Stand back! Make room! It will reach full height next year!

Chipmunks strangled in netting
Q: I have two young blueberry bushes that produced nicely. But, is there anything I can use besides bird netting to keep the birds & critters off them? Last year, I found two little chipmunks tangled up in the netting so tight, they were dead. I would like to avoid that again if possible.

A: Being an animal lover, I applauded you investigating a more kind and gentle method of keeping the critters away-

Have you tried a repellant called "ShakeAway for Small Critters"? You can buy it at most garden centers and you sprinkle it around the plants you're protecting. It does have to be re-applied after rain or sprinkling. Or try some fox/coyote urine, available at Agway and limited garden centers.

Climber not blooming
Q: A lovely red climbing rose, on trellis, is not producing. Must they have full day of sun? It gets at least half of the day and more. There are no black spots but a few leaves have holes eaten in them. Can't figure this one out, can you? Thanks again for your publication. B.N.

A: Your climbing rose is probably not getting the best sun - consider transplanting to a full sun location. How long has the plant been with you? It does take a few years to get settled and bloom well... Fertilize this season with a rose fertilizer. The holes are caused by some sort of a bug - watch more carefully to try to identify, and spray with a rose spray. I don't like to recommend spraying without knowing just what the problem is - but if you can't find the bug, an all-purpose spay or dust, used according to directions, will probably eliminate the problem.

Azaleas
Q: I have five white azaleas which were put in last year and continued to bloom last year. This year just the foliage. Is more sunlight required? They only get partial sun in the current location.

A: The non-blooming azaleas could have any one - or more - of several problems - the weather last spring, of course - it ruined many plants.
Other than that:
Did you prune improperly last year? Azaleas should be pruned IMMEDIATELY after bloom in the spring, if needed....
Did you apply a fertilizer containing too much nitrogen? -That would include fertilizers used on your lawn areas near the azaleas. Most of the spring "green-up" grass fertilizers are very high in nitrogen, which produces beautiful foliage but very few flowers! If you fertilized too late in the summer, new growth would be killed off during the early winter....
Did the plants dry out? Azaleas that dry out don't bloom well – mulch heavily around, but not touching, the base of plants....
Are they in excessive shade? Azaleas don't like HOT sun but do require sun to bloom. Trees grow bigger, fences and buildings are built - and it results in more shade for the plants...and excessive shade produces nice foliage and fewer or no flowers...

Japanese Willows
Q: Also I have Japanese Willows, do they like sun? How large do they grow and do they produce a flower?

A: Your Japanese willow, depending on the variety, will grow about 24 inches to several feet high. You may see catkins, much like a pussywillow. They’re very attractive plants! One called "Flamingo"" has particularly colorful foliage, which shades from green to white and pink.

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………

Get bulb orders in early to get the best selection! It’s far too early to plant – but like seed orders in the spring, the bulb orders sell out the favorites early! Need some ideas? Look for small bulbs to fill a spot in a garden – plant enough to allow some for cutting. Plant a few new bulbs: some parrot tulips, like your grandmother had in her garden, would be beautiful! Naturalize a garden or lawn area: Plant 100 tiny crocus bulbs this year and watch them grow into 150 next year, and maybe 300 the next………Small bulbs are cheap!

Sept 26, 2007 : Peonies and powdery mildew, End of season caterpillars, Lilac question, Growing Oriental lily seed

Lily seeds
Q: I have cross pollinated oriental lilies. The pods are large. Do the seeds need chilling or special treatment to germinate? A.L.H.

A: Oriental lilies can be propagated from seed by a method known as delayed hypogeal germination. The seeds need 3 months of warm weather(about 70 degrees) then 3 months of cold (not freezing, 35-40 degrees).....In summer, you could have done this outdoors, but at this time of the year, you will have to simulate these temperatures by warming seeds on top of the refrigerator, or water heater and cooling in the refrigerator.
During the warm period, a small root and a small bulb appear. After the cold period, a leaf will appear and the tiny plants can be repotted.
It can take 18 months or even longer for germination to begin, so don't give up! Good luck - and be sure to let me know what you get when the lilies finally bloom! Which Oriental lilies did you cross-pollinate?

Lilac question
Q: I've recently opened a business doing gardening for people and had a question about transplanting a lilac and a rhododendron. They both have only been in the ground for one year and my client wants to move them to another part of the yard. My first inclination was to wait until spring so they both get better established before shocking the roots. I was hoping you could advise on the best time to move both of these plants.

When I do move plants, I always dig a larger hole than the root ball and put in good, organic compost, set the root ball in, water thoroughly and then fill the remaining hole with organic soil. Is this what you'd recommend for these two plants?

L.F., Salem, MA

A: Either is acceptable - but I think I might do it now as long as your client is willing to water them properly until the ground freezes - and uses some extra protection for the rhody this first year, including an antidessecant (antitranspirant) to prevent the leaves from drying out (just in case we have a dry winter again!)

Your preparation of the planting areas sounds perfect! Just make sure the client waters regularly, whether you do the transplanting in the spring or fall!

End- of- season caterpillars
Q: I enjoy reading your column every week and often follow your advice which I find very helpful. I've got a question for you. Every year I plant lots of pots of annuals on my deck - they always look lovely and do well until the end of August when the caterpillars start munching on them. They especially love the petunias and this year they've even gotten onto my tomato plants. I've tried a flower spray that's supposed to kill caterpillars but it doesn't work all that well. I don't really want to spray pesticides on the tomatoes either. What can I do to get rid of these pests?The buggers who are even hijacking their way into my house on my cut flowers!

Thank you,N.

A: Don't give up quite yet! The clue to making that commercial spray work is to use it repeatedly - you kill one generation and a few of his friends, but more eggs are laid - and his friends find you plants, if you don't spray repeatedly - every week ought to do it. On the more sturdy plants, you can also dislodge bugs with a spray of cold water....

There are pesticides make expressly for tomatoes on the market - see your garden center, but these will be pesticides....

Of course, in a couple of weeks, the nights will be getting colder - and that will help, too.

We don't want caterpillars in your house!

-A thought: If you can, cut the flowers and put them in a pail of water OUTDOORS overnight - this is especially effective to rid peonies of ants - and might work for other bugs, too!

Peonies and powdery mildew
Q: I look forward to your column every week in the Eagle Tribune and enjoy it very much. Hopefully, you will be able to help me correct the problem going on with my peonies.

The tubers were transplanted three years ago from our previous home, and this summer they were spectacular and were covered with lots of large blossoms. Last summer one of the plants developed a white powder all over the leaves. I thought it was just a fluke because none of my other plants were affected. This summer all three of my peony plants were covered with it. Thinking it might be some kind of a fungus or mildew, I sprayed the plants with a 50/50 mixture of water and vinegar. (I hate to use chemicals because of the many hummingbirds, bees and birds that visit my garden.) It removed some of the white powder, but for the most part it is still all over the leaves. When I water the plants, I use a hard spray and try to wash it off. Some came off, but it is still there. I find it strange that none of the other flowering plants in my garden are affected by this coating, just the peonies.

My question is, if I cut the plants down to about 4 inches since the blooming season is over, do you think that will take care of the problem so it won't return next season? I don't leave the cuttings on the ground, I remove them to a brush area. Will this powder kill my peonies? They seem to be doing just fine otherwise and show no signs of disease or insects other than the powder.

What would you suggest that would be a good, natural, environmentally safe spray to use?

Thanks for your advice, I'll look forward to hearing what the solution might be.

Sincerely,

D.B.

Hampstead, NH

A: Your peonies have white powdery mildew. You see this mildew most often on lilacs and phlox as well as peonies in the late summer. A horticultural oil or neem oil can be used to try to control it - but treatment should be used before the mildew is visible and spraying is repeated every two-three weeks - so save this tip for next year!

But don't fear - although it's rather unsightly, the fungus doesn't damage the plant.

Do follow your method of cleaning up in the fall - don't cut the leaves until after a frost puts them down and then destroy them!

I have had some luck controlling white powdery mildew on phlox by using a mixture of baking soda and water and spraying all sides of the plant - it is said it changes the acid/alkali balance of the leaf surface and makes the plants less hospitable to the fungus.

Be sure the air circulation is good around your peonies - this can be one of the reasons you are seeing the mildew.....that, and the weather!

This week’s dirt…………………………………………………………
Do you ever wonder exactly what the weather forecaster is talking about when her talks about “a freeze”? Here’s what you need to know: Freeze temperatures based on their effect on your plants – these are the commonly accepted categories. Although it still depends on how long the freeze lasts, and the humidity level, how tender the plant it, this is some measure for gardeners:

Light freeze: 29 degrees F to 32 degrees F -- tender plants killed, with little destructive effect on other vegetation.

Moderate freeze: 25 degrees F to 28 degrees F -- widely destructive effect on most vegetation, with heavy damage to fruit blossoms and tender and semi-hardy plants.

Severe freeze: 24 degrees F and colder -- damage to most plants.

Cold temperatures tend to “pool” in low areas – that’s why there is often a freeze in the valleys. But frost can also “pool” in low areas of your lawn and garden. So plant accordingly!